Made some good progress today. Got the head on, need to torque it. Checked for valve interferance with the piston and don't have any issues. Fixed a few bad exhaust studs, but thats normal on toyota heads. Painted up a new early 20r valve cover as well. Turned out kinda pink. Ill probably sandblast and respray it later.

Heres the block after I cleaned everything. Felpro head gasket.


Heres the new head top and bottom, has a cam and dual valve springs.




Heres that valve cover. Its Testors Burgandy Purple Metal Flake. Should have said Girly Color on the side I two toned the oil cap. Used my armani cologne cap as a mask to keep the center the bronze it was painted before. Sanded the high spots to bare metal. Will paint the TEQ and bare spots white with nail polish after I buy a bottle.



And heres bigger pics of the new knobs and sliders on the dash. 60s ford van sliders and 70s dodge wiper switch knobs. Painted them with clear nail polish and glitter. Panel is painted with candy purple and metal flake bomb cans.

 

How did you prep your block surface?

 

The old head gasket didn't leave any mess so all i had to do was scotch brite it and use a few washes of brake cleaner. Did the same on the head. I also chased, vacuumed, and q-tipped all the head bolt holes and front cover bolt hole. I haven't gotten that surgical on a motor in a while, but i am tired of blowing head gaskets on this motor. I need to stop relying on head bolts and get studs if this one fails. Both times i popped an HG on this block was because of water leaks letting things get too hot.

I will be putting the intake and exhaust on today, filling it with fluids and hopefully getting it to start and run right. Because I just found some leads on CNC machinist jobs today I would love to land, but need the truck back to get there.

 

If you don't switch t studs this time around make sure your head bolts aren't stretched if they have been used a couple times they'll stretch and give Inaccurate torque specs . .with the end result popping head gaskets easy.. or pistons drinking coolant . Oem head bolts can hold so long is there not stretched out

 

I tossed mine out as I planned on either running studs or buying a new set of bolts. (Depending on how the pockets feel when it