. . .

I sure hope it helps, the basic rule of thumb I learned along time ago, is start with the basics ( hence, plugs, wires, rotor, cap, ignitor ) and go from there. Wishing you best of luck !

L o w N l o u d

 

cap rotors plugs and wires didnt do it. so im guessing its definitely the carb. hope to have somone look at it this week. I can't even get the damn thing off though. one bolt broke, so it wont tighten down, and one bolt just loosens and doesnt come out but will tighten back down i believe and the other i just plain can't get out. lovely.

 

sorry . . .

Bummer, sorry to hear about your continuing hard luck, ever think about toyota certified dealership just as a stress reducing reliever ? Just a thought !

L o w N l o u d

 

yah, for a 98 tacoma. not this piece. i have 1700 to my name and cant make up my mind if this trucks worth dropping the money into it.

 

ever thought of . . .

It all up to you, but personally, Ide H8 to just give up considering all the time that you have put into this truck already. Ide inquire if anything, never hurts, but, deciding is totally up 2 U !

L o w N l o u d

 

yah, i mean id hate to just stop, but 3-400 on a carb/intake setup, verses ~1000 on a v8 swap is a little obvious which way to go when the final product you want a v8. i dont know.

 

How about buying a used carb from another toyota owner that works, even a stock one !

L o w N l o u d

 

"Some men you just can't reach"

 

. i get what you guys are saying, but obviously can't figure out how to go about doing them properly, or even find a way to go about it on another route. i have called a friends mechanic to come wednesday and he seems to think he can fix it, or get it where i can fix it and he can come back to tune the thing.

if the truck would even run, i would tune it. it wont run long enough to make it around the hood to touch the carb. try taking it off, the things snap and wont even come out of the hole. and one is frozen.........even after many sprays of pb blaster and purple power and wd40 and gasoline as well. ive tried everything i can to break the bolt loose. not going to happen with what i have.

as for just buying a carb, dropping 3-400 on a setup just isn't logical to me, but logic may be out the window at this point if the mechanic can't get the stocker loose.

 

ohhh...I'm so e-ffended....

Worthless crap, but you get what I'm saying...hmmm
...at least your listening now and having a mechanic look at it. I hope you haven't made his job harder by using pliers to try and remove your carb.

BTW. lownloud....Why would he need to replace any of his ignition components if he is getting spark? Just curious..

 

Where are you located? Is there anyone around that can help this guy out?

Just because you blow into the fuel line and fuel goes everywhere does not mean that it will idle. The fuel for idle comes out of one of the slots that is right at the level of the primary throttle plate. Its air comes in through the idle air bleed at the top of the carb, so "blowing" into the fuel line won't do squat to see if it will have fuel for idle. The idle mixture screw adjusts the air/fuel ratio between the bleed, and the fuel inlet to the slot. Idle fuel flows strictly by the venturi effect.
Make sure you have properly identified which screw is what from the proper diagram, so you are turning the right screw the correct way.
If you can make it run with your foot on the accelerator, you should be able to turn the warm idle speed screw in far enough to raise the idle to a point where you can start it and get to the engine compartment.
Then you can slowly back the warm idle speed screw out to the lowest point it will run. Then work on adjusting the idle mixture screw until the truck runs smoother.
At that point, you should be close enough that you can go a partial turn on each screw until it is idling smoothly and at the proper RPM.
The next step would be to let the truck cool for many (8 or so) hours, and set the cold idle (choke) speed. DO NOT TOUCH the other screws!

Of course, this does you no good now since it sounds like you've managed to screw up the whole thing - with stripped bolts, etc...

Best of luck to ya!

 

and youll notice i removed that, because i knew you would say something to this effect. ohwell. wasnt meant to "e-ffend" you. but your smart remarks are worthless in the thread.

