Wheel offsets I think you see opposite of what they are. A higher offset, the less lip on the outside as the mounting surface is farther towards the edge of the wheel.

This is a picture of my ~94 ford probe gt wheels. Something like a +38 offset, mounted with stock spindles.


This is that same setup, at full droop. They came down a bit farther than I remember them, but needless to say they still hit the ball joint cap. Something my current setup with drop spindles does not allow.


This is my "current" setup with my drop spindles. It's been rebagged and also has been stock floored since this setup, but if you look closely you can see that the ball joint comes nowhere near the wheel at full droop/full lift. Nor does the lower touch the lower portion of the wheel.

 

You are correct sir. I was mistakenly under the impression that more offset = wider track width, not the other way around.

When I was talking about clearance problems like in the previous post with the pic of my rust I was focused entirely on the lower control arm and balljoint. I suspected these as the primary problems when compressed. I actually wasn't even considering the possibility of uppers at full droop. I could definitely see how drop spindles would increase clearance for the upper CA and ball joint. How is your clearance on the lowers? Are there any tight points in turning? I based my theory off of my stock steel 14"s that are pictured in my previous post. They are not compatible with my drop spindles and if I were to run spacers to widen my track width the tires would hit my fenders. Does your friend with the 15"s have the tires sticking out under the wheel well opening past the edge of the fender?

 

We are both bagged, so no, his does not stick out past the fender lip. My lowers aren't near close enough to the lowers to worry about, I can't imagine his being either though his truck is not completed yet. I can see how your 14's wouldn't work at all, seeing as you probably had somewhere close to a 65+ series tire on those wheels which left the lip of the wheel clearly higher off the ground than his 15's with a 45 or 50 series tire. The lower you go, the less angle (or more if your bagged) your arms have. Once they lowers start pointing down towards the middle of the truck is when you will have problems. I don't doubt that spindles are a no go on stock 14's, but I am 100% sure you do not need 17's to run them. 16's work perfect.

On your steering question, yes your steering will lack especially if your still running radius arms. I had mine triangulated and still had a slight problem. No more though, we re-made them and they allow me to turn full lock to lock.

 

Well I dropped the 92 today. 4" blocks in the back, and torsions in the front so far. The torsions actually dropped the truck more than I had expected, and to me it seems like a decent ride for the height. The wheels are tucked into the wells fairly well, I like it. I'm probably going to order the LCA's soon tho, I'd like to make it a legit set up. I'm running Rancho RS5000's on the back because they are a stiff shock, I will be able to carry my bikes and shifter carts as well. I left the stock 3 leaf set up the way it is.

Wheel and tire combo's are next to come.

 

Pick of level of the truck with just the bars and blocks?... curious how low and level it looks.

 

my 85, if you look in the project threads had a leaf pulled, 3 inch blocks, and torsions twisted. But I also had 16's so it was stupid low.

 

It's on stock 14 steelies, sitting very even.

 

I'm running 15's with Belltech drop spindles and no issues. The rims I'm running atm are Toyota SR5 rims. Not sure where they came from, they were on the truck when I bought it.

 

wider track gives more stability, and more control, persay... on the track

Other than that, Positive means the mounting point is closer to the Outer side. Negative is closer to the inside.

Negative Offset wheels on a FWD car means they'll hella stick out, if done wrong.


But Positive Offset wheels on a RWD setup (like our trucks), you can try using spacers or such, but too much and it'll stick out the side of the vehicle... unless you get it Hella Flush

 

OK, I stand corrected. I wish I could pinpoint where I got this idea that I believed so wholeheartedly that I thought I should share it with the world... My bad... GrantH, apparently you were 100% correct and 15"s will work with drop spindles.

 

Actually that is the exact opposite. That's what I used to think too but it's not correct. Widening the stance on a vehicle spreads out the weight more which in effect gives less weight on each corner. Less weight on each corner will cause the vehicle to spin out easier.

LOL, not trying to make you look bad, just stating what I'm running so I know it's possible. Maybe it's only something with the Belltech spindles that 15's work. Didn't Erik mention something about his friend running Belltechs earlier?

 

oh... darn.... well... Hmm.... our trucks are already light to begin with

 

4" blocks and cranked torsion just isn't even. I want to go lower! It is a STIFF ride, I hate it!

 

When you cranked down the torsion bars in the front did you cut down or remove the bumper stops?? Also to go lower & have a some what decent ride you need to go with drop spindles or drop lower control arms.

 

Just like smctoy says, you need drop spindles. I have what you have along with drop spindles and the ride is pretty darn good. The only complaint I have is in the back but I'm still thinking one of my air shocks is pooched because it seems to bottom out on the driver's side more often. Anyway, i think you would like the ride with drop spindles.

 

LOL, didn't mean to burst your bubble.