Further update: So bleeding the pressure off above the proportioning valve only released slight pressure. The rears would lock up shortly after this. Also, when bled above, I then loosened the rear line and it bled more pressure.

Ordered a adjustable proportioning valve and just going to bypass the stock one and add this to the line this weekend.

Just an odd story here. So trying to isolate the problem I decided to disconnect the rear line from the prop valve and plug the output. I did this, then pumped the pedal to check for leaks and had to pull it out and teflon tape it. Put it back in and pumped the pedal and had no leaks. I tied the rear line up so it would rattle while I drove. Next morning went to leave and my truck refused to start. Nothing but a click. Checked battery, checked starter, pushed in clutch( not typically required to start my truck) pushed in brake, combination of the two and nothing. So only thing I changed was disconnecting the real line and plugging the valve. Put this back to normal and presto, truck fired right up. Got to work, was explaining to my toyota buddy and it made no sense. Went outside and disconected the line. Didn't bring the plug though. But truck fired right up once again. Is there any way plugging the prop valve and pumping the brake pedal could cause the truck not to start? Sorry for the long winded post.

 

Ok, after many more this and thats, the brakes are working properly. Wasn't the prop valve after all. Ordered some wagner wheel cylinders and a Wagner master cylinder after the two "cheap" options were both wrong design.

Not sure if it was the "cheap" wheel cylinders or the master was going out. It was leaking slightly where the booster plunger goes into it.

Lessons learned, that I should have known. Make the parts people get you the quality parts. And when working on something this old and not knowing it's complete history, replace all the parts of the system your working on for good measure.

Thanks to all that chimed in with recommendations.

 

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