No you can not. That motor has a few weak spots. Fix those weak spots and yes you can.

 

i did 585 out of my stock worn motor (stuff I did was shim oil pump and installed metel head gasket)


only issue is the head gasket and oiling system


stock 7m will do 500 for how long not sure really depends on how your drive really

i know you can not stay that high rpm with that amonte of power for that long since the front blanacer just wonte cut it any more


plus there's 2 cranks 6m 86.5 to 88 in the mk3 and the 7m crank late 88 to 92 ( note in 84 teh 6m crank came out with the 6mge but this was only found in japan in the mk2 supra

i run 6m crank shaft since it is lighter

 

I'll probably be somewhere close to 500 hp. Will the stock harmonic balancer hold or do I need to get a new one?

 

Dropped the new 2mm Cometic metal head gasket off to the machine shop Saturday. That should be all the work that's left for them to do on it. I hope I told them enough information so they can get me back a solid, reliable, and POWERFUL 7MGTE.

 

I am not fan of there gaskest's, the block has to be flat really flat as in can't pic up any thing with your finger nail when ya drag it across the block

the sealent they use viton is hard and just crap I find it's very picky

un like hks or greddy

forth more they use a stianless steel shim not steel like hks or greddy

if your block does not come out that flat aka muchine marks removed the stock viton and coat it in copper spary

this will mean drilling out the rivits I use small die grinder my self

then coat both sealing layers not the stainless shim


ps it is very importain that you cheak to see if the rivit is blocking you head sealing they made mistake on there gasket and one rivt has to be removed or you blow a head gasket in secounds

it's the rivit on the oil drain on the intake side of the motor

just do a test fit and you will find it

 

Dude, that's some good info! I wish I would have talked to you before I picked out a head gasket. I'm starting to understand why the HKS and Greddy's are so expensive now.

I just called the machine shop and they said that they always check the metal head gaskets before they put them on. I guess riveted head gaskets have clearance problems a lot.

Thanks again! I'll be hand building my next motor.

 

no just cometick lol they put the rivit in a wrough place and have yet to fix it lol


The best fitting gasket is the greddy but there not easy to come by


funny part is when i start to build my white car again going to run flat top pistons

here is small peek why






it's not done yet

plan is to put 2jz valve's in, cut down the valve glides then thermo coat the chambers


and grind like a mofo

 

Sounds like you've got some serious plans for that thing. Do you do your own machining?

 

No I wish lol


but I do all my own port work


some small things do to the head can add up in power

like de-shording valves coneing the valve guides ect

 

The more you can do on your own, the more you feel accomplished...at least that's the way I feel.
10 years ago, when I started building the 7M, I got the same machine shop to do my head work. They rebuilt it, did a "performance valve job" on it, and ported it. It wasn't until a few years ago, I learned that porting the exhaust side was bad. I'm using the stock exhaust manifold, so hopefully that'll keep it from causing any real problems.

 

ya inlargeing exhaust runners is not a good thing to do mine will be shaped but not dug out like my intake


have a log manafold at high boost can cause issue over time form to much persure on the trubine

 

I probably won't be running really high boost anyway. If I ever decide to get crazy with it, I'll probably get a different turbo for it. Maybe a beefier turbo will help it.

By the way, where are you supposed to attach an oil catch can? And what lines are you supposed to connect to it?

 

depends how ya wana do it

basic is two lines form vavle cover to catch can then one line form that to ether exhaust or intake pre turbo

 

Yeah, I read this post on Supraforums and it seems like the best way to vent is to the exhaust. Everyone seem to debate about it.

7mgte catch can setup with ffim

I don't know where exactly you'd put a fitting on the exhaust side though. It's tough finding pictures of some of this stuff.

 

ive always ran it into the intake system or ran a breather tank. only down side to the breather tank is smelling the oil fumes.

 

well it's very easy

do you have emmisions ? if so then you have to do pre turbo

if you do it by exhuast best way to do it is after your wide band to prolong the life of the wide band



right now mine is done by intake and exhaust I am now going to change that to just exhaust this time around since I don't care about emmsions

Vibrant Performance ::.

 

Yeah, I'll have the emissions on it to start out with.

So you can buy that E-VAC Scavenger kit and weld it in your exhaust down pipe somewhere, and then connect your oil catch can to it? So you'd have three lines going into it...the two off the valve covers and the scavenger kit line?

Please don't mind if I sound like an idiot on this, It's all new to me.

 

2 lines form valve cover then to catch can then another lien form catch can to exhaust after your wide band or oem ox sensor


or per turbo and then run a pcv filter in that line

 

I HAVE been working on this thing, just not on the truck itself. Here are the wheels that were on it right before I bought it. I loved the way they made the truck look, so I bought em from my buddy for cheap. The tires won't last long, but it'll look good when I take it out again.

I finally got the long block back from the machine shop too. I've still gotta get it up on the engine stand and down a big step into my heat controlled basement. The drafty garage isn't going to cut it for a nice engine build.
I can finally start putting all my expensive goodies on!

 

Good luck man! you should have a lot of fun!