I didn't machine the hub of the flywheel. I only machined the back surface of it as that's all I could dig up on another 4Runner 1uz swap on a 4Runner forum. Did not install it with a spacer.

Please let me know what you find man, thanks.
And after I machined the flywheel I put it on and made sure the starter gear was coming out freely and not hitting any of the gears on the flywheel. This was before I mounted the clutch and transmission for the first time.
when the starter gear is fully extended it lined up with the gears on the flywheel so I figured I was good there.

 

Sorry for getting back late. Had to dig a ruler small enough to show the measurements. Can never find my calipers when I need them.

Stock flywheel hub is 3/4" thick.


Machined to 1/2" thick.


Stock


Machined


It's possible that these flywheels have some dimensional tolerances between manufacturers. I just noticed than the oem flywheel I have now will not need machining behind the ring gear but the one I bought 2 years ago definately had more meat behind the gear and needed to be cut there.

I give this illustration to my machinist with my flywheels to prevent any confusion.


It's best to give final dimensions since I believe some flywheels are slightly different depending on manufacturer. Check the thickness of the hub to be sure it's 1/2"
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Thank you very much man. I'll look into this today!

 

This is mine looked like the day I got it back from the shop. I'll pull off today and measure it.

 

Yeah, It looks like that hub needs a little more material removed but measure to be sure.

But.... your flywheel looks like the oem flywheel I have in the pic when looking at the machining marks around the shoulder of the hub. The older modified flywheel in my pic does not have that same machining there and that's the one I had to cut the meat from behind the ring gear to clear the webbing on the engine block.

Yeah measure the thickness of the hub to be sure.

 

So I got around pulling the transmission today after work. This is what I found


The clutch hub chewed a good portion of material off the TOB collar.

 

Figured it out and it feels good! Last week I after pulling the transmission, I had the flywheel taken back to the machine shop and found out they actually removed a little too much material off the back.

I still don't understand how that would have cause the clutch disk to make contact with the TOB. Anyways they made me a thin spacer to fix the specs. I wanted to install the transmission as fast as I could to make sure the spacer was gonna fix my issue, didn't remember to take a picture. Picture the OE flywheel spacer but way thinner.

Installed it and I had the same issue. But this time, it was in the clutch pedal. I wasn't getting the air out all the way. After trying all afternoon Friday, later that evening I pulled the transmission again smh. Then inspected the release bearing and noticed the slave cylinder could only came out so far till it was stopped my the retainer.

I removed the spring and used the Slave cylinder to push the piston all the way back in. This flushed the fluid out all the access air and fluid that was in there. I also ended up making a spacer that went between the piston and the Slave cylinder, which pushed the TOB forward prior to installing it. Upon slapping the tyranny back on, the slave cylinder compressed the spring when the Bearing made contact with the fingers on the pressure plate pushing the TOB further down/ backwards. Went to bleed the clutch and ran into another air removal issue. Like when does it stop!!?? I couldn't feel the any pressure in the clutch pedal no matter how much I pumped the pedal.

Well I took a step back, got creative and I ended up bleeding my clutch with compressed air. Yep!! One man's job, and was the easiest thing. Ask me about the details. After that, I started the truck up and while it was still on the jack stands, I was able to access all of my 5 gears easily.

Rewind to a week ago, I got a package from Belltech, and I installed the lowering kit while I was brainstorming on how I was gonna get pass the clutch issue. The kit been installed for the past week. This is what the looks like right now

.

By the time I figured out the clutch last night it was too late fir a test drive as I have no lights and the truck is really loud. This morning I went back to the garage, lowered the jack stands and took it around the block. Shifted fine.

When I got back, I noticed that the tranny wouldn't go into reverse without grinding. So I adjusted the pushrod on the master and got some extra travel on the clutch pedal and now it goes into reverse just fine.

Did a few burnouts too but i was unable to record it.

I have no power steering right now so driving with one hand and holding the camera in the other is a bit of a bitch. But I'm back where I left off. Hopefully the nightmares are over because I want to be done with this thing by the end of June. There he is.



Next up will be the ECU. I had all the caps replaced, but I still can't get my cel to flash in diagnostic mode. I'll put in a few hours tomorrow and see if I can dig up something.

 

Forgive me on the poor recording guys my fuel pump ECU connection went loose I had to out the phone away to reach it;/.

 

Glad you got the clutch stuff figured out. Always something whenever a vehicle has a lot of mods.
What size tires you running?

 

Yea man, that was a bit of a headache.
But I'm good now. I'm most likely going to be running 205/50/15. The tires on the truck right now are 225/60/15.

 

Just a little update, over the past weeks I been doing little things on the truck like installing the 4Runner fenders, doing more wiring trying to get my cluster to work,
.

Today I got my wheels and had them test fitted.



I was gonna try to patch and repair the rust on the bed

but I found a rust free bed on Craigslist I'll be picking up this Friday. Once I get the bed, I'll officially start my body work this weekend. I still need to figure out why my CEL is constantly on and my ECU won't go into diagnostic mode. I'll be getting a new ECU to try here within a week or two. If I don't run into any major issues I'll get the truck painted next weekend. The goal is to put this thing on the road my the end of the month. Let's go!!

 

Let's go!

Good luck Bro. Can't wait!

 

Me neither hahaha!

 

I recorded this video yesterday but it took a while to post.

 

That's awesome. I'm such a slacker. The only thing I've done on my project recently is get a wiring FSM and some Ford Exploder wheels from the local pull a part.

 

you gotta get it going man..

 

Updates guys, it's been a long long week.
Last weekend I got the used bed. No rust, but by looking at some details somebody did some work on it before. A bad one at that rate.

There were cracked paint spots on the driver's side of the bed that I wanted to patch up. But as I grind the spots I kept digging through body filler. Later hit the original color of the bed which was banana yellow. So the guy that did the work on the bed didn't sand off the original paint. Instead he had body filler put on top of the original paint, and then repainted the entire bed blue. I ended up stripping the entire left side of the bed down to bare metal and started the repairs from scratch.

Today I got around sanding it down. The damn pic won't upload. I still have a few more repairs to do and it will be ready for priming. Last night I completed my exhaust and took the wheels to a local shop to have my tires mounted.


As you can see this is what it looks and sounds like.

 

Sorry guys I'll take time to put those pictures back up. I was freeing some photobucket space and must have deleted them.

 

Awesome build! Truck looks and sounds great!

 

Thanks boss!