Turbo and V6 are the same as far as I know. I do know you can use 4 cylinder gears in a V6 case but you have to shim the pinion bearing out a bunch to work. V6 has larger bearings all the way around I believe, I know the pinion bearings are bigger than 4 cylinder. E locker diffs have different bearings too but that's a subject for another time.

The V6 gears aren't much stronger than 4 cylinder, the strength is in the case that has MUCH thicker ribbing and more of it. so it resists flex which causes pinion deflection and broken gears.

Yes all 8" truck stuff is 30 spline. 4 cylinder, turbo or V6 3rd members are completely interchangeable in any 8" housing. The tundra diff can be put in an earlier housing if you drill the holes in the flange slightly to the center so they can slide over the studs in the housing. It is pretty much bomb proof with the carrier trussing.

ErikB has lots of good info, same with 4crawler. There is a ridiculous amount of info on Pirate4x4 in the toyota section's FAQ.

 

I'm sure he's already looked into this and for the record, I haven't, so he knows more about this than I do, but what about Explorer front brakes?
The 8.8 (from what I understand) is already a popular conversion as you get a larger diff and larger and disk brakes all in one shot. Why not adapt the larger front brakes as well? The 95-2000's are already set up to run 15 inch wheels as they came with them stock. Also the brakes on the "second gen" Explorer are supposed to perform as well or better (depending on who you talk to) than the Cobra Mustang brakes of that era. These are disks that are meant to stop a big heavy vehicle with a fairly large towing capacity. As I stated before, I haven't researched it so there may be clearance issues and things I havent thought about.

 

hmm mite do this to my truck 20s v8 swap gonna need some stopping power

 

Well, I'm sorry for being gone for so long without feeding you guys some much needed input. Simplest things first.

As for the bracket.
It's a custom one off piece. I built mine off of a cardboard template strictly for sizing the plate. Once the plate was cut out and sized to the template, then I locked the rotor to the spindle (You can do this any way you want. I personally used the bearings and smashed a little piece of rubber innertube between the cage and race of the outter bearing. Over torque the assembly a little so it doesn't move. Bolt the rotor to the hub using at least 2 lug nuts, align everything where it fits best and does not hit control arm or anything else when truck steering is full-lock. Clamp brake caliper bracket to locked rotor using small washers between the cage and rotor edge to shim a safe clearance distance so the rotor does not rub bracket. Then use a hole transfer punch set to mark your hole centers. I drilled my inner holes (The ones that attach to the spindle) a little small so I can tap/thread them and dont require the use of a nut on the back side. once that's all done, pull it all back apart, clean it up, assemble it properly and you should have a working brake assembly. Questions?


As for other brakes

I didn't try EVERY possible combination.. I simply went online to Napaonline.com and looked for rotors that met a specific set of criteria (Hat height, over all diameter, rotor thickness, bolt pattern) and picked the one that closest matched what I was looking for. I'm sure there's ways to make other rotors work, but this is just how I did mine with the specs I was interested in fulfilling.. I'm trying to stop a Vette for crying outloud, lord forbid I happen to wanna move something heavy or tow a boat or something with it and wanna stop. LOL

Rear axle...

I pride myself on this one.. The assembly consists of parts from 3 different Diffs.. 1995 V6 4-runner 4x4 (4.56:1), 1986 2wd (1/2 ton, base model, 4-speed truck G-code axle 3.07:1 ratio), 1991-1992 MK3 Twin Turbo Supra (3.73:1 4 pinion LSD)

First it started with gutting the 4-runner axle and getting my 3-member. Then I gutted the G-code axle and threw that 3rd into the 4-runner axle and shipped it out to make room.

Now I have a gutted G-code axle and so I stripped it, and painted it.





While paint was drying, I took liberty to use my time to pull the supra diff apart and install my Weir Performance LSD Stage 1 upgrade. Let me tell you.. The stock clutches in the LSD were stacked in a way that only provided a super slippery 25 Ft/lb breakaway force. After restacking the clutches and installing the new Weir LSD upgrade, I managed to get well over 125 Ft/lb breakaway force!! MAJOR improvement!!

(How the clutches were stacked when I removed them)


(How the clutches are supposed to be stacked for maximum performance)


So now that the diff is apart, enough playing around.. I got straight to work, cleaning, degreasing, and measuring EVERYTHING to make sure it was all within spec. Thankfully everything was PERFECT.


After assembling everything, You have a complete supra LSD upgraded to stage 1, and ready for abuse.. Add that to a now gutted 4:56 4-Runner V6 housing and you get this.. Don't worry about the adjuster hanging a couple threads over the side like that.. All was adjusted within spec (Note prussian blue on the gears and dial indicator on bench.), and because of the about 1/4" offset in ring gear compared to the 4x4 carrier, this is why it sticks out.. It's been run before by guys with big HP and never had any problems with it.


The only 2 problems now. 1, it won't physically fit in the housing because of the adjuster. There are 2 ways to deal with this.. Shave about 0.200" off the bearing face of the adjuster and set your gears up with the new shorter adjuster, or because I don't have a lathe, I just notched about 0.200" off the case for clearance and it slipped right in!



Now problem #2.. The carrier sits about a 1/4" to the passenger side now. There's normally about 1/8" inch of clearance between the stock stub shaft location and the bottom of the sun gear in the LSD carrier on the supra diff stock. Now that it's 1/4" to the passenger side, the axle won't fit by about 1/8" because it's now too long to fit.. So, with surgical precision, I took my angle grinder and mauled off just over 1/8" from the axle, then cleaned it up with a fine grit flap wheel.. You cold almost never tell it was an angle grinder. LOL


Now with the hardcore stuff dealt with, it's time to slap this piece of art in the truck!


While doing this, I realized that there wasn't a brake proportioning valve bracket welded to the axle! Oh well! I'm not adding one, so I decided to delete my brake proportioning valve.. Before doing it, I wanted to see what other people were doing to delete it.. I immediately facepalmed!!
**DO NOT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU READ ON THE INTERNET**
First instructional I found, they tell you to Tee the 2 lines coming from the front and run that to the rear brakes.. DO NOT DO THAT!!! one of the lines runs back directly from the "Rear" brake circuit on the master cylinder. The other line is teed off of the passenger right front brake circuit.. the problem here is that if you tee it, not only can you not run a proportioning valve to control line pressure to the rear, but you also link your front and rear circuits together. The problem with this is if you have just 1 leak in either circuit, you bleed the entire brake system and lose ALL your brakes.. THIS IS THE CORRECT WAY TO DO IT..

First you have to trace the lines back up to the front and figure out which line is front and which one is rear. You can tell because the front will tee into the right front brake line in the passenger side wheel well. Once you figure out which is the front, CAP IT.. You can do this like I did by using a 10x1mm union and a 10x1mm inverted flare plug. The other way to correctly do it is to eliminate the tee in the passenger wheel well and replace it with a union connecting the line from the master cyl directly to the passenger front wheel. then you just remove the existing dead line that runs to the rear. (This isn't a picture of my truck, but the tee I'm talking about is in the right side of this picture. the line coming out of the back of it to the left of the tee will be the one to get eliminated.)



I took the hose bracket off the valve assembly in the back and re-used it on one of the original mounting holes for the valve after I removed it and bolted it back to the frame. A couple zip ties hold the lines together until I can get back there to add a tab to properly hold it.


Up front, I bought a summit brand adjustable brake proportioning valve.(It's really just a Wilwood one with a summit logo for $20 or so..) I made a bracket for it, and mounted it with a new line I made and attached it to the master cylinder. Bleed the system, take a test drive, adjust the rear bias with a few hard stops and turn it down far enough that the rear wheels just stop skidding under a hard/panic stop and you're set.


Later, I noticed the wheels were starting to rub more than normal inside the bed wheel arches. Turns out that the axle is about 3/4-1" shorter than the stock 89-92 axles. I got longer studs and temporarily installed a 1/4" spacer to make it a little more comfortable fit until I can get some 1/2" billet spacers. The other thing is if you do this swap, be prepared to get another drive shaft. The 8" ring gear pushes the yoke about another inch toward the tranny partly because the pinion is also longer. I happened to use a driveline from a 1996 mustang GT automatic, but your results will be much different since my drivetrain is obviously different. Hope this helps you guys.

 

IIRC it was about $40 ea for rotors, $45 + $20 core for calipers (You can sometimes get away with returning your stock calipers for core even though they don't match) I think hoses were $35 each or so. pads figure about another $40, steel plate I got from a friend for free, bolts were about $2 a piece and there's 4 of them per side.. so.. Right about $350-360 or so? And that was all with off the shelf DOT approved parts..

Hows that for a cheap upgrade?

 

While this is true, think about the curb weight of a crown vic that's designed to be fully loaded with all the police equipment and supposed to survive the abuse cops throw at these things.. It's WAYYYYY overkill.

8.8 SOUNDED like a good axle swap, however after talking to a bunch of the mustang guys, one of which being the guys at CorteX Racing and the general word is that while there ARE options for the Ford 8.8 diff as far as LSD, spool etc. the LSD in the 8.8 SUCKS.. All of the mustang guys will tell you.. And the LSD that actually works for the 8.8 is big $$$.. And besides, I don't feel like running a foot long dent along side my gas tank with a sledge to make room for the offset pinion / drive shaft while running the 8.8.. The toyota option I selected uses all factory toyota parts, and is almost entirely a bolt in swap with a much better OEM LSD than any of the ford options. Oh, did I mention I still have an OEM E-brake?

 

Awesome thread, thank you ............ you have PM

 

It needed some badging..

 

SSRSTRD lololol keep adding on.

 

I think I'm going to change that Sequoia emblem though.. Everyone says SSRS but it's SSR5. you know Super Sport SR5..? Stupid sequoia salting my game. LOL