 

lol, thanks for the info, and as for the "screwing it up" part, the bolt that is stripped now, was stripped the begin with. the bolt ( i think) broke when i tried removing it but it wont even come out of the hole so I don't know what happened to it honestly. that one and another just spins and one actually came out. i have another carb that can be rebuilt im guessing, its a bit gummy but i bought some of that carb cleaner dip stuff that has a basket in it and you just let the carb sit in it. that may be workable and all i would need is a new manifold. guess i will find out wednesday.


and no......no pliers were used. once the wrench slipped i stopped and called it a night. the guy says if its not fixable at the house, he can flat bed tow it to his and get it fixed. well see.

 

Considering I made only one smart remark after reading and responding to 6 pages in over 2 threads, I thought I was doing ok.

You've been given the proper procedure for troubleshooting your carb.
You even found a great link that walks you through it step by step.

You may also noticed that only 2 people (now 3 thanks to A2ndopinion, I don't include the loud guy as I'm not to sure he know's what he's talking about) have replied to your posts. That's because it has all been said, yet you keep asking basically the same question...If it makes you feel better, I'll tell you what you want to hear.

Do the V8 swap.

P.S. If your gonna tell someone they are talking worthless crap...stick to your e-guns and don't edit the post....

 

response

After I read the post about not firing I wanted to make sure he had done at least that part of it, it was afterwords I found out that he had spark, hence the mistake. Ive heard and seen of some getting spark and yet not enough because of the faulty ignitor it was working and then not, from that I went on to my suggestion of BASIC maintenance. This happened on my 84' shortly after I bought it. Really didnt read every single line of post in this ongoing project ! Having mentioned this, I will no longer post or read this thread, its getting far to difficult to follow everyones harsh words on each other!

L o w N l o u d

 

It could very well be the ignitor, Mine went out and I didn't think I was ever gonna figure out what it was. Make sure the spark coming from the ignitor is blue and not a yellow/orange color. if it's not blue then just replace it. and as far as thread bashing, give him a break. Some people aren't as good at some things as others. Thats why these forums exist so that people can talk about things and help each other out.

 

I agree 100%

 

i think the real problem is the lack of testing to actually find the problem.


i can sit here all day and come up with "possibility's" but really its just useless banter.

throwing money @ the problem prolly wont help either. there isnt any use in buying new plugs, ect. unless you KNOW they are bad. the carb systems are quite bullet proof but not operator proof. i still blame anything adjusted b4 anything else, unless tests prove otherwise.

as for the stripped bolts, the 2 bolts closest to the head thread into the intake. the 2 on the outside are bolts that go clear through the intake with a nut on the bottom. it can be seen in one of the diagrams @ autozone.

but now that the carb is mostly removed our job is exceedingly hard. i am going to be absolutly useless for the re-install because the vacuum diagram changed by the hour in the 80's. even so i usally throw most of it away and use a weber.


ill help if i can but i need as much INFO and PICTURES as possible to be of any use.

 

thanks, not all of us are good with the mechanics of things but i can do body work pretty damn good if i may say so myself. i went into pulling/replacing/rewiring my f100 blind and it took a while but i got it done with the help of a good friend (that i met through a forum). fact is, I have no clue what the truck is doing, was doing, or will do. nor do i know how to even start to diagnose things outside of spark, fuel, and air. i can read all i want but until i see someone do it in front of me, i continue to have an "idea" but hesitant to do so myself. im not trying to make war on a forum i feel can be (and is) very useful in the build of this truck, im just trying to get it to the point of knowing if its worth working on....with spending the least bit of money. i know i have been told what to do....and possibly how, but as said earlier....im STILL lost. i have a mechanic coming tomorrow, hopefully he can work with me as he is a friends family friend and i can come out on top in this whole situation. he seems to love old toyotas so maybe he can tell me what needs to be done to take it onthe road for the first time in (what i found out is) 9 years.

 

thanks for the tip, as i had NO clue about the rear bolts. that helps a load. i can tighten these back down, as well as put the one that came off, back on. i wasn't aware of this at all, must have missed that whole picture or just didnt realize this.

as for the vaccuum....they are all connected still, and nothing has been removed that i cant put back on properly.






PS: as for my previous post, i did not mention that i AM thankful for the help given, useful to me or not. its appreciated.