thanks! and thanks for taking the time to go through the thread. been a long road and still a long way to go.

my thoughts exactly. i'd have to remove it at every show and clean the suspension anyways. all the judging sheets out here have a spot for cleanliness. i'm sure once it's painted and chromed it'll be way easier to maintain then bare metal like it is now.

 

Damn!

 

finally putting in some more work. started on the inside of the bed. trucks just been sitting. way to hot here. i did cruise it to the semi-local sonic the other day.

there will be no sharp corners in the bed. all the radius' will match the top bed rail radius.

 

I have been watching the weather channel and you AZ boys have been getting some nasty hot weather. Very nice work as always. Looking forward to seeing some color on this truck,

 

Hey burnz, where did you get your tail lights?

 

thanks.

i had a friend order them from lowrider depot since he had an account. they're avs brand. the kit was pretty nice and easy to install.

this is what i bought

AVS :: AVS L.E.D. Taillights :: Solid Red LED kits :: 7.5" AVS RED L.E.D. TAIL LIGHT KIT WITH RED LENSES

 

i plan to run some small tubing where the seam is. the floor sheet will be trimmed to fit, then butt welded in. the tubing should help keep the shrinking to a manageable amount, and the tube will provide a backing to hammer against to stretch the seam a bit. thinking about tig welding it so that i have a tiny weld. i hate grinding lol.

 

If you mean the edge of the bottom flat to the side part, wouldn't a flanger work better than a butt weld? Overlap with some holes to spot weld.

 

a flanger would be easier, but the butt weld is better. the downside to lapping the metal is you'll still get some warpage. it's super hard to fix because the 2 layers don't allow you to stretch the weld seam back out with a hammer and dolly. doing the butt weld is a lot harder, but its way easier to stretch the single layer. a few minutes with the hammer and dolly and the warpage will be gone.




i did a a little more fitting





what i'm going to try and do is build the whole floor like a drop in bedliner. that will allow the metal to be worked straight after the welding. here is the rear half out on it's own.

 

also fit this piece before the sun went down.

 

working on getting the tubs radiused on all sides. lots of work with a shrinker/stretcher but it's coming along.

 

Oooooohhh!!! I need a towel

 

I wish I still lived in az city. I would loved to have seen your truck. I moved to washington 3 years ago. Damn do I miss az .

 

thanks? lol

you're probably the first person to ever say they miss being in az city. i love az but not az city. been down here for 7 years.




i finished fitting all the pieces to the tub and got them welded.





and got it tacked into place

 

This is...just...wow! There are so many things in this build that are just spot on. Burnz dayum! I checked this build a few years ago and loved the way it was going! But meow just wow! I plan on doing the bedside extension on my stock bed...theres alot of things alike with the build I'm starting soon but with smaller wheels and coilovers and more classic unsmoothed body...how much deeper do you think the bed could be if coils were used? (like no air tank/big wheels)

 

I lived there for 8 years got a lotta friends I miss there. Your truck is just insane wish I would've seen it before. I lived off of madero dr damn near across from the sheriffs dept.

 

thanks. you shouldn't need to modify the bed at all with static suspension. you could run a coil over bridge between the stock frame. then run a drop mount on the axle and get short coil overs. something similar to hot rod setup.

yep i actually over bodydropped the bed. it's 7" deep. same as my old s10. still semi usable if i wasn't doing all the sheetmetal work lol.

i'm pretty close to there on tinajas. i've had it for about 4 years but 3 years ago it was still basically stock.

 

Ah that's interestin...what if I make IRS with petty long coilovers and lay them on their side...I want to body drop the cab sill to the ground, at the bottom of the adjustment. So to drive with the sill just hovering above the ground how much notch will the cab is needed? Or channel, what ever its called.