I have a 79' 20R, de smogged, long tube header, ported intake, 32/36 weber, msd coil+wires. Mated to a 5 speed. No one in interior Alaska wants to cut the head for o.s. valve seats so I w u ll probably just get stainless valves in stock diameter and get upgraded springs, locks and retainers, a 3 angle cut, pocket port, gasket match and a little blending. Will this flow enough for 6500 r.p.m.? I have sourced a 22R lower end, is it worth building? The only high comp pistons I can find are Wiseco @9.9cr. And a bit pricey. I am a bit apprehensive about running over 9.5-1 on Alaskas crap pump gas. I believe ~9.5 cr, a cam in the 280° .450 lift range and a new recurved dizzy and aftermarket ignition will get me there, I have an older Jacobs box and coil in my garage, anyone have experience with these? Am I on the right track?
A weber 32/36 won't flow enough for what your talking about. I have a 1982 22r, with a 20r head, ported a ton, lc stage 5 valves and springs, and a Holley 500 cfm two barrel. My carb chokes it out over 6k rpm. Still spins to 7 easily, but isn't making more power than at 6k. If you are serious, go sidedraft. I think there is 20+ hp on the table if I do.
There is also the Holley 4 barrel or just supercharge it with a Camden kit for all the money spent on head work manifolds and such. Make the rotating assembly lighter-this will help a ton. performance < 32/36 = fuel economy or swap in a 2 or 3RZ and bam! - + 150hp
@First80toyota: Yes for the 22R lower end I was just going to use the 20 in which case wiseco forged is the only ones I can find. @Raffaelli: I left out that I have a holley 500cfm 2bbl from a circle track car. So 150hp isnt possible with a single downdraft? @Racersk: I want to keep it n/a and R series, period cortect if you will. I plan on lightweight flywheel, 22R rocker assembly and weight matching rods and pistons.
i heard that the 22r head is better, higher compression than the 20r head. yes, i understand the runner in the ports for 20r are a straighter path, but the late 22r is larger and can be ported out even larger. plus its already got a smaller chamber = higher compression. all u would need is the pop-up piston made for the head chamber. its an easy 10.5:1 i dont think toyota would "de-tune" their engines. obviously there was something new to be discovered when they switched from the 20r to the 22r, then the late model 22r. just a thought. and, i've heard/read that KB pistons are not very reliable. your bible for your build: LCEngineering.com
Ditch the carb and go to a after market efi and ditch the toyota vast system and it can be done My truck did 130rwhp and 190 rwtorq on the stock ecu with some bolt on's this was done on stock ecu and injectors on a stock block with some mileage I was running a california ecu
Are those engines readily available in the states? I'll start looking may be a solution for me later on.
Available? Yes. Readily Available? No. Cheap? NO. Toysport has a bunch of them in their inventory but AFAIK, they will only sell one that they have rebuilt = $4,000 last time I asked a few years ago. If you watch craigslist or ebay, they pop up occasionally for $1,200 used and/or usually not running.
call LC engineering. tell them what u are planning to build. they should be able to lead u in the right direction. they also have pistons 12.5 : 1
I have decided making real power with the little R will be too expensive. I am going to do a budget mild hybrid and swap if I get bored with it. Already have an 83 shortblock so here's the new plan. Engnbldr. Rebuild kit with 270 cam $380 Stainless valves $60 Yotashop 22R Rocker kit $200 Lc engineering. Valvespring kit w/cromo retainers $200 Adj cam gear $90 Total $880 Whatever it puts out will be an improvement and thats fine with me. Thanks for the replies people!
That cam is too small and those rockers are too expensive. Call delta cams and they'll hook you up for CHEAP. You're going to need a bigger carb too. I'm almost to the end of my 38/38's cfm on a pretty mild build. Next step is a holley 2 barrel.
In all reality a 500 4 barrel will probably get the nod. You're right it makes more sense to skip a step when the adapters and carbs are comparable in price.
Oh really... That's exactly what I need to do the swap. It beats the hell out of a pile of adapters to bolt it on a stock intake.