actually the air hits the rad great with a couple of puller fans facing back on the rad, and the rad kinda of at a 45 angle . The air comes over the cab when driving on the freeway and such and swirles right into the rad. At a stop the fans pull enough to keep it cool. its what trophy trucks use out in the desert here.

 

ahhhh you were thinking of putting it in the bed. my idea was under neath... lol

 

In the bed would def be doable and you could use a bigger radiator still that trying to stuff one in the bay..... and at that could you even say move the engine and inche forward for even better clearance at the distributor?

 

you'd want to keep the weight of the engine within the confines of the wheelbase enough so that it wouldn't adversely affect handling or braking any more than it already is. Ideally, you'd want the engine further back and lower to give better weight distribution and lower center of gravity.

 

ya once the weight passes the center of the spindle bad bad things happen...

you are going to need the room anyways to fit the motor. its just an easy fix to an annoying problem. its how i run all my big motor swaps. I tell people you can have it too way, an overheating sleeper, or a daily visible v8...

 

Is there a way to get the engine to sit lower or is that requiring major modifications to do so

 

i havnt personally used the kit from NWOR...you should call em and ask about hood clearence..

edit: and looking at the pics the motors are sitting under the wiper cowel so they should fit stock hood. they are also picturing them with a 4 core radiator, but i dont know by the pics if these are 4x4's with a body lift helping them fit everything under the hood. i would ask them.

personally i would run the rad out back for badassness but its up to you. i would rather be able to drive through the desert in 113 degree weather and not be even worried then have the radiator under the hood and be checking the gauge all the time.

 

I am definately thinkin about the rad in the bed and being able to run a bigger rad as well for the assurance of not overheating..... fintting the engine under the oe hood isn't a huge deal but it is preferred..... I'm goin to be doing this on a pretty tight budget so hopefully I can start sometime not too far off.... but I want to get the engine re sealed and bearings installed and painted before I start so that will be some time as well...

 

If a pics worth a thousand words...

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/1953009119.html

 

nice truck...look at the water pump. i dont know how they are going to fit a rad in there.

 

Damn that thing is stuffed but that is hawt!..... I'm all over it now for sure!! just seeing one done make me want to get it done even more

 

How do you fit the driveshaft to the chev trans and how do you fit it to say a ford 9" or 8.8

 

bastard drive shaft, custom cut

 

Sweet!

 

the key to getting one made the right length is to measure it from the center of the front u-joint to the center of the rear u-joint. that's the length to tell your shop, and tell them that's the measurement, u-joint to u-joint. Measure twice, cut once.

 

The driveshaft that's in my truck now is a two peice... does that make a difference ?

 

i would see if you can have a one piece made but it also could be to long then

 

If i had it measured correct it shouldn't matter I would think..... but will flanges for ujoints have to be from a chev or do the toyota ones work.... if they need to be chev could I use a driveshaft off a s10 or something ?

 

chevy on one end, toyota on the other.

 

What if using a ford rearend