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Factory lsd and disc brakes??

Not that it can't be done with the 8"...but the ford axle has it all and you can find them for days.

 

in the highway vid is that an app or something on a phone that was displaying the speed? I like that might need to check into it.

 

I considered the 8 inch but I also wanted disc brakes. I could have fabbed up a conversion using previa brakes and then paid a local shop $300 to put a supra lsd in the 8" pumpkin. I would have over $600 invested in the setup and alot of time.

I'll have around $350 total in this rear end and it will look like this from the rear.

You cant get a toyota rear to look like that. Yeah, it's cosmetic but it looks so cool.
I can also get this bolt on Aerospace rear street brake kit for $650 for more coolness.

Yeah, it's the Vidometer App. Works great but be careful. Could be used as incriminating evidence

 

What axle housing mods are required for fitment?

 

Not sure of all mods yet but I will atleast have too:
1) Cut off the existing shock mounts from the housing.
2) Figure out how to adapt the ford brake lines to the import brake lines.
3) weld on spring perch pads.
4) Weld on mounts for my rear sway bar.
5) buy the the toyota drive shaft to ford pinion yoke u-joint conversion kit.

It will be pretty easy.

 

I know the project has progressed way past this point but yotarip did you use the whole 1uz 5 spd conversion kit? Or did you piece it all together and just buy the adapter plate?

 

For this truck I purchased the complete swap kit from toyotav8.com. I am very happy with the kit. It's top notch and fits perfectly. For my next swap ( 1992 cressida with 1uz/w58) I only bought their bellhousing adapter plate and the slave cylinder mount plate I bought the braided lines and fittings from speedway motors.com. Bought the 2001 camaro ls1 hydraulic slave cylinder from a local parts store. I bought the 1991 v6 4Runner flywheel for $45 new and had a local machine shop work it to specs for $100. This saved me a couple hundred bucks.

If you decide to piece a kit together, I highly suggest that you get the adapter plate / slave cylinder mount from toyotav8.com. They are perfect.

 

I really appreciate the info. I kinda wanted to piece together my own kit but im also smart enough to know good quality when I see it. I had dug through a few threads and couldnt seem to figure out what parts came from what vehicles. I found a local guy parting out a 91 ls400 and he only wants 300 bucks for the engine, harness and computer.

 

That's a fair price for these motors. Open up the ecu and check for brown/black residue under the cylindrical capacitors in the brown jackets.This will cause running issues with the motor which is a common problem with the first gen 1uz. You may have to search around for a good ecu if it's bad. Only the 89-92 ls400 ecu's are compatible with the 91 ls400.

 

This car runs however I can not drive it so its drivability is unknown. The car was T boned on passenger side. The car only has 127 thousand miles. Is there a better year you recommend I look for so I run into issues later with parts. All I really know about the engines is 95 and newer have weaker internals but are still great engines.

 

The 89-94 have the strongest rods and are the easiest to wire up. 89-92 through less cel codes.
You should get the 91.

 

What are you running for a fuel pump? Thanks again for the info man its greatly appreciated.

 

I'm running an inline fuel pump from a turbo Volvo 740. Been working fine.

 

What specs did you have to work it to?
Trying to find information on my end to do the 370Z 6spd has been quite the headache.

 

I'll post it up when I get home. Are you trying to mount the 6 speed to the 1uz?

 

Yup, 370Z JK04C to be exact. Thanks brotha.
Hard to find any solid information about these adapters, even Google is no help sometimes.

 

Ironnam,

The flywheel to use is from the 3.0 v6 4runners, t100's ect. Since the flywheels are made by different manufactures and can have diferent tolerances, I'll tell you what the final measurements should be and not how much material you need to remove.

When you test mount the flywheel on the 1uz, you will notice how far the ring gear is away from the starter gear. You will have to machine the mounting hub on the flywheel down to 0.50 inches. This is measured from the front hub (where the flywheel bolt shoulders touch the front, to the rear of the hub.

At this point, material on the flywheel just behind the ring gear will hit girdles / webing on the block. This section of the flywheel should be machined down to 1.224 inches. Ofcourse remove the material from the backside of the flywheel. You can remove more if you want to lighten it more but talk to the machinist.


Now the bolt pattern needs to be slightly modified. Hopefully you kept the little spacer plate thats found between the original flexpate and crank on the 1uz. Let the machine shop use it as a template to modify/slot the existing bolt holes in the flywheel to match the 1uz.

 

What's the difference between those and the stock ones?

 

I see you have LA awesome cleaner on the hood..that stuff is cheap and will eat through the earth lol. I left a bottle on my boat and it leaked out and ate the paint all the way to the metal...its...well, awesome!

 

Well the most obvious difference is the clear and amber lense but the jdm lights also have recepticals for two bulbs. One in the amber section and one in the clear section. So you can move the blinkers up to the corner light if you what.

Yeah, I love the stuff. I also had a bad experience though. One hot summer i was cleaning the carpet with the stuff in my LS400 ( FLAWLESS Leather seats). I laid the spray bottle in the driverseat and went inside to eat. The heat from the sun pressurized the bottle and cause the awsome sauce to leak out of the nozzle onto the seat. That stuff ate through the leather finish on my perfect seat all the way the hide! I was pissed!!
It's a great cleaner/ degreaser for $1.00 a bottle.