Here we go.

What's done so far.

Engine: Rebuild at 430,000, Weber 3236, emissions delete

Transmission: Rebuild at 400,000

Rear end: Fluid change at 400,000

Suspension: Rear, 3 inch belltech blocks
Front, Ball joint flip upper and lower, slightly cranked torsions

Things planned. (subject to change)

Rear air shocks for towing a small trailer. Sway bars front and rear. Mini C notch because I don't want to modify the bed and I already contact frame on large bumps . Basically going to go a little lower until I run into issues, fix said issues, rinse and repeat.

Relocate the power steering reservoir, ignition coil and fuse box to the core support. Relocate the battery to the frame under the bed (likely going to get a smaller more powerful audio focused type). Full wire tuck. Basically I want an empty engine bay and possibly tub fender wells in the future. I may even go as far as tucking the brake lines in the end. I just don't want to sacrifice creature comforts like ac and power steering. (Louisiana heat is real)

Sound system: I have one sundown 8 (hits hard af in my extended cab ranger) and four 6x9s I'd like to fit into the xtra cab (I know its tight, math on air space and port size leaves no room for error and every inch used but it'll fit). Up front I want to just replace the dash speakers with some 4 inch super tweeters. The 6x9s are gonna overpower anything I put up there anyways.

All modifications must not disturb patina. I'm not saying I'll never paint it but I really like well aged things. I will keep this patina until it forces me to rescue the truck.

 

Installed Monroe ma727 air shocks today. I'll take some pics in the morning. 25 psi lifted me one inch. No more frame contact when I hit big dips. I'll get some testing with the trailer Monday to see if they help. I haven't towed it since I installed the 3" blocks.

 

Test drive went well. No leaks. Set to 25 psi. These shocks are kinda soft compared to the previous ones. Install was simple. Direct replacement. I used an existing hole in the fuel door for the air valve.

 

I may be removing the bed this week to get everything clean and painted under it. I'm sure cleaning will be a project on its own. I have ospho for rust prep and rustolium professional gloss black rattle cans. with little to no surface rust that should be fine. I know people swear by por15 and I don't knock it but the phosphoric acid in ospho is just as good a rust remover/converter imo and you can paint over it. Por15 is just single stage all in one using tannic acid instead.

 

Welcome, seams like u got a good plan.

Have u looked into low bump stops?

If u come across a 1 ton truck for parts; grab the front and rear sway bars. They are the biggest that im aware of. If the rear really swats, may need to look into new leaf springs.

 

I have a lead on a complete 1 ton dually with a flat bed I've been trying to get for a few months now. If it all pans out this build will get a lot spicier. As far as bump stops i have been looking into short ones for the rear. The front is gonna need to stay stock bump stops until I tub the fenders or change tire size. I rub on really big dips.

 

Not much of an advantage with the dually trucks other than the sway bars right?

Energy suspension has low profile bump stops

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.9132

 

The stiffer spring rates could be a benefit as well. The idea of an xtra cab long bed dually that is dropped but can still tow it's full capacity is enticing. I've been looking into getting a travel trailer from the same vintage that I can bag to match the truck.

 

If equipped with the GO82 rear axle the dual wheels are not true full float.
Major U.S. recall of motorhomes equipped with that fake dually setup. Axle shafts will break and detach from the housing. Axle shafts are no longer available anywhere. Toyota did start providing true full float axles around 1985. They were used on the 1 ton cab and chassis 2WD. Best to check the build plate before pulling the trigger.

You can buy replacement leaf springs designed for that axle without buying the entire axle assembly. That is my recommendation.

 

Didn't 1987 and up come with the updated full float axle?

 

The dually truck I'm getting for next to nothing is an 88.

 

Should be fine. The true Toyota full float axle will have 6 lug nuts, the fake will only have 5.

If you plan on using the ff axle from the 1988 on your current truck remember it uses a special 6 lug wheel. So unless you upgrade your front hubs to 6 lug, you’ll need two different size spare tires.

 

I'm probably going to use the 6 lug hub adapters that come on the dually front wheels. I haven't decided on a direction for the bed flares yet.

 

Keep in mind that 6 lug wheel has a weird bolt pattern (6x7.25 or 7.50 ?)
There are no stylish wheels made to fit that bolt pattern. Factory painted steel wheels is what you’ll have to use. Just an FYI.

 

There are wheel shops that will "fill and drill" a new bolt pattern on alloys. Although, it will then depend on center bore and mounting pad size/shape. And steelies can be widened if desired.

 

The whole purpose of the ff axle is to gain the strength of true dual wheels.
There are companies that will make custom wheels, but it can cost thousands.
Remember, the 6 lug front wheel gets flipped backwards to fit on the rear axle.
Things like maintaining the correct spacing and offset becomes critical.

People with Toyota motorhomes have tried. Custom manufactured wheels are the only way it can work.

Some have powder coated the wheels in bright silver so to look like chrome. The design itself is very utilitarian.

 

I'll always have steelies. Even if I went with aftermarket wheels they'd be steelies. Factory is fine for me.

 

From what I see those wheels are really rare and expensive to replace if you damage one. Used ones are going for $350 each on ebay. Custom steelies direct from diamond in any lug pattern or finish you chose are cheaper than that.

 

True. But if your donor has 6 wheels(possibly 7 with spare) wouldn’t it be cheaper to source one additional wheel for $350 rather than buying 7 new wheels? Just curious.