No takes fellas??

 

Clutch in backwards?

 

Lol definitely not..! It wouldn't be possible to install this clutch backwards base on the design of the clutch.
Unless somebody didn't know what they were doing and didn't give a F***.

 

Just asking because those are the same symptoms as one backwards. Trust me people have done it.
Have you contacted toyotav8.com?
Looking at it again it seems like something is not spaced out correctly. That part of the hydro bearing is stationary. It never moves or rotates.
The collar is disengaging the clucth when mounting the transmission as you stated. Take the pressure plate off mount it over the bearing you should be able to compress it but i know i have seen this issue before with that pressure plate and bearing combination.

 

Okay, will try that.

 

That's a no go, I replaced all the caps in the ECU and I am still unable to get the ECU into diagnostic mode. Is there something else I can try, or check? With the key on engine off, the Cel stays solid lit with the diagnostic terminals connected.
Cel stays lit when the engine is running.
When I start the car I have to keep my foot on the gas for a min or two before it will stay running by itself. This had not always happened.
When I first built the engine and put things together, I didn't have a check engine light and the truck started right up. I did expected the light to come on at some point because I was still trying to figure out how to route my Sub o2 sensor wires during this time. Well the light finally came on after letting the truck idle for a while and won't go off. Because I can't pull the codes at the moment, I don't known what type of codes I have in there. This is really slowing me down, sucks to come this far and keep going in circles.

Im also still trying to figure out my clutch situation. I Called the supra store which is where I got my adaptor plate and that was a dead end. Not to give them a bad or anything, but The guy I talked to was very rude, and not helpful at all. So I'm on my own at this point. Any help will be appreciated.

 

I haven't started the swap yet, but could your input shaft length/adapter plate be incompatible?

Taken from toyotav8.com:

***on the R150 2WD transmission found in many Toyota trucks came with two input shaft lengths pre- 1996 and 1996 and up. Pre-1996 is not compatable with this adaptor plate.*** ***Correct input shaft length is roughly 7 1/2" from the face of the transmission. The short style is roughly 6 1/4" or 30 mm shorter. Be sure to check you input shaft length before buying. If you have the short Length input shaft then this is the adapter you need. http://www.1uzfeswapkit.com/1UZ-FE-Bellhousing-to-toyota-R150-R150F-and-R151F-Transmissions-0000-0030.htm

 

I'm actually using a w58 transmission :/

 

Yeah, i'm just throwing ideas out there...But since toyota clearly doesn't identify their transmissions with ID tags, I completely ignore the "R150" part of that quote...I would be measuring my input shaft and buying the corresponding adapter since it's not cheap....and i am, lol.

The part of the release bearing that is being chewed up....Is that stationary and the actual bearing extends beyond that to depress the pressure plate?

 

If that release bearing collar is stationary, it would appear to me, that the marring is from the friction disc(directly connected to the input shaft) is making quite a bit of contact with the collar and possibly applying a preload... as in, pushing the friction disc against the flywheel...So, when the clutch pedal is depressed, even if the release bearing released the pressure on the pressure plate, maybe its the collar that is still applying the preloaded pressure to the friction disc, in essence when you bolt up the transmission, the clutch is always engaged?

Make sense? It does to me, but its not staring me in the face and i don't have the swap experience you have under your belt.... yet

Get desperate and grind some of that meat off the face of the friction disc...Before it eats the collar off the release bearing, lol.

 

Sorry for all the replies, i just want to see more of this thing! I hate being held up on my own projects.

Just re-read 90DailyDriven's post...And looked at the pics for the hundredth time.

If that collar is being chewed up on the fingers of the pressure plate, i don't see how the bearing has enough "throw" to release pressure.

Grind some fingers and shim the base of the release bearing for more throw?

Shots in the dark buddy

 

Good luck and let us know what you find... I hope you have a trans jack?

The last clutch I did was a 4wd and I lowered it via straps and a regular jack... Had to lift it into place to put it back!

Chipped a front tooth when I dropped a wrench while working on the trans bolts...all fun stuff!

Can't imagine doing that job 3-4 times over chasing symptoms like these, lol.

I feel for ya.

 

Hey man. As far as the clutch issue, you didn't use the flexplate spacer with the flywheel did you?

 

No I didn't. I'm using a 4Runner V6 flywheel, and clutch setup. I had the machine shop stretch out the bolt holes to match the UZ crank pattern, and machined 5/16" worth or material off the back of the flywheel. Installed it with no spacer. Those were the only mods I was able to dig up on the 4Runner flywheel so I don't know:/.

 

After machining, did the thickness of the flywheel surface that bolts to the crank equal 1/2" ?

 

I honestly didn't check that. Trusted my guy at the machine shop on the 5/16" removal mod. Considering that's all I thought I needed, I didn't hesasitate to be sure I was good. Is that how thick the flywheel is supposed to be? Cuz that right there will explain my clearance issue if it ain't. And will that be the thickness for the overall diameter only (front to back surface thickness outer surface) or it also applies the center bore of the flywheel...

 

I have a stock and a modified v6 4runner flywheels at home. I'll check this evening. I vaguely remember the hub being 1" thick. If the hub was machined to the correct thickness, the material just behind the ring gear would also have to be machined to clear the webbing on the block. Any issues with starter gear engagement?