You should just go with a glasspack.. Cheap and simple, and to me it made my truck sound real good!

Whatever way you go I hope you like it!

 

Magnaflow.

 

I had one on my 78 and it sounded great 98% of the time but that was huge 2% that annoyed me. When I'd let off the throttle over 4k rpm it'd buzz like a whole swarm of pissed off bees.

No. Not that they sound bad but it would have to be about 14" long over all and that would just be fawking annoying. But yes, whatever I put on there I'll either have to love it or live with it since my ol lady won't smile about me dumping a $130 muffler.

This one is perfect for my space constraints.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bor-40351/overview/

 

I run 2 mufflers hush power small sounds really good just by it self it's resonator and glass steel wool absorbing muffler all in one


flow master bought the company that was making them and frankly is was a good idea

hence why they sell glass/steel wool muffler's in there line up now instead of there reg resonator base mufflers

I have never been a fan of borla they make cheep ****ty welded mufflers

 

I ended up putting a glasspack in front of a flowmaster years ago on my wheeler since it was exceptionally loud and there wasn't much body to block the noise. It actually sounded good but I don't have the room this time.


I'm thinking borla purely for the sound. I can't say I've heard one on a 4 cylinder but they sound fantastic on a V8 so I'm willing to give it a go.

 

That would be terrible! Mine is the longest one I could find, I thinks it 24 or 28inches long..

 

Browsing all possibilities at summitracing.com and I just remembered I have a pair of flowtech terminator mufflers that I pulled off my old wheeler waaaaay back in the day and put on my dads 2 ton dump bed. It's going to be scrapped so the mufflers are fair game.

 

never had that issue with a magnaflow. Stock mani > front pipe > gutted cat > 2" > 2.25" > 2.5" magnaflow offset inlet, offset outlet and it exits out the left side between the frame and leaf spring.



Maybe that's just me.

 

Polished stainless magnaflow, center in/out with a LCE pro large tube header. No cat, all 2 1/4" tube and mandrel bends to get the pipe up and over the axle exiting straight out the back. I really loved the sound of it except when decelerating. It just had this odd buzz to it.

 

Im running a Vibrant bottle resonator in front of a Magnaflow muffler, sounds great with no rasp or buzz at all.

Amazon.com: Vibrant 1792 Bottle Style Resonator: Automotive


Amazon.com: Magnaflow 10415 Satin Stainless Steel 2.25" Round Muffler: Automotive

 

here my exhuast 2 mufflers thou

22re headmen flowmaster hushpower and magnaflow 2 - YouTube

22re headmen flowmaster hushpower and magnaflow 2 - YouTube

22re all tuned up - YouTube

 

Unfortunately I don't have the room for either of those.

Sounds good, basically like my magnaflow under full throttle.


I think I'm going to cut down a glasspack to use like a resonator exhaust tip. I cut a 36" glasspack down to 8" and put it on my nephews geo "metrosexual" commuter and it actually sounds sweet.

 

Finally got off my ass and put the W58 in tonight. 5th gear is awesome!


There was a bushing in the trans that was shot so the shifter was super sloppy when I pulled it out of my other truck. Knocked the bushing out, welded a piece of 3/4" pipe in place of the wasted bushing and oh what a difference! That along with the new shifter seat bushing makes for a super crisp shifting action. Now I just need to make a short shift spacer and it'll be ridiculous.

 

Finally took the time to do something besides remove rubber from the rear tires last night.


I swapped in a set of bucket seats that I picked up a couple years ago. I think they're from an older supra.

But the best thing I did was finally move the battery to the bed. That in itself is no big deal but the factory cables and grounds were CRAP. Now I'm running 00 grounds, audio grade 4 gauge power to the starter and 10 gauge to the fuse box. It's amazing what clean power will do. The truck runs a bit better and starts immediately rather than turning over a handful of times before it fires.

 

huh you taking about the plastic nylone bushing in the shift ball socket? or the upper one for the seat of the shifter

 

There was a thin bushing much like an a arm bushing with a metal sleeve outside, rubber then an inner metal sleeve where the tip of the shift handle goes into the trans. Someone long before me had worn out the nylon bushing on the end of the handle and the metal tip had worn through the inner metal sleeve. So whenever I would replace the nylon bushing it would be grabbed by the pieces of metal and get pulled off the handle. Someone on here had found an aluminum sleeve that replaced the factory rubber/steel bushing but I couldn't find one. The pipe is a perfect fit though, I've never had a tighter toyota shifter.

I did replace the seat bushing too with one out of the original 4 speed. Fit like a glove into the W58.

 

Aahh thats what I figured not sure why toyota did that cuase they get trashed once the upper socket bushing dies

 

Yup it was a sloppy where before with both bushings being trashed. Now I need to make a short throw shifter for it. I have 1/2 and 1" uhmw to make the spacer out of but I'm not sure which to use. I'm leaning towards the 1".


This weekend I should have the time to put my fuel cell and electric pump on the truck.

 

There's a guy on celica sites named billy m that makes a derlin bushing to replace that 3 piece stock one. Your concept is the same. Eliminate the rubber. My old W52 doesn't seem to have that. Lottle diff design. I just cut the shift arm way down and its a short throw even with old bushings.

 

is it something like these? i was looking into thse because my shifter is loose when in gear, with left to right movement.



Heavy Duty Shift Lever Ball Seats | Marlin Crawler, Inc.