I know a little about the Frankenstein 6m. Their are 2 ways to go about it, 7m block/crank, with 5m rods/pistons/head. You can also go 5m block, 7m pistons/rods/head. I forget which way it was, but one of the 2 would require machining on the crank pulley due to the front cover.

 

I prefer the 5m head 7m block setup. Longer stroke to go from 2.8 to 3.0 liter. Same piston size, but diff valve clearances for the extra valves the 7m had. You can use a 7m crank in a 5m block but you have to notch the block for the longer crank throw. Only real benefit is either building a carbed motor more simply; or making a better long block to throw into a 2nd gen supra under stock head configuration.

Either way, I wanna see this thing done.

 

As do I! Gonna order my head studs and fuel pump soon, after that I should have pretty much everything I need to get it going. Other than a drive shaft anyway.

 

FAQ started, updating as I go.

http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-39/r-series-7m-swap-faq-18261/#post192415

 

Heres the shifter location. Factory truck crossmember will not work. I had to butcher a Supra crossmember to make this work..





Braced, and boxed in. Trans now mounted.

 

Coming along nice. I like the crossmember.

 

Had to do a little cutting and grinding, but the rad finally has space, at first it wouldn't fit between the crank pulley and the rad support.




Hood still shuts fine.

Finally converted it to 5 speed, took like 20 minutes.

 

Looking good! It should be running in no time huh. As for the pedal, looks like ya popped the plug out and bolted it up. Simple enough. I dig it.

 

Well it was a little more difficult. The clutch master has a stud in the bottom hole, trucks have a nut welded to the body for the autos. Had to cut it off and grind it down, other than that direct fit. Auto truck even had the bracket up top for the pedal. Pretty nifty.

 

Cool. They didn't change much on these trucks. They always tried to make things as universal as possible. It's pretty rad.

 

Agreed. Oh, I ordered my 3'' blocks and a few other things last night, should see them soon.

 

Not much to report. Just been swapping over good parts. Got the marker lights removed from the old valence, so I shot my new valence with paint and bolted them on. Looks nice. Oh Byker, can you do me a favor? Can you get a pic of how the grill is supposed to mount? I'm missing clips or something, I have like a 2'' gap between my grill and hood when it's shut. No idea why, I must have dropped a clip or something on install.

When I was removing the old ignition switch (No key) I happen to notice some messed up wires. Someone decided to bypass the plug, soooo I had to cut it from my '78. (I F'in love buying a parts vehicle!). It's soldered, heat shrinked, conduit coated.





I also have some room now since I removed all the useless 20R goods.

 

I'm looking at your grille gap, it seems to be mounted right. I broke my clips and used zip ties. Your core support looks bent a little, and the plastic may have changed a little from year to year. You can probably tweak the metal tabs to suck the grille in tighter.

Looking good otherwise.

 

I'll try that, and thanks. I bet he bent the rad support removing the 20R.. he only had a tractor, and removed it for me while I was at work.. I bet he pulled it out. Fu.. I'll see what I can do. I plan to finish patching the battery area this weekend, along with ordering more. I have to replace the brake booster while I do the headgasket. If it were to fail, the ENTIRE upper intake has to come off. No room I tell ya lol. It's just ARP studs to order, OEM headgasket (I have), fuel, wiring, and a driveshaft now. Should be rolling by at most March. I'm just ready to see how it reacts to stop and go in the rain. I anticipate some spin, yet hope for no wheel hop.

 

Installed my 3'' blocks in the back, plan to do a 3.5'' front drop tomorrow. I might have to do a hair bit of rolling, if I stand in the bed the tire barely touches.

 

When you swap master and booster go to an 81 era type. Uses a 4 bolt master like newer yotas so if you ever make brake upgrades you can change master diameter easily. The booster is also narrower but a little longer. Reuse the little spacer plate from the stock booster to clear the firewall pinch weld behind the booster. I have an 81 master/booster. Lines and pedal hooked right up.

 

I want those wheels! I ended up with these for now...

 

And I want your fender badges, haha. Yeah, it took me forever to find this set of rims. I plan to paint the centers black and polish the lips on them. Some ding-bat painted the drivers rear one, so I have to strip it some time. =/ I have 2 more 16x9's, but I'm going to cut my brown truck in half, lower it, and make a trailer that matches the truck. The truck and a matching trailer will be cool to roll up in at meets. I'm not gonna get anything done today, it's 11:14 and 25 degrees. =/

 

Decided to go out in the cold and work in it anyway, I hate getting nothing done because of weather. I'm building a shop soon so I can get something done. Anyway, I cut the springs from my brown truck, 3 coils. That was a good 3-3.5'' of drop. All 4 shocks are blown, so I might be taking another half coil or so off if it tries to rise back up.

 

Our trucks are pretty close to the same height!

If you have done so yet, your gonna want to fold up the lip on the fender! Mine rubbed every time I turned into a driveway or hit a bump turning..