I swapped out to a dodge v8 small block, swapped out rear axle for a jeep Dana 35 and narrowed it for wider tires inside the wells, I swapped to 15 inch wheels but to get as far inward as I could, I used 15x4 wheels and Coker tires, but with torsion bars lowered, my tires are right at the fender edge, which is causing steering and tracking issues, I need an option to convert the front brakes and rotors and eliminate around 1-1 1/2 inch of space and get the wheels inside the wells, is there a conversion for this, whether newer toyota hubs and brakes, or shorter control arms or hub swaps, thanks

 

I think your problem is the 4-inch wheels. Most likely 0mm offset? Find wheels closer to stock specs with more offset, like 20mm or so...

 

Exactly this. Your best/cheapest option is guna be getting new pizza cutters

 

That’s not possible, I’m running American racing outlaw one wheels, I already have the rear frame narrowed and the Dana rear axle shortened to fit my wider tires, American racing doesn’t have a wheel that’ll fit differently, when I looked up wheels, it immediately offers 15x7’s and those are too wide and are sticking out of my wells, I’ve lowered the truck and I need the front wheels and tires I have farther in the wells, I’ve seen people use larger diameter wheels and have them inside the wells, I’m seeing something g about running 84 or newer front end parts to move it all inward, but having torsion bar suspension, what spindles and control arms and brakes do I use to accomplish this?

 

What is the offset on the wheels?

post a picture of the truck if you can

 

AR's Outlaw (I & II) wheels are part of their "vintage style" copies of wheels from the 70s. Back then, most (non-modular) aftermarket 7" wheels were 0mm offset or, at most (that I could find) +6mm offset. That is why they stick out.

I used to have a set of American Racing, 15x7, 0mm offset, 200S wheels (aka, "Daisies") from the 70s on my truck and they stuck out about an inch. I now have a set of 14x6 Outlaw II on my truck and they have a +6mm offset. They are still kind of flush.

If you want your wheels to tuck in, you're probably going to have to look at "tuner style" wheels that have offsets as high as +50mm. I have a 1988 so I doubt installing arms from 84-88 truck will help. If you want shorter control arms, you're probably going to have to cut and weld your own; I've never seen short arms commercially available...

 

Man I’d seriously hate to have to replace the wheels, it’s been in a seriously tight budget as it is and I’ve never seen wheels that I can get that have front wheel drive and rear wheel drive wheels in the same style

 

Are the tires just rubbing on the fenders or poking past them. Because you can always try just rolling the fender lips and pulling the fender and it will get you some clearance

 

Jetas is right; it's hard to give any meaningful advice based on generalities. What size and offset are your wheels, front and rear? Tire sizes? What size front wheel and tire do you want to install? Do you want tucked, flush, or poking? How low are you or do you want to go? Camber okay?

Back to generalities, there ARE wheels that come in "RWD" and "FWD" offsets but they are usually high end stuff like Volks, SSR mesh, and true three piece wheels from SSR, Weds, Work, and BBS. There are also two-piece wheels (center disk welded to barrel) that can be ordered with custom offsets as well. But you're looking at $1600-$3000 or more per set...

As for swapping front arms, others here would know more about that than me. I have 0 knowledge about the direct interchangeability of the front arms and how their lengths compare...