i put a 10 right behind the driver seat ina truck box. it sits on the floor and kinda wedged between the seats. the sit is still usable to put stuff on but not to sit on. the pass side is still functionable as intended

 

so uh, wut kind of seats r those. they look a lil comfy lol

and do they bolt right in?

 

Litneon, that looks badass! Nice Job!

They look like Civic seats?

j10nk, yah on the current box. Sorry, I should've been more specific

 

Litneon... sorry for my ignorance... but I am and will always be a newb to car audio. I have a Rockford 10" P2. Don't know what category you mentioned that fell into... Do you see it working in a setup like yours? How difficult was it sealing that box?

 

, i can chop tops and do bodydrops but i still couldn't hook up a stereo to save my life....... it sucks.

 

im thinkin bout getting a chop top

 

elaborate in papabears threadjacking thread. don't want to jack this one!

 

So I started the project today with the help of my grandfather. I wanted to buy some MDF but he insisted on using some plywood he had sitting around. I figure use it to try it out for fit and can always change it later. I am assuming that by back mounting you mean mount it up to the underside of the board as opposed to the lip sitting on the topside like a "normal" box? I wanted to do this however I wasn't sure because when I sat the speaker on the lip of the box (without the lid) there was maybe 1/2" or so underneath the speaker. If I sit the speaker on the metal lip with the cover on top of it I don't know how I would get it to seal. The plastic ring can be put on either side of the speaker for both mounting... As far as taking up some of the space how do you recommend doing that? I did a test run and dropped in the lid and speaker without sealing the box or really bolting anything down... I hope sealing makes a 10000% difference because I can't even hear the bass of the sub over my 5 1/4". Thanks for the info going to continue working on it in the next few days.

 

Thanks for the help... you nailed my questions right on the head. I started fiber glassing today. I can't say it went the smoothest but better than I thought it would. I had a very difficult time getting the areas under the lip of the compartment and the fist size hole that goes through to the compartment that holds the jack. Needless to say I blindly painted the underside of the lip with generous amounts of resin. Some of the fiberglass cloth was not sticking flush to the metal since I could barely see what I was doing. Tomorrow I will go over the known holes as well as a couple more layers in general.

This brings me to another question. I carpeted the "baffle" I made. The carpet is rolled underneath on the outside edges (the surface that will sit on the storage compartment) and rolled underneath the cut out as well (the surface that the sub will mount to). Will I be able to get a proper seal like that or is it best I trim back the carpet as much as possible. Also... my sub is recessed and not clean match up like yours in the picture (although I don't mind since it gives me more clearance although this is why I carpeted the inside).

Thanks for the guidance so far and anything else you think I am doing wrong or would help by all means chime in. I really should be posting pictures but I have to find my camera. Perhaps after I finish glassing I will take a picture of my lid and the box.

Thanks

 

Well.. I finished my project... at least for now. Some things that I don't like about it... I couldn't get it to seal completely. I feel air coming out in a few spots. The lid does not sit flat and seal due to the sub being mounted underneath it. I don't have nearly as much sound as I did before when I had it in the the premade box. There is a big difference from not having a sub in there at all... however I don't think I am using the sub even close to it's potential...

The good... it looks nice... my seat is fully functional... and the sub is totally hidden when I want it to be. I suppose if I am up for it later on I can always open it back up and improve on my baffle so it seals better... as well as add more fiberglass. I had a really hard time negotiating with the seat belt mount as well as all the other nuts and bolts sticking out in the compartment. Getting the cloth to stick to the top parts was very difficult for me as well. I figure it is not half bad considering it was my first time playing with fiberglass. I didn't coat mine like you did... but I stuffed it with poly fill. I figure someone who is not an audio expert or inspecting my work will not think all that much... but anyone who is a music enthusiast will notice something is missing. I figure I am my biggest critic so that is why it bugs me a little. Any the case... I will try to post a pic of the finished work later as well as some of my truck.

Thanks much for everyone's input... at least I know the answer to my question now... I can do it now... but it does not sound nearly as good as before... but now I don't have to shuffle an irritating box around.

 

The baffle didn't sit 100% flush because I think I need to take a rotary tool or something like you suggested so I could recess the underside of the baffle to compensate for the lip on the sub. The box is still not air tight do to my poor fiberglass job. I could always go back and add more glass in the future to work on that. This was the first time I played with it. I know that is leaking because I can feel air coming up through a hole that the seat belt retainers in the middle of the 2 jump seats mounts to. I will give it a rest for now and once I get the drive to mess with it again it is only a matter of a bunch of sheet metal screws that are holding the baffle down. Thanks for all the help thus far.


The enclosure I had before was not ported... so the goal of the task ahead is simple enough... but actually getting all the leaky points may be a challenge

 

Have any pics of it, though?

 

Yeah let me find my cam. Will post some pics of it and my truck in the next few days.