Really depends on how much boost you want to run. The 315's are probably good for 7-8 pounds... A set of 7mgte injectors are 470's, and are good up to about 18 psi depending on the turbo. I'm currently running the 7m injectors, but I'm going to get a set of 650's-800's soon. I might actually run 1000's so that I can run a flex fuel sensor and E85.

But with my current turbo and 17 psi, I'm maxing out the 470's with a rising rate FPR.

 

Not really. The turbo center section I got from Precision lasted only about 24 hours before it was toast. I've had the worst luck with turbos so far.

BUT.... They really came through. They warrantied the turbo again, machined my painted compressor housing and ceramic coated turbine housing and sent it all back with a new center, and billet compressor wheel.

Runs great now.

Still haven't gotten the bigger injectors, money's been tight. That and I'm really trying to decide which direction to go with this build at this point.
At 14 pounds of boost now, I'm maxing out the injectors. That means that every step I've taken so far has made the compressor more efficient, with more air and less boost. Still trying to wrap my head around that, but the Volumetric Efficiency map shows that it is real.

 

Not yet. Doesn't mean it can't happen, but it hasn't. My fear is that when it does, it will be violent, now that I've added a couple hundred horsepower.

I've done a lot of thinking, drawing, and testing. My hypothesis as to why it would doesn't have anything to do with the "reverse" 4 link at all, except that the reversing of the system moves the mounts and the torque that the frame see further down the ladder.

With a forward facing link setup, the forces are transferred into the frame no more than 5 feet or so from the front suspension (with an extra cab). Reversing the setup moves the transferring point another 5 feet away, allowing the frame itself to store energy in the form of a slight bow. When traction is overcome, the frame releases that energy until it hooks up again, and the cycle continues.
Wheel hop is ONLY caused by the storage and subsequent release of energy and the frame is the only place that energy can be stored as long as all the bushings are in good order. This is extremely evident on a leaf sprung setup, as you can watch the spring bind and axle wrap.

 

It doesn't do burn outs... at all.

Kinda disappointing actually.

During a launch, it doesn't really lift or lower the rear end much. It just goes. The built auto trans probably helps the power application by not being as abrupt as a clutch dump.

So far, all the negative reverse 4 link hype has been absent from my experience. Most people regurgitate the same "facts" and have never tried to actually explain the physics behind their theory.

The Squat/AntiSquat idea is probably correct, as the links are generally aimed towards the front on a 4 link, and you have to aim their intersecting points forward. But I'm not sure yet whether too much of either will cause wheel hop. More likely, a no traction (burnout) issue, or the opposite, whatever that may be.

 

I keep going back to the Minitruckin Magazine article from years back that addressed link suspensions. They barely covered the reverse setup, but didn't have much to say about it, good or bad. Like many things on the old interweb, there are a lot of people who think they know everything about them, even though they may have no experience with them or suspension design in general. They continue to repeat the same old talking points.

I think it'd be awesome if I had the time to actually do a comprehensive analysis of them and the other designs. Then I could officially publish my results and give the debate some real answers.

Minitruckin's take on the reverse setup was that it does it's job and is impossible to inadvertently build in roll oversteer, which can make a home brew forward 4 link downright undrivable.

 

I can't remember, I'll have to measure it. Runs in my head that it might be the 6.75"?

The bag contains a BIP for ignition spark control.

 

Big changes coming.

Ported a head to allow for ridiculous airflow...

Swapped the a43d Auto for an A340E with a shift kit and MS2 modded trans controller.

Swapped the MS2 engine management for an MS3.

Rewiring the engine harness and chassis harness.

Pics to follow...

 

Hmm. Did you also use the LED gear indicator? He definitely has some cool products there, but I'm already on my way with the MegaSquirt. The a340 is fully supported with it too. With it the shift points for accel and decel are fully adjustable.

 

Haha. I knew I'd get some flak for that...

It's the easiest way to spool up this big of a turbo, and heck... It's fun and consistent.