I changed the rear diff fluid and damn that s*** was stinky! Good thing I didn't get any of it on me.
today... iDrove it to school n' back home and decided to peel off my rear window tint... its so bright now inside my truck gotta retint it soon
that's pretty weird it did that. Maybe it was the intake pipe not fully sealed? My EGR is disconnected but i put a cloth over the port.
Turns out that it wasn't that at all, but I'm kinda digging the factory intake look with the open intake howl. No, I'm fairly certain that it is my master cyl. I put a post up in the 89-95 chassis section asking about master cyls and how to pick which one. If you happen to have any insight, drop in and let me know. They are cheap enough new, and I might as well go ahead and get a new one. The previous owner said that he was having an identical problem with his 89 4wd mosnter yota and that the master fixed it. I'm not losing fluid, so I'm thinking it is the seal on the piston, or the piston itself, that is casuing the slow pressure loss. I have to pump for a second or two before I can use full breaks, so driving it is REALLY fun right now... Hence the fact that I'm still driving my buddy's corolla to work. Same buddy is wanting to buy my F3 stunt bike. I told him that I need enough to get control arms for the truck. I'm thinking about some Michigan Metal Works arms... My buddy is also the one who is helping me with wiring; he likes to do wiring, but has very little experience, whereas I have done my share of wiring and electrical planning, but hate doing it. He gets to learn, and I don't have to run wires and hit crimps, and tuck wiring away and such!
I plotted them out,tagged,& diagrammed. Also put 3 pin connectors in close to the ECU so if never again won't have to remove all the wires & sensors!
Well thank you! Now started on the repainting of the dash & surrounding areas. Have all removed & prepped,& working on installing a outside air temp. gauge where the stock clock was!
Started changing out my timing chain and found the passenger side guide was gone and the chain had started wearing into the cover ya. Also found that the last person that changed the timing chain used red sealent on every part even those that had a gasket. Oh well I will finished it tomorrow.
Would never do that! My kids get it when I can no longer drive!! And if they were to sell ,my instructions are first to offer to the main people who have advised me through my build! Plus if were to sell ,could never get any where near what I have in my baby, & most all the cost is in parts ,as I have done almost all the work myself!!!! Most well built Mini's get less than $20,000!! I have near that just under the hood!!
Bought more parts. Now in addition to the 4 tie rod ends, drop spindles,a ss-6 bag (boy does the drivers side sit higher at full inflation) for the passenger side, and all 4 ball joints waiting to go on the truck, I now have a brake master cyl, a radiator cap, a centerlink, and a pair of tie rod sleeves joining them in the parts box in the garage. Oh, and since I'll be going with MMW arms when I build up and bolt in an all new front suspension, I'll have no use for this pile of balljoints. I think I have like 3 uppers and 2 lowers. I'll probably sell them for like 40+shipping for all of them at some point. It is a lot cheaper than Autozone.
Trying to decide between taking these new bag plates, factory ball joints,and factory lower arms and use that to redo my front suspension and save 700 to put into a timing chain, headgasket, and can. Or spend the 700 on a set of mmw arms, or get a banging stereo with a pair of shallow 10's. I'm also looking at pics of my truck and other rattle canned trucks online and wondering if I want to get me a frankobake special, or get the truck down to Mobile to get it tagged up and then clear it... Of course, if I do the engine work, I'll be tempted to look at a Turbo kit at tax time...