Once the underside of cab is done, that is exactly what im doing. Going to use LizardSkin sound control (SC) in the whole cab, to include doors. I am overestimating, but looking to need 3 gals min, but 4 gals is what im going to get. I will also be using TRUCK ACTION's idea of speakers behind the seat, but i can only fit 4x6 as my currect 6x9 wont fit with the covers becuase of the door seals. So since i will have a big hole there, i will SC inside the panels. Then i will start basic interior reassembly, so i can redo my wiring. Im combining the engine fuse box and interiors fuse box into one. I will place it behind the right kick panel. I just wish i could get someone to render a picture(s) of the truck to help me make "final" decisions on the look im wanting.

 

Small update. I am still working to get the underside of cab ready for POR-15 bed liner, but should have it done by end of week. Lizard Skin SC is ordered and should be here early next week. I did get a chance to go to junk yard and got a few things I need which was more of the rubber plugs for the frame; to include the plugs for the tranny bar and the bar over the axle (which are just a tad small, but RTV will fix that), a tail light male plug (future project), a front skid plate (plastic) off and 89-95 gen. The one 89-95 truck they have has a factory sunroof (red), got me thinking about it, but I'm not sure I really want a sunroof.

Getting there...This was just after I finished scrapping off all the factory under coating. I didn't originally plan to remove all of it, but I didn't want to risk the new bed liner not sticking to the original stuff.




Anyone have any recommendations to remove the factory glue that was used for the roof's sound insulation? I have a few ideas, but was curious what others have done?

Here is a pic of all the new polyurethane bushings, boots, & bump stops on the front suspension. Just incase anyone is curious, the bump stops are "universal" but should work out great. The uppers as spot on, but the lowers are not a direct bolt on, I did have to drill a hole for them, but for the cost I will deal with it. Not in the below picture, I did install a set of "universal" bump stops in the rear, this involved drilling 2 holes, one for the bushing to sit in and one to get a socket on the nut. I probly could have just done a nutster (threaded pop rivet) but I didn't want to risk it backing out.

 

I think I got enough stuff to keep me busy for atleast a week or two.

 

Looking good! I've been eyeing that Lizard Skin product, good choice.

If going through with all these coatings, why not sandblast or solvent strip it and really get it to bare metal?

 

[QUOTE="Perkolator, post: 218545, member: 16299"If going through with all these coatings, why not sandblast or solvent strip it and really get it to bare metal?[/QUOTE]

Dont have a trailer to move the parts around and I dnt know of a place locally to have it done at. I am also wanting to not have to metal etch it to get everything to adhere to it. Most of these coatings you wont see and this is by no means a sema show truck. Lol

 

I understand that, but you're kinda already there based on the cab-off build you're doing. Instead of blasting, maybe some aircraft stripper followed by pressure washer and a sander/wire wheel. Then you've got bare steel for the best adhesion of the POR15 and Lizard Skin. All you need is a set of casters or furniture dolly under that pallet to move the cab around.

It's what I'm planning to do to my Oldsmobile once I start that project. I don't have a big air compressor to sand blast, also the body is WAY bigger than a mini truck cab, lol (18ft nose to tail). I'm planning to make a wood rotisserie hybrid I saw online, so I can flip it up on its side. It was my dads car and now family heirloom, so I'm kind of obligated to do a do a frame-off restoration.

 

U have a point about stripping it to bare metal. I just dont want to run the risk of me not finishing body work before I have to do a military move at the end of this year. Also, why spend the extra time and money on parts of a truck that no one will,see but me. Now the exterior body work I am deciding if I want to take to bare metal.

 

Long over due update. I was able to spray the POR-15 bed liner under the cab and the inside of the engine bay. I will spray the wheel wells once I get the fenders on. I have already started working on the interior to get it ready for the LizardSkin SC. Other things I am working or worked on for abit was the electrical & interior plastics. Hopefully by end of this weekend I will have sprayed the LizardSkin and then I can finally put the cab back on my frame! Oh I also used Por-15 body filler putty and I am very surprised how hard it turn out and easy it is to work with. I will be using it on a few small holes and then I might go back later and fill in all the unused holes on the inner fenders later on down the road.

I will say that this POR-15 bed liner is not very thick at all, but for what I want it to do, I think it will do great. I sprayed it using Eastwoods cheaper undercoating gun, lesson learned is that you will need to move the gun a lot quicker than spray paint. So my first coat did have a few runs, nothing that I can't live with.

Here be the pics.

 

Looks very good man!

 

Awesome work man!! Keep it up!! This is almost the same spot im at in my build...
I have the same idea so far as my gauges go. I'm swapping a 1UZ I'm my truck and will probably have to go with after market guagues as I'll be running to Auto trans that came off the donor (SC400) and have yet to figure out how I'm going to do the speedo.
Although I do wanna go with the classic series from Autometer, the gauges as hella expensive!! Almost more then what I paid for the entire donor!

 

@Lowtide67, thanks man!

I am about to get cab put back onto frame, but work is keeping me busy, so hopefully in a week or so ill have an update.

 

Got the cab back on, but before i did i was able to spray the inside of the cab and the outside of the inner fenders. Here r the picks. Truck is back home now, so maybe ill be able to get more done now, hopefully. Next is wiring harness / put interior back in. So that means painting all the interior pieces.

 

Just to let everyone know, a gal of the Por-15 undercoating will do everything in black, with some left over. The LizardSkin amount needed to do all of the interior for a standard cab is 3 gals. I bought 4 gals and still have 3/4 of the 2nd 2 gal bucket left. So im planning to coat the underside of the hood to try and use up the rest of the LizardSkin SC. I will also say, that if you plan to spray the LizardSkin, the gun deffently is worth the money. I used the economy undercoating gun eastwood sells for the undercoating. Both worked great.

 

That is looking good man!

 

looks good man! Wonder why you went lizard skin instead of dynamat for sound deadening assuming less of a hassle to apply that vs dynamat.

 

Correct, easier to apply in all the spots. Dynamat would have also cost alot more and been harder to get in all the spots i got the lizard skin into.

 

I used to work in car audio and unless you wore thick leather gloves, dynamat will cut this S*** out of your hands when you do an entire cab.... Theirs a good one you can find at lowes and Home Depot that's the same thing as dynamat at a fraction of the cost. The use it for AC work.

 

Good to know. Thanks

 

I use thin mechanic's gloves. I've never been cut installing mat dampener. You do wind up with aluminum tarnish all over your gloves though.

 

Thats exactly what I will be doing soon....