I still haven't narrowed mine yet, trying to figure out what all is involved in narrowing the 8.8. I found custom length axles in Jegs for around $330 ish, and i'm guessing i just have to remove the stock ones, shorten the tubes or have them shortened and i'm done. Looks like that will be the next thing i do to my truck.

 

Just curious, this thread suggests 95-01 because of the disc brakes, but is there a difference in the 02 and on rear axles? Thanks.

 

I know it says that these rears will pretty much "drop in", but what about the e-brake connection? Is there any type of modification needed for that?

 

Any help on these two questions?

 

Figured I'd bump this thread since I used it as a guide for my 8.8 install.

I used the stock toyota leaf spring plates and just milled out (drill press works) a little over a quarter inch of each hole to allow the ford u-bolts to fit. The only ford parts I used here were the u-bolt and nuts, I used the toyota washers. I didn't like the idea of the shock hanging on by a small tab and the stock spring plates are damned thick and I'd rather just mill that out a little bit. So the shocks mount up just like they would from factory.

I'm using the brake lines that came w/ the rear end for now, I'd recommend going ahead and replacing these parts when you do it, this was a spur of the moment swap for me so I didn't think about this before I started. The fittings for the calipers are banjo fittings... I'm going to try to find a metric (braided stainless steal ) set up to eliminate the need for mixing up standard and metric brake fittings. Wish me luck on that.

While I was at it I replaced the load sensing proportioning valve w/ a manual valve due to the OEM part failing and after much research the manual valve being the best option. This would also eliminate ANY welding being needed for this swap. Tilton makes a 10mm metric valve so there's no need for adapters. Tilton 90-2003 PROPORTION. VALVE SCREW : Amazon.com : Automotive I'll try to remember to get pictures once I make a bracket for it from the original LSPV bracket.

I'm waiting on my drive shaft to get here for testing, should update soon w/ more thoughts.

For the e-brake, no idea right now, I haven't had an ebrake in the truck for over a decade really but do plan to get it working. Most likely it wont be w/ the stock handle and more car like, in between the seats.

 

Thanks for the update and little new info. I have wen under plenty of explorers and I think in 02 they went to a 4 link and coils, so that's prob why a 95-01 is suggested.

As for using this trick on older body styles, width will just be an enemy to handle. For us 74-78 owners, its 58-3/8" vs 53". Hell of a lot of extra width. The only way I see it being an option is to take the extra width and run with it. Get some huge flares and stretch the bed sides.

My next project will have just that, shooting for a 72" rear width. Stock is 62". This is right about 87-92 supra IRS width with a similar diff and brake setup. I will probably still go that route for floor clearance.

 

Should have mentioned that my truck is a '89 so the axle literally does just drop right on to the leaf spring locating dowel pins. Right now I have mustang 17"x9" 25mm offset wheels w/ 255-50-17 tires. They stick out about a half inch, if you don't need a tire that fat and have a deeper offset wheel they shouldn't stick out at all.

Just wanted to thank the rajzswap for this thread, hopefully he's still a member here.

 

Found that Wilwood also has a 10mm x1 proportioning valve but at less than half the cost of the Tilton one. Again this would be if you decide to ditch the Toyota load sensing valve. http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-12627

Still trying to find options for braided lines to replace the rubber ford lines. They're fine for now but would like braided lines as I already have them on the front.

Everything is hooked up and set up for now and was able to lay some elevens today. I did this swap at the same time as the 4 piston 4x4 caliper + wilwood disc up front and now it feels like a modern car when trying to stop. No more feeling like it doesn't have enough brakes.

I want to get the braided lines done and do another flush and bleed w/ better fluid and call it a done w/ the brakes. Love keeping this old truck on the road and able to easily hang w/ more modern steel.

Next to figure out how to get a better steering system

 

amazing write up! I'm building up to a 2WD 2jzgte '89 (it is mostly stock daily at the moment, starting come spring) and this will definitely ease the axle swap.

@Charlo - I'm really interested to hear about your front brake conversion. Sounds like we have a similar project direction. I'm on belltech drop spindles and 2wd, but as you said, some added stopping power would be nice.

 

Right now I found that the brake lines for the ~2002 wrx work to replace the factory ford lines. So right now I'm using the factory TOYOTA rear hard line w/ braided lines from goodridge for the pickup which only has three "soft lines" and then a set for the wrx which has 4 soft lines but you'll only use two for the rear. Maybe get w/ a buddy that's also doing this swap. The f/r lines aren't exactly the same, but the fittings are the same so you can use either front or rear.

I've started to daily drive this for winter, and love the fact I can actually accelerate from a stop in the wet now. Last year was a freaking nightmare to drive w/ too much power + wet + open diff.


And now that I've been driving it daily I noticed the drivers side shaft is bent, so the wheel has a slight wobble and you can feel the vibration ~55mph. So I just take the slow roads into work until I get my new shafts in, decided to go ahead and upgrade both while I'm in the axle again. So, before you install this and do all of the work, make sure your shafts are straight if you're buying a used diff.

 

Im getting ready to do this swap. For the drive shaft do I need to have one custom made to mate the 8.8 or is there a flange adapter out there that I could use with the stock drive shaft?

 

I know this is three months too late but you need a new shaft made. There's most likely a shop close to you that can do it, if not thedriveshaftshop.com has great products and not really much more than what a local shop would charge.

 

Thanks, I did some searching and found a u joint that allowed me to use the toy's driveshaft and connect it to the flange. Two caps from the u joint were for the drive shaft and the other two connected to a flange adapter that uses 1310 u joints. I bought the u joint at lowrangeoffroad.com and the 1310 flange from amazon in case any one wants to go this route. The flange adapter part # is 2-2-1379.