Afraid of that. A lot of debate if any are safe. But its agreed the slip in style with longer studs is the way to do it if you have to.

 

Agreed. I think 5mm is the thickest id go without swapping studs

 

I didn't even think that style was offered is such a small of a size. Not much room to capture the lug before it becomes a hole it could go through. Mostly see guys running those trying to make up a ridiculous amount of space.

 

Yes, I arbitrarily posted the original stud dimensions. The ones that come with the spacer would be longer, which is a potential weakness I might think?

 

I would think that them being weaker is going to be minimal. It's not like 10mm adds a bunch of leverage.

 

Once everything is torqued down it basically becomes like one piece. Its not like you ate putting all the weight/pressure on the very ends of the studs

 

Yeah, I feel just fine about using a 10mm slip on spacer to correct the offset. The only other question then is how far out does the center flange on the disc hub come out. If it's taller than 10mm then I’d need a flat one without a flange extension.

Between this and the ss hoses, this project just got a bit spendier.

 

Dont forget about the hardlines

 

Yeah, I had just assumed new ones. I can’t decide if I want to try to buy them premade, or get tubing to fabricate them myself.

 

Hah, I’ve opened quite a can of worms here. As I figure it, the disc project is about 2x the cost in parts of replacing the original system, and quite a bit more work. However, I think it’s going to make me a lot happier with this truck in the long run. Hell, it’s got this monstrous engine in it, so it only makes sense to help it stop better as well.

 

You can get the pre flared lengths of line at the parts store.

How far is Tumwater WA from you, theres a 77 there at the pick n pull

 

[QUOTE="jetas, post: 238222, member: 1097
How far is Tumwater WA from you, theres a 77 there at the pick n pull[/QUOTE]

Ah, good to know! I think I saw that in a recent part search. It’s only about 2 hours North, and a good excuse to visit my Seattle peeps.

 

Ah, good to know! I think I saw that in a recent part search. It’s only about 2 hours North, and a good excuse to visit my Seattle peeps.[/QUOTE]
If you can get the spindles and calipers from that one you can find the rebuild kit on rockauto for the calipers and save some $$

 

If you can get the spindles and calipers from that one you can find the rebuild kit on rockauto for the calipers and save some $$[/QUOTE]

DAMN! Just missed it. It was crushed yesterday.

 

DAMN! Just missed it. It was crushed yesterday.[/QUOTE]
Well that fckin blows.

 

Well that fckin blows.[/QUOTE]

Wow really! I was thinking I might as well go and get the hood even tho it might not work. It was under 50 bucks.

 

Yeah, what a drag. I was hyped to find one in driving distance. I have several misc bits I’d love to score.

Luckily I think I found some spindles/knuckles/hubs close to home.

 

Wow really! I was thinking I might as well go and get the hood even tho it might not work. It was under 50 bucks.[/QUOTE]

I'm curious if the later hood would work. They seem to be the same sheet metal, without the T badge on the front, but I haven't had the chance to examine the hinge mounting to compare.

 

Supposedly the hoods are the same minus the Emblem on the early trucks.

il say this, fenders are slightly different in the area behind the bumper.

door hinges are slightly different but im pretty sure the doors are identical

 

From what I read the later hood will not latch on an early model because the core support is different.