Im currently doing a 2.5 inch roof chop on my 4 door then next will be a bd as close to the doors without the wheels sticking thru the hood

 

Yep found it in the woods behind a garage that never fixed it. Story is a kid brought it in with spun bearings and when he found out how much it was going to be to fix it he just gave the garage the keys and the title. That was in 1997. I found it while visiting the garage for my job and walked behind just bein nosey..LOL. The garage owner hauled it back there to make room for more heaps and used it for storing parts (in the bed). I made him a deal and hauled it home....got more pics

 

^FIXABLE. is it broke? lol

 

Ya.. the main bearings are shot and it knocks loudly. I'm looking to flip the ball joints on my red truck next weekend and maybe to shim the back. Has anyone on here made shims with their blocks ? I posted pics a while back of my red truck but I dont like the stance as much as I did before...

 

Here's what i got for now.

 

no bumpstops, 15 inch rims 195/50 series tires, 3 inch steel block, middle leaf removed, and torsions cranked, empty gas tank

 

don't know if I posted mine in here.

 

anyone regret taking out leafs because of the ride? any excessive inner tire wearon the front form cranking the torsions? i'm getting ready to drop my 84

 

i never got any camber wear on mine...... still dont being dropped as far as i am...... if you have a very small series tire like 45 series or smaller, you may start to notice since the smaller the sidewall the less flex the tires will have therefore the more it will tend to ride on the inner side of the tire entirely.

 

i was actually planning to run a 225/45 r17. and all my tires wear on the inside now. should i get it aligned first?

 

get a good alighnment....... these trucks rarely get camber wear from a drop..... usually wear on the inside for only a couple reasons.....

1- bad alighnment.
2- bad strut rod bushings.
3- upper arm shims fell out and you have camber slop (but you'd immediately notice that)

 

its been this way ever since i got the truck 2 years ago. the rear is the same way. i dont do as much driving on windy roads as i used to. i think thats why it started to show

 

the correct way to drop a truck is drop spindles, because the truck is alligned at stock height wen u rank torsons your changing the geometry of the control arms, an the control arms will either push or pull the tire into changning its camber adjustment. but ofcourse alot of ppo dont have mone for drop spindles so we just crank torsions, craking torsions to begin with is an incorrect way of DROPPING a vehicle.

 

a good shim wouldbe to use an old leaf spring and cut it to fit the block..thats what i did..

 

i know this, i'm just doing it for now til i can afford the drop spindles

 

the "right way" is a matter of opinion but there is a "preffered way".

cant judge the low-buck budget guys for tryin to add a little style without breaking the bank.

another easy gain would be to do the ball joint flip..... that will net you another inch.....

 

i might do that when i have to replace my balljoints. how is it done though? just put them in upside down?

 

you essentially place the lower ball join on top of the lower a-arm instead of under it. take not on the position of it...... same goes for the upper ball joint


Shot with X400,D580Z,C460Z at 2009-12-08

 

those lower control arms look sick!

 

where did you buy the lower control arms? DJM? is that on your 80's? how much?