Oh and I was talking with a guy in firstgencelica a while ago about boring a 20r to 2.5 or 2.6 liters and using ford pistons I think. But If I was you I'd use a 22r shortblock. The .2 liters is nice, but the gains are in the domed 22r piston tops.
Sounds like a nice setup . Add your header and exhaust to complement it all pick a cam . If ya wanna really move some air might consider side draft carbs . As they are the creme of the crop when it comes to making horsepower on these things . Cams love them That or one of the holly carbs You'll have no problems out runing you friends modded datsuns Cucuy were referring to combustin chamber polishing not intake and exhaust porting Those are already proven power gainers
It will work with that . . And still perform . But you can always upgrade to larger carb or dual carbs if desired ..I've been staring at dual 45 mm side drafts for years now but 1300 dollars ..ouch
I'm using a weber 34/34 synchronized 330cfm To small for my motor . Wil eventually go holly or dual side drafts ..leaning towards side drafts . If the right price shows up. The gains are well worth it
Currently I think I will probably go with the Holley for the price.. $500 from lc (the expensive place lol) including the adapter for a stock intake.. Unless I can get an awesome price for a single sidedraft setup
I will keep that in mind. Probably just use the stock with my weber when I finish my motor and save up to get the sidedraft..
Stay way from lc .. There overpriced period u can get a Holley 350 or 500 from Jegs .. Mainofolf adapter can be sourced of the Internet .. Holley is an excellent choice .. ...but don't even give LC any of your money .. Pyramid scheme ... I'm on a couple celiac forums for motor purposes we joke about LC . They make great headers . A few good cams but everything else has been in the market for years ....
No way was I planning on buying from LC.. Notice I said the expensive place, I figured I could get it cheaper elsewhere. If I wanted one of there cams I would find the specs for it then have a local cam place grind those specs, like $69 with core and they are local. Besides, I'm a long ways from buying A carb. Everything I need I'm getting from my machinist for a fair price, or I already have it.. Rafaelli: you spent a lot of money on your head.. I don't think I'll even come close to that much, but I won't know until the end..
Not at all .. Litneon They make some great parts and some very specific r series parts but if you've been there done that u can achieve the same results they have for way less ... As in there are several types of build s that have been in racing production sense the late 80s Vs buying one of there stage series motors . For upwards of four and half grand .. .thats insane My head was about 750 with cam crower cam .. It's an outlaw head from engnbldr It's a great product very nice smooth ports .. If your looking for good cams there are more than a handful to choose from .. Some going for 80 bucks to 300 bucks ..but either way u have it what you got right now will smoke your friends datsuns.
The top end on my truck cost 900-1000 bux. Parts, machine work, sprocket and valve train. Would I do it again? No Do I like what I got? Def yes. Lc stuff is top notch, just like snap on tools. Top quality hands down. But it does suck tearing up motor mounts and driveshafts on a regular basis. If I did it again I'd do a v8 swap.
I ported the intake runners a little more, was able to get at 99% of it but didn't use the sandpaper rolls on it yet.. Still a whole lot smoother! I'll put up some pics later, or I have some on my instagram 77toyota
I didn't port my own head, but mine is just a little cleanup on the intake path. They didn't even take the texture off up near the valve. But damn I still noticed a difference with the bigger cam vs the old stock head/cam. Keep getting the head good then start on the intake manifold. There are lots of gains to be made on the runner size and shape. Its sort of unround to start with. And I stuck my 1 piece weber adapter on and port matched it through the intake plenum opening. I HIGHLY recommend removing the crossbar between the stock carb ports. It helps alot just doing that lol. I have some pics of my intake porting here for ya This is also a better fix than the stock bolts. Using a set screw vs a stud allows you to have the allen head end to install them tighter and make sure they don't rotate further when you stick the water plate and nuts back on. Just use a box end wrench like when you adjust the valves. I oversized and retapped the holes because a few stripped out along the way. Theres also ways to block the water under the thermostat and eliminate the plate and the rear plug between the #3 and #4 intake runners.