I had a marlin crawler HD 1600lb clutch kit with a lightened stock flywheel behind my built 22r, and it was a good daily setup(wasn't too much stiffer of a pedal) and grabbed super hard when needed

 

For $100 it's pretty fawking sweet. Absolutely a worthy piece.

I had a marlin 1600HD in my old wheeler, it used the same pressure plate. This one just has a fancy yellow rattle can paint job and a couple stickers slapped on it.

I don't see how you could go wrong with a lighter flywheel and a good clutch. I ran a RAM dual friction clutch in the 78 on a stock flywheel and it was nice but I really wish it got a 9 lb flywheel now that the 90 has one.

 

I think the only time I wouldn't run a lightened flywheel is if it had a huge cam, just because then the sporadic idle might be too much and it wouldn't have the extra momentum keeping it going.. but nobody has a cam like that in a 4 banger

 

If the carb is tuned right the idle will stay high enough to idle.

On a rig that's strictly used for crawling I'd run a heavier flywheel. If i build another wheeling rig it will get the same clutch setup I have now for instant wheel speed in the mud and rocks. If i rup the same dual ultimate cases as the last truck there will be more than enough gear reduction to compensate for a light rotating assembly.

 

I just made my own shifter

 

I really thought about it but this time of year I'm more busy than a one legged dude in an ass kicking contest so time to tinker is very scarce. As it was I had a surprise day off due to rain so I wasn't forced to do all the work tonight before this weekends events in a thrash fest.

 

I've had some nasty noises coming from the trans ever since I installed the clutch and shifter. I tracked it down the the shifter handle and today I found out why. The handle I'd used was for a later model 4x4 W56 so the pivot ball was a bit larger and I didn't notice. The hootus on the underside of the pivot ball was also too long so the little extender piece included with the shifter was in constant contact with the trans shifter arm doohicky.

My solution was to cut the hootus off the handle with the wrong sized ball and also cut it off the new correct handle at the right spot to get the correct length. The stock w58 stick is 3/4" from the pivot to the end of the hootus and the old handle was 1 1/4" so you see my issue.



Problem solved.

I also cut and rebuilt the handle to change the angle of the dangle so now the stick is at a much nicer angle and position.

 

I would have left more weld on it instead of grinding it all off hope ya used a 220 at least

 

If he V'ed it he should be fine.

 

I'm taking it easy for now but yes it's beveled more than 50% of its diameter and I cranked my sp 140 c Lincoln welder up to nuke. I forgot to take tubing to sleeve it with me to my brothers place where my welder lives. I'll be finishing it off properly for sure.


Today my ignition goes in. I can do that in the driveway so I brought those parts home last night. I left my rotors, brake pads, adjustable proportioning valve, stockpile of lines and fittings and a full set of urethane bushings for the front of the truck at my brothers place. I need to spend a loooong day up there on the lift to get all that crap installed.

 

I have made ved one befor and cranked my 120 to max and it broke becuase 120 does not have the snot to melt what ever toyota used for metal so be warned i had more then one break and these were all shortened shaft so there was less levage

 

Shorter on the top and longer on the bottom exerts less leverage on the bottom. That's exactly what I did so it should be fine.

My welder isn't going to punch holes in 3/8 plate but it burns 1/4" perfectly so I'm not all that concerned with it. If it breaks once I've sleeved it then I'll either take it to work and use one of our lincoln 256's or have a buddy tig it on his big machine.

 

Just ordered up a pair only tires for the front of the truck. The all seasons up front are 420 tread wear and the rears are 380. The rears are big enough that they hook up really well, the front push and don't hook for shiat. If these tires hook up well then I'll be running them all the way around real soon since they are CHEAP!

Thunderer mach 2's, now if that don't sound like the name of a craptastic chicom tire I don't know what does, but heck for $68 a piece I'll give them a go. I'll have 195/55/15's mounted on 15x8 on Saturday. I'm headed to watch a buddy at the drags instead of racing but I'll run them Sunday hopefully with good results.

 

Should just run pizza cuters all around lol that would be pimp

 

I ran 195/60/15 all around my first autocross event. They were a softer tire than what I have on now though so they worked pretty well. I thought about running these new chicom tires all around if they work well up front. We'll see.

 

4 spare donut's would be more fun i have done it

 

I keep thinking I need to put the welded 4.10's back in and slap the old bias scat tracs on it. Smoky drifter truck!

 

Minor update since I finally had a few minutes to work on the truck.


I needed a heat sink for the msd HEI module. After a bunch of ideas I just couldn't go the same flat piece of aluminum I used on the 78 when I built it's ignition system...



It is an ignition amplifier right?



Ancient junk audio gear to the rescue! It's going to be mounted inside the cab so I'm not too worried about sealing it, rather I'm leaving it as open as can be so it'll breath and stay cool.

 

It's all hooked up and running. I had an old dead ignitor so I robbed the plugs off of it so if something happens to the new ignition it's a simple matter of plugging the stock parts back in and bolting it to the inner fender again.


I haven't driven it yet but just revving it in the driveway it is very noticeable how it's picking up the rpm's quicker.

 

Kinda