Tub the bed and like raffaelli said a fuel cell or something along those lines. Im sure the bed is a lot of weight.

What engine you have/plan to use? then you can figure your power to weight ratio, etc, etc

 

most of my idea's have already been posted, this can get dangerous and i don't suggest it, but ever thought about swiss cheesing places in the frame or brackets that are already structurally sound? and are you over weight? sometimes you can get lighter drive shafts.. carbon fiber is always ideal over fiberglass(satan). Also if you get your batt, relocate it to the rear, that way you can help start to distribute the weight as needed. Gut the insides of the doors, remove door panels, interior, anything helps..

 

what do you guys mean by "tub the bed"?
Well i thought about "swiss Cheesing" it but i really dont think thatll be very beneficial. :/
I have the 22re with a manual trans
Well i weigh about 205 but im 6"2' so i cant lose very much im already like 15% body fat
I was looking into a lighter driveshaft but i came up empty if you guys have any info on it that would be awesome!

 

Pretty much gut the whole bed and use piping to keep it structually sound.
Like this. Scroll down
http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/viewarticle.php?id=37

Or something like this.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/3581/1001/21450500018_large.jpg

 

I had a 92 ex cab full Baja with all glass and it was lock rear end. It would get wheel hop back caz it was to light. But when I got 2 tires and a fual cell behide the axel it was all good. So you need some weight

 

Oooooh i see now.
I can peel out in all first gear cuz my trucks so light in the rear.
Thats why my future mods are traction bars and battery to the rear relocation.
I am trying to focus losing weight more on the front end than the rear.

 

Personally I could see a range of valid reasons for running a lightweight battery. I've been looking into SLA batteries like Hawker, Oddysey and DynaBatt to fit my space constraints. I am going to keep a battery in the stock location (roughly), but with the inner fenders cut out for wheel tubs for the bodydrop, there is very little room. I will be able to put one of these little 13 lb. batteries in the original location and fit the fuse box there too on top of the new inner fender.

The first one that I read about was the Dyna Batt offered from www.performancedistributors.com.

http://www.performancedistributors.com/batteries.htm

After doing a little investigating online I came across an article that has me looking at a few other options. Here is a great article on SLA batteries:

http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm

These batteries have a very low reserve time, so i will probably only run this as an engine battery and run an additional battery on an isolator in the bed for my accessories at some point down the road. It only takes twenty minutes of headlights to kill one of these batteries so I don't want to find out what a bumping system does to it. It's going to be a while before I add a system to the truck so I should be ok for now, although these batteries also need to be kept on a maintainer if the truck is not driven daily.

 

I'm no for the swiss cheesing... lol

 

Yeah so what i think my final idea is just to go with a batt from a 95 civic my buddy has one and it looks like itll work good and its a lot smaller/lighter.

 

My bmw battery is half the size of my truck battery and a hell of a bit lighter.
They are very strong to.

 

what year and model is it? and does it have the right hookups for our trucks? Also whats the engine size???

 

Different hookups but sure you can get the ends for it. Its a 03 325i

 

Hmmmm imma have to look into that

 

For sure. Good luck man