DANGG! Whoever did The work did an awesome job, guessing they do it quite often lol.
When I finish porting the head I'll try to get a spare intake.. And a long reach bit to get in there!

 

That was the first one I ever ported. I used a high speed drill for the carbide bit and a slower variable speed for the sand paper rolls. Just an old variety pack my dad ordered from PAW in the 90s and never used. Had a pretty long reach bit and I didn't care if the plastic chuck hit the port flange because I saved the final pass at the edge for last. So the few marks were gonna get cut away anyways. I picked that intake up for $20 on craigslist. From a 76 celica I think. Doesn't have the EGR port off the back of the intake plenum to disturb the flow towards the intake ports. The early carbs fed the EGR into the base plate not the intake itself, on the few that even had it yet.

Any 75-80 Celica, Corona or truck will have a 20R and the intake you need. Pops off in about 5 minutes. I'm sure you can find one at the junkyard. I don't have any spares or I'd send them your way.

 

I doubt ill have any issues finding a spare intake, have 4 junkyard within reasonable distance..
I pretty much fry my compressor (its a smaller one, barely keeps up) when i use my die grinder for porting, so i bought a little electric "rotary tool" (knock off dremel) from harbor freight for $10. came with some bits and it actually works surprisingly well. just takes longer but it helps to not take too much at once..

 

Step up to a 3/8" drill, even a cheap harbor freight one. It has a lot more torque than a wimpy die grinder, especially an electric one. It won't take too much at once, but will make much faster work of things. I eventually plan to port out a few and have them ready to go for projects or to sell to people. Its fun porting them out I think. I like metal work.

 

Metal working is my dream job, Especially when it has to do with automobiles! Id way rather stay home and work on a motor than go out and have "fun"..

As far as a drill or die grinder, im fine using what i have.. trying to spend as little money as possible until i get a job, and even after that i still have parts i need to buy..

 

So i finished smoothing out my intake side and got them to my satisfaction, about half way I couldnt successfully use a sandpaper wheel but i still got it fairly smooth.


I started working on the exhaust side, just doing a little port matching not worried about how smooth it is.. Can i take out these tubes? they are in all 4 exhaust ports


I also talked to my machinist about doing 22r valves in this head, he instantly started talking about what needs to be done like setting them in deeper since they are shorter.. but he did say its a better deal then buying over sized valves for the 20r.. So Im going to be getting that done after my crank is turned and i get bearing so i know how much money i have left.

 

Those are emission tubes usually Cali trucks got those they can be removed but might be best to let your machinist pop them out as he might have the proper tool to do so without causing possible damage

 

Those tubes just fed air to the emissions crap. Cut them off flush or drill them out. I've never bothered removing mine tho lol

 

I feel like they cant be good for flow efficiency.. lol

Ill see what I can do to get rid of them, maybe just leave them if its too much hassle..

 

Well that was easy.. I drilled the flared edge off then just tapped the tubes out with a small deep socket..

 

Good deal .

 

I always figured that would work. Ill have to try that when I take my header back off. One of the header studs stripped out again. And the collector has a few drag holes. When I weld it back solid I'm gonna add an O2 sensor for my A/F ratio gauge.

 

I found out the hard way that I should've cut them shorter.. I left a decent gouge in each port. Oh well I'm gonna smooth them anyways

You should just Weld some plate on the bottom, make it go a lot longer before it wear through again.

 

The header collector is close enough to the front tire it rarely drags. Mostly just speed bumps if I come down to fast. A few tacks will brace it up. But a little drag plate there might not hurt. Eventually I'm gonna raise the engine crossmember so its even with the frame rails. That will pull the engine and header up, I won't drop them back down. No more dragging exhaust lol.

 

Busy day!

So I had a successful day, started off by getting my crank back from my machinist after having it polished and got new bearings for it, Then I ordered a rod off ebay to replace one of mine that is missing its end cap and has deep grooves worn in it, then I started deep cleaning my garage.. I finally quit cleaning for the day and tried my hand at polishing piston tops

Heres what I started with. Nothing special, just a new piston with the normals machine finish.


It wasnt too rough so i started with 800 grit, then went to 1000, then 1500, then 2000, followed by some rubbing compound on a buffer, then finally mothers mag and aluminum polish by hand. Next time I will probably start at 500 grit to make it a little faster... I didnt try to do anything but the big flat top.


Not bad for about 10 minutes of work..

 

Piston looks pretty good. You might wanna brake clean off the mothers though. It'll burn off when ya start but that'll get most of it off. And good deal on everything else. It's always fun building motors. I can't count how many I've built, its hundreds lol. Not just Toyotas, lots of stuff. I can't keep my hands clean.

 

So far I've built two working on my third, and helped a friend on two.. Not bad for not even being 18..

I'm starting to have to make changes on what is goin to be done, like do I get internals balanced or spend that money for bigger valves? I'm thinking getting things balanced since I can work on a different hater later on down the road

 

I wouldn't balance things. Money spent elsewhere would be best. The gains and effect will hardly be noticeable. I take mine to 7k once in a while and it doesn't shake. Strong ignition to sustain the rpm and a good breathing head/intake/exhaust setup are the keys to these motors.

And props to buddy, didn't realize you're still a youngin' lol. It's good to learn things early. I got a head start and was in the shop by the age of 4

 

I haven't made a final decision yet so I might not get it balanced.. I'd rather just do it now instead of bigger valves since I can easily swap heads, it's not so easy to take out a crank and such..

Yep I'm still a youngin, exactly a week until I'm legally an adult

 

If the cranks stock and rods are stock . The need to balance is minimal . If the the machinist hasn't removed any counter weights or drilled the crank . The balance will be plenty stable for the rev capability of the crank If you were to use aftermarket internals or a modified crank . A. Balance and secondary balance would be ideal if not going the full ten yards for a blueprint of the rotating assembly

Depending on how much the guy charges . ., use. It on a fully worked head or a a Holley or side drafts .it will save you some cash that will be fruitful in other areas

Only reason I balanced my bottom end is because my crank was drilled ,and cut down . To we're it had to be checked or done to ensure balance .(included in the process of the procedure)