Just FYI, if you plan to run tube arms, you should probably try to get just the lowers if you can afford it. They are shaped much different than stock arms, and usually your bag mounts wont really work if you just switch and you will have to redo them. I am pretty sure Steve would split the set up, and I do that also with my arms. You can look at my shop truck build thread to get some ideas for Z'ing the frame and dropping the motor and drag link, and see the arms I make.

 

A few more things came in today... Now pretty much jut waiting on the 4 link and bag mounts,then the real fun will begin...

 

cool man cant wait to see this.

 

A few more things came in today... Now pretty much jut waiting on the 4 link and bag mounts,then the real fun will begin...



Compressors and bags... Slam re6's and 7's


GC 250psi 1/2' Valves


7 Gallon tank

Spindles came in as well. Mocked them up on truck to do the final trimming of inner fenderwells... Going to have to make somewhat of a wheel tub to lay on the crossmember.


Getting pretty close to clutch master... Does anybody know if you have to move this when running a z'ed frame?

 

Yah man a lot of people have to move it but usually not till a body drop you can recess into firewall or I've seen a few people make a customer clutch pedal with cylinder reversed inside of cab

 

I might make like a basic DIY clutch pedal kit for these trucks to put it under the dash. I have to do mine soon and I've done it with every truck I've had so far.

Also those valves are gonna be FAST! I ran some 3/8" on my friends fullsize, and the lift speed was uncontrollable. Ended up building flow controls out of ball valves and putting plugs with a little hole in the dump valves. The diaphragm in them is huge, its basically like a 3/4" valve.

 

Wow! Yea my buddy who I work with used to have a bagged 'Yota and he said my valves were 2x the size of his old ones...He figured they were gonna be really fast too... I might have to put flow controlls on 'em or something...

As far as the clutch master goes... I didnt think I had to move it with no body drop... Guess I was wrong.lol I still need to cut out the spots in the firewall that are holding the truck up now... Crossmember is 1/4' off the ground now with the spindles on. So I figured when I get the firewall cut out the tire is gonna hit the master. Gonna do some more work tomorrow as well. Here's a few more pics. Going to start taking pics with my actual camer soon.Hahaha. Crappy Cameraphone pics...












My new daily 'till the truck is done... Just a 'lil bit faster...

 

Just alittle bit faster. Can i barrow it when your done on yours so i can work on mine.

 

Hahaha! "Sure".

 

cool, thanks

 

Hi, this is Jason's wife...He is holding me against my will making me read all your posts. In case I never see him again since he will be working on his mini for the next few months I figured I would say hi. sooooo hi.

 

Hi. i can say this is the first we ever had someones wife post on here. But first thing first... We need a pic of the one posting. Its a must on here. Second keep us posted on what hes doing on his other chick while hes doing and take alot of pics and videos. Third ...nice to meet you

 

i told my wife she's gunna think i've ran away once all my parts come in over the next week.

almost, but i'm going to say second. if you dig (and i mean dig deep lol) dave's (nverenufedge) wife used to chat with us a bit in this thread. it started after we kinda thread jacked a guys build, and it kinda got carried away lol. it was originally called "papabears thread jacking thread" lol

http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/off-topic-12/toyotaminis-chat-forum-2298/

 

I think the DIY clutch kit would be sik. I have tge GC extreme 350s 1/2" on the front isn't to bad with an AVS rocker switch. Once you get the flick down you can control it pretty well IMO

 

I have to move my clutch and brake booster just to lay frame, so be glad you have a newer truck. Lol. Its a little easier. I need a 90s clutch pedal and bracket if anyone has an extra one, so I can incorporate the clutch switch. My truck doesnt come with one. I figure I can make a basic hanger that the stock stuff bolts to with a little work, and welds to the firewall.

 

Well, change of plans... Don't think I'm going to z the frame now as im using stock uppers and lowers and dont wanna lower the engine and re-locate the strutrods. The plan now is to clearance the firewall a lil bit to get the crossmember to lay flat. As it sits it's about 1/4 off the ground,firewall is holding it up at the moment... I'm afraid when I do that, the tire is going to hit my clutch master causing a new clearance issue... We'll see i guess. I'll be posting up more progress pics throughout the week. Thanks to everyone who has answered any questions I've had and shared the knowledge...

 

Liken it alot! Can't wait to get mine started. What wheels you gonna run?

 

Not sure on wheels yet... Going to run 20's though for sure. I have a set of police package crown vic 17's I might slap on there pretty soon... We'll see.

 

Just Z it now. Ur guna ge tired of lookin at it sitting wit the front up higher.

 

pick your wheels 1st

Whatever route you choose, you really should set your idea on rims first before anything. It will tell you how much clearance you're really dealing with. If you're really set on 20's, expect to tackle ALOT of clearance issues. Tubbing the firewall is just the tip of the iceberg. Clutch pedal issues, master clutch cylinder, brake booster are the other headaches. I doubt you'll be able to lay frame w/ 20" rims unless you got a stupid amount of camber angle on wheels. Even if you were able to get the 20's to sit up front clearance free, the rears will be poking out of the bed rails a considerable amount too. Just my opinion, you can take or leave it but I think 18's should be the max rim size to run.
Good luck