Update I started pulling the radiator and some other things and took some measurements. The blue core support is my 93 Toyota with a 22RE and the white is my 83 with the 22R. I wanted to measure how much of a difference there is between the two because I've seen plenty of 89-95 7MGTE swaps, but no finished 79-83's. The bays are a little different too with the 93's being a little longer, but not by much. Since the 83 & 93 are so close, my fear of having to cut up the core support is gone. I'd rather cut the firewall a little than the core support. I'll probably get some more stuff done on it soon.
theres a guy running around vancouver washington with the 7mg swap in his 83 he said its a pretty easy swap
I like the sound of that. If you ever catch up with him, take a few pictures and post em. Get his info and maybe we can ask him a few questions. Thanks
Labor Day weekend update I finally got the 22R out. I think I'll rename this truck "The Greast"; short for Greasy Beast. My phone won't let me load pictures, so I'll have to post some at work Tuesday.
Here's a few pictures I took over the weekend. The first one is of the motor and trans. right after I got it out (everybody knows what that loks like). The second is my parts motor that'll I'm using to get everything mocked up with. The last picture is of my new set of wheels. I wouldn't have anything done without this bad boy. My other big jack took a poop and the others won't lift high enough. Thanks Harbor Freight!
Transmissions Now I have to pick which one of these heavy sum beaches to use. They'll both be fine to mock stuff up with but I need to find the bolts for em. I've got about 5 heavy boxes of Supra stuff in my loft that I don't feel like going through. If anybody wants to sell me all the 14mm transmission bolts for cheap, let me know. The second picture is of a lower Supra R154 transmission bracket bolt up next to the slot a longer one would go through on the transmission. These longer bolts are the harder ones to find. Unfortunately a pickup's are 17mm's instead of 14mm's or I'd use them. I'll try to keep posting some pictures as I work on this thing. I've still got a few things to tackle before I can actually get the trans. and motor in.
I knew I'd need to figure out something with the steering and oil pan interference, so I got out some of my old parts. When I was going to body drop my 82, I made a dropped down drag link I had seen Seth Bomar from Twisted Minis do. I started it but never finished it, but I had enough to get it bolted on to check clearance. I can finally drop the motor and trans in and see how it looks. I'll probably do that in the following few weeks. I attached before and after pics.
No, I've been really lazy on this lately. It's cold out now so all I've been messing with is the motor that's going in her. The block and head are STILL at the machine shop. I called yesterday and finally got them to fess up that they haven't even started on it yet. At least they were honest I guess. They told me to call back at the end of the week and get on them about it. Other than that I've just been collecting parts and reading on how to build the thing. I'm looking for some options on a stronger axle if anyone has suggestions. I'll post some pics as soon as I get some more.
I found a 4x4 website that had some useful information on a 7MGTE swap. The guy put one in his 1980. It's nice to look at because it shows all the problems you might run into if you do the same swap. Shows some pics of a 7MGTE under the hood of the 79-83 body style which is useful too. 7mgte motor swap into 80 - Page 4 - YotaTech Forums
7m's oiling system is a joke if you do this it will lead to rock soild oiling system ditch the stock oil cooler system and run a oil thermo based one and shim the oil pump by 5 mill and lowering the oil pickup is a good idea as well and another good idea is to cap the rod holes in the stock rod's if you plan to keep them there's no reason to have them since the turbo model has oil jetting and pervents rod knock form the oil bleeding out of the rod barrings
Yeah, I need to figure out something with oil cooling I guess. I shimmed the oil pump spring with a spacer I made and I bought an Arizona Performance oil tube to replace the restrictive one. Next I'll probably shim or bend the pump bracket a little so it picks up oil a little more efficient. I might get some new oil squirters if I think I need some. As for capping the rod holes, I've never heard of that. I'll have to look into that a little more. Is there something you can buy for that? Do you have a 7MGTE in something you're building?
When i was researching the 5mg/7mg NA swap for my '86, I found most of my info on 4x4 websites....It can be frustrating cause we're not running body lifts and straight axles and such. It seemed pretty straight forward though. I have no experience with the swap yet, but it seemed like problem areas were: getting the right oil pan w/ possible notching, hitting your brake booster with a hammer to clear the intake manifold and getting the right mounts to bolt to your stock mounts. I'm sure the turbo swap is on a whole other level though, lol!
Yeah, I love those sites for looking for little hints here and there. Their setups are always different than what I'm doing though. Instead of notching the oil pan, I dropped the drag link down. I put some pics up a few posts ago. Everything else seems to be fairly easy to get in there. How was wiring with the N/A and getting it to run in your truck?
Build is looking good man! I have still been working on mine. Found out the MAP sensor in my MAPECU died and was the root of all my problems. Got a AEM standalone setup that will be going in hopefully this weekend.
That's great that you could narrow it down to that. Just like a hot girl, that stuff is way out of my league! I hope I don't run into problems like that when I start this truck for the first time 10 years from now. I read Supramania.com forums a lot and hopefully I can figure out any problems I have based on the zillions of forums they have. Good luck dude. That thing will be nuts!
I have a good idea what to do when it comes to the 7m https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1y7X_WREvA but yes corking the 7m rods is a good idea every after market rod deletes them. all 7m's suffer from rod knock and bhg's there just no reason to have them if you have oil jetting hell in my car's motor I have no oil jetting or rod jet's to keep my oil high as possible i have abou 85psi cold in my car as for piggy backs and stuff there alot of ways to do it with a 7m lexus afm, 550 c injectorts sfac2 or neo maft pro e manage bule aem v1 or v2 map ecu 1 or 2 hks vpc mine's really the list goes on the simple easy one is lex afm and sfac 550 combo easy to tune does not cost to much money