Another 78 Hilux build

Discussion in '1976-1983 Build-Up/Project Threads' started by nottoshabi, Feb 11, 2016.

  1. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    Just bought it on Ebay you guys sold me on it. Plus i'm sure i will do it to my other car and my buddy's car. There will be pics :headbang:
     
  2. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Hell even if you sell the roller to some young ricer kid after your done with it you an make your $$ back. Lol.

    Just a heads up, take your time with it. I rushed thru mine and i kinda over did it lol
     
  3. skaterat

    skaterat Member

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    Awesome pickup man!
     
  4. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    I took the truck to get the alignment done and I also asked them to look at the differential as well. They came back and said that they need to send the differential to a specialist, to check the condition of the gears, change seals and put it back together, it will cost me $750. I told them no, hell no. And ask them to just top of the fluid. They said the fluid is to the top and they can not add any more in there.

    I'm not familiar with differentials so I'm asking you guys if you are. Is the slow leak something I need to worrie about over time? Will the gears grind them self's to a pulp if the fluid gets bellow a certain level?
     
  5. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Any leak over time is bad. Just get up under there and see where its leaking. Could be as easy as a seal that you can just throw on.

    If youre hearing wierd shit coming from back there then you have a problem
     
  6. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    I'm looking for front seats for the truck the ones that are in there right now are worn out and not in good shape if i was going to take them to get reupholstered it will cost me ca$$h, more then i want to spend. But then again what kind of seats fit in our trucks? I heard Honda prelude seats fit right in whit out changing the seat track.

    I have found these on Ebay is this a good price for a set of seats? I know summit Racing also sells seats, I found these for $50 more for the set and these are brand new. What do you guys think? I can use some advise/direction.
     
  7. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    So had some time this weekend to work on the truck a bit finally lowered it again in the back. I have found a height that I liked. I guess measuring it and fallowing the measurements don't work for me have to literally lower it 3 times to get the height that I like.[​IMG][/url]image hosting 10mb limit[/IMG] Now the back matches the front. [​IMG]

    I have a question for you guys that are this low with their trucks. At slow speeds and big bumps the axle bangs on the frame is that going to mess anything up besides make noise and be bouncier?


    Now on tot the interior. This truck comes with a heater in the cabin. I would like to remove it:
    1 because I would never use it and 2 I would like to build a box to place the radio head unit in that space. It looks something like this:[​IMG]

    It has a pipe that comes from the engine and goes throw the bottom of the heater and exits the cabin back to the engine compartment. Can I remove the heater with out removing the pipe?
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2020
    twizted1 likes this.
  8. twizted1

    twizted1 Addict

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    sits nice!! i dig it with the whitewalls
     
  9. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Yes just remove the hoses going to the engine reroute the hoses so they feed to each other or follow them and block them off all together. Theres 1 electrical connector? The 2 vents going up behind the dash to the windshield, the 3 cables For the controls and 4 bolts.

    Be warned, youre going to lose coolant. Drain it then make the changes
     
  10. twizted1

    twizted1 Addict

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    what size tires are you running? on 14s?
     
  11. Orlando Muniz

    Orlando Muniz Veteran

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    This truck looks SICK! keep up the good work!
     
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  12. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    @jetas I have to remove the pipes in order to remove the heater? The pipe is part of the heater. Right? I was trying to avoid draining the coolant and removing the pipe. I was hopping to just remove the heater and leave the pipe in there.

    @twizted1 These are the tires I got:
    COKER CLASSIC - NOSTALGIA RADIAL WHITEWALL
    165R15 - 2 1/4" WW
     
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  13. Perkolator

    Perkolator Addict

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    If you're taking out the heater - the heater core connects the IN and OUT of the coolant entering the cab...so in order to remove it you have to drain the system...or not and let it spill all over the place :)

    Personally I don't see why you want to remove your heat on a street vehicle even if not used much. I can think of some situations where it might be handy...like at night...or more specifically when escorting home a woman at night. Gotta remember a desert is hot in the day, but at night.....

    I want an aftermarket stereo in my truck, but plan to make my console sit snug up against the heater, in front of the shifter. There's a decent amount of room there, perhaps you can figure out something and still retain your heat....unless you need to strip all your truck's weight for racing purposes :)
     
  14. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Rubber hoses run from the engine thru the firewall and to the heater core. Drain the fluids and remove your heater
     
  15. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    The console that turns the heat on and off is broken and can not find another one. I mean its fubar there is no repairing, so I want to remove that whole piece and replace it with dials. And at that point the heater would just be dead weight. And there is a lot of room there to place a radio and some cup holders.


    Thanks for clarifying. @jetas
     
  16. Perkolator

    Perkolator Addict

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    What part of the console do you need?

    There's kinda 2 parts from what I recall - a face plate and a mechanical assembly. The face plate is merely a face plate, but the mechanical part attached to the back is what does everything. The levers are attached to cables, which actuate all the flaps and levers on the vents and heater core itself.

    If you need one I think I have a mostly complete console in my parts box. I'm going to keep the face plate as a spare but I don't see me needing a second set of the controls that go behind it since mine works fine. I also recently saw a Hilux on CL that specifies he's only parting out the truck, so parts are available for those in need :)
     
  17. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    Thanks @Perkolator. I want to throw the whole assembly thing out. I need the plastic face plate and the controls are all rusted and in bad shape. I want to close off the cabin is extremely drafty and it heats up bad. If I drive it for more than an hour or sit in a drive throw my left keg is on fire, it gets so hot. And the cabin it self it becomes a sauna, in the California temperatures it gets a little uncomfortable. And I'm being a huge kid cause I want the room for all the dials and gadgets. :headbang:
     
  18. Perkolator

    Perkolator Addict

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    why would your LEFT leg be getting hot? heat transfer from your exhaust coming up through the floor?
    The PO of my truck put a dynamat-like product all over the place so I don't really notice any heat coming up except for the shifter boot area. I actually have to turn off my truck at drive through because the exhaust drone is ridiculous (Flowmaster)

    what are your stereo plans? i get where you're putting the head unit, but where are you putting speakers? i don't want to cut my door panels if possible.
     
  19. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    @Perkolator Don't know why the left side of the truck get real hot. At first I thought it was the fuse box cause it also gets hot. But if the fuse box would get that hot then it would probably catch on fire. The interior is all original and the heat/noise dampening is done for, it crumbles if i pick at it. I bought a bunch of that dynamat and also some heat resistance mat that I plan on putting in it.

    As for the radio system I'm going to place the radio and amp where the heater is right now. That is if the amp will fit there. And then create a center console tall enough that I can rest my elbow on it as I drive and have a place to place my phone, cup holders and a compartment like you see on modern trucks today. Under neath of that which would be between the seats I will place the amp and sub-woofers. I'm thinking of JL 8" they can handle a lot of power in a small space. Cause it would probably be like 2' of enclosed speaker box. My doors already have speakers in them, I will replace those with 6" 2 way and place some tweeters in the place of where the air vents in the dash facing the driver and passenger. I'm also capping them off. And I think that should do it.

    My biggest concern is how do I bolt the box to the floor good enough? Do you guys have any suggestions for that? I'm thinking I have to make wholes in the cabin and place nice size bolts throw those and anchor that box for dear life. The truck bounces a lot, at the height that it is any big bump will have you off the seat if your not wearing the seat belt. Cali streets are not smooth. I will do a mock up of the center console/speaker box with some card board and take tons of pic's of my progress.
     
  20. Perkolator

    Perkolator Addict

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    Sounds a lot like the box I'm planning to build for my truck, only the PO swapped in a bench seat so I won't get any arm rest :( Been wanting it for months, just haven't had any time all summer with a 3yr old and now a 6wk old keeping me busy.

    I have seen some mini amplifiers online that look interesting, I believe they'd easily fit up inside the dash somewhere or definitely in a console with your head unit. I removed my stereo and put a stock block plate on, so there's a bit of room behind it. Been contemplating sticking some speakers inside those dash vents since mine don't have the louver ball in them and it's quite drafty like you said.

    I'm likely going to put a sub under the seat too, likely an 8" too. For mounting I was thinking I could easily fab mounts that extend to the seat mounts, instead of drilling fresh holes. Could also just drill some holes and use bolts with big washers through the floor sheet metal. Loctite or nylocks should solve the vibration/bounce issue of loosening hardware, maybe put a piece of foam/rubber/carpet between for isolation. Rivnuts/nutserts are another option to mount on the floor.
     

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