As many as u can find its a good practice to clean them up I'd look for we're the fuel pump is grounded probably some were in the back ...and replace the filter it could be a simple as that clogged filter choking the supply or straining the pump

 

Seems simple enough.. I'll look into those! Thanks!

 

Yeah, id do this first....^

But if you run out of ideas, FYI the idle cut solenoid NEEDS power to stay OPEN... So just disconnecting the harness will kill the engine at idle.

If one of the wires losses ground or power on the idle cut solenoid while driving, it will run like crap and wont idle.... Outright bogging and dying while driving could be a combination of things.

When my idle cut solenoid was acting up i was able to keep it running and jump a wire from the battery over to either the neg or pos wire on the harness to see which one was losing contact somewhere in the harness... Then i just ran my own wire for whichever one it was ( ground or key'd power).

 

I feel like a retard currently

After all my messing around freaking out that it was going to be the worst possible problem, it was the filter. Atleast that's what it looks like.

I put in a new filte and it runs so smooth. I've driven it twice for a total of about 45minutes and it never had a problem

 

Good deal the cheapest and simplest things can give big headaches sometimes

 

Now I just need to figure out my charge light issue.. That's for another day

 

Usually charge lights are on because the external or internal voltage regulator is failing or the alternator is failing . Or is seeping ac current into the dc system . Wich means alternator failure

But one step at a time it may last for a while like that

 

It's got a new alternator and new regulator. The light flickers, and comes on and goes off sometimes long sometimes short periods of time. I think it's a short but don't know where.

 

My problem is back

I'm leaning towards the fuel pump relay. What do you all think?

 

make sure ur ignition coil is grounded very well. What motor is in there? Idk If its a 22r swap then make sure its grounded cuz the coil is case grounded. This only applies to 22r as far as I know. Lol.

 

It's a 20r but I believe it is still case grounded. Would that affect it all the time or just some times because mine will run for a few seconds then just start bogging down.. And it's not always the same amount of time.

 

When it acts up can u give it gas and clear up run smoother ..

 

When it acts up no matter how far the pedal is to the floor it just bogs, and normally ends up dieing. Sometimes it kicks back up and runs a little longer but it just repeats eventually

 

Proably gonna be on the fuel delivery side of things Check the fuel pump relay for corrosion

 

Yeh 20r also. Try check the connection to the body. Clean it up n reboot it down. It's only 2 bolts. I had something like this when I relocated mine on the fender well. Thought it was my carb n fuel but it was this!

 

Ill have to check it out. Thanks!

 

had the same issue in my '88 with 2bl carb, ended up being that the previous owner rerouted the fuel line when he replaced the fuel pump. the new fuel line was a bit longer than original, so when he rerouted it, the turn was to tight and would end up with a kink (depending on under hood temps) which was causing my truck to "run out of gas" while driving or just idleing.

it took me a few days, but eventually i found the problem. reroutede the fuel line and no more problem.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, i will have to look at that!

Im also trying to get a new fuel pump relay, but no body has one, not even the dealerships. A friend of mine is going to help me figure out what prong does what so that I can get a different relay to use.