Remove the bump stops and either:

1. Cut them down
2. Leave them out

I completely removed mine all the way around. I do plan on getting low profile bump stops later

 

University district - I'm a student at the UW

Beyondspex, I'm gonna cut them down when I get the chance. Have you been able to find any low profile front bump stops? I've only seen rear ones. I have to get blocks too, probably gonna get 3". I like the look since removing the middle leaf but its still too high and the ride is ehh. One of these days ill cough up the money for new shocks and maybe the belltech leaf springs

 

Beefed Taco sells some really nice low profile bump stops. Check his page out.

I just moved out of Queen Anne myself. Love the U area

 

thanks for the advice Beefed Taco seems like a celeb here haha

I love the u district too but damn the roads here must have been paved by blind people

 

Have you driven on any old seattle roads with the original early 1900s brick? Living on queen anne I had to deal with the old brick and the old trolly rail lines. Such a pain in the ass.

 

Oh and saying a blind man paved the roads here is being nice too.

 

I recently bought a welder and had my garage wired for it so that I can do bodywork and replace my trashed core support. Had a few short glasspacks lying around from an old motorcycle project so I thought I'd get a little practice and build myself an exhaust. The welds suck ass but it sounds pretty funny so mission accomplished

 

What welder did you buy?

 

170 Amp MIG/Flux Wire Welder - 22 volts @ 110 amps

 

Front Clip Replacement

Over winter break I drilled out the spot welds and from my cab, and a donor from a junk yard in Lake Stevens. The turd got some work done haha. I also experimented with cutting out some rust from the cab beneath the drivers foot well and welded in a 1/16" flat steel plate underneath it. Didn't go super well but I think it'll hold up better than the holey floor until I can do it right.


Here is a pic of the damage do the front clip, this is the inner fender.


The bolt holes on the inner fender were rusted out, and had buckled from a front end collision


Lifted the cab off to get better access to the front clip spot welds and rusted floor




Here's some detail of the cut in the floor


Looking like a real car again - this is the donor inner fenders, core support, bumper, valence, and hood. It is just resting there, haven't welded it back in yet.


Another look at the nose job

I haven't welded the new front end on yet - It is held on by the fenders and resting on the front cab supports. I think when I weld it on I'll use some more 1/16" steel and cut out small coin sized circles and weld through the cab and clip drill holes.

 

looking good lowered

 

After 6 months of sitting without a cab or front clip, a few shots of starter fluid and the Turd lives!

However, the idle is rough and dies after like 20 seconds or after revving the engine. Before winter break, it was running great but it has been sitting since December without running. I've run it a few times and let the engine warm up but it just wants to die when I let my foot off the throttle. Tomorrow I'm going to check the plugs and drain the tank. Hoping that's the problem.

Good to be back though! It's gonna be a good summer for little turd

 

I had to scramble to get the truck in decent running condition to drive 175 miles to my internship in Vancouver, WA from Seattle. There was a vacuum hose disconnected from the carb to the air filter, once I found it and reconnected it the truck runs good as new. Instead of welding the front clip on since I didn't have time and couldn't lift the cab back off the frame, I just put bolts through all the spot weld holes that lined up with the cab and the new front clip. I read about it on a toyota 4x4 forum and so far its been just fine, the only problem as that some of the threads that stick through into the wheel well grind sometimes.

The blocks that I ordered from beefed taco showed up during the school year and I didn't have time to install them until now. Wow, what a difference they make over a leaf spring delete.

I put some extra carpet I had in my basement on the floor of the cab and behind the seats to try to eliminate some road noise and drone from the motorcycle glasspack exhaust I made during winter break, and it does a decent job - better than the reverb from a totally stripped interior. Since I'm not living at home this summer I don't have access to all of my tools or friends to supply some elbow grease, I've come up with a short list of projects that I want to accomplish:

-Fab a car style parking brake
-Install sound deadening in interior
-Upholster interior
-Build custom metal dash with toggle switches galore
-Find a better tailgate
-Get an E-fan for the radiator since I lost the shroud last summer and it overheats in traffic jams
-Fix the wiper assembly that I somehow broke
-Replace the steering dampener
-Fix the horn

 

keep it up man it already looks way better

 

Engine surging under load

I've been putting Little Turd through the paces this summer, driving from Portland to Seattle (180ish mi) every weekend to visit the GF

This morning when I was driving back down south with a 1980 wetbike in the back the motor started to surge at ~70mph on a flat road and it continued to happen in 5th gear above about 55mph going uphill on the freeway. Engine temp was ok and the gas tank is over half full. Once I got off the freeway it did the same thing going up a hill in third gear going about 35-40 surging and losing power. It doesn't happen in 1st or 2nd gear or going downhill, only under load at speed.

Once, going about 70 on the freeway it surging started going up a gradual hill and I pushed the clutch in and let the engine idle till I was at about 55 since when it surges it causes the truck to lurch forwards and back pretty rapidly. A few seconds after I pushed the clutch in, the engine died.

It feels like the truck wants to bog but instead it does this surging thing where it bogs for half a second and then stops & repeat...

I tried searching the engine/drivetrain section but it doesn't sound like anyone else has had a problem quite like this. My theories are a carb/fuel delivery problem, or weak ignition. Starting the engine requires priming with a couple of pedal presses but that's always been the case. The only thing that has changed on the truck recently are the added load in the back (the wetbike weights ~350 + all the other junk in the bed) and added about 6 feet of 2 1/2" to the shorty glass pack exhaust that I made this winter - but I've made the trip with both before and didn't have this issue.

Any ideas?

 

Yea I would have to agree! Looks way better with simple wheels/drop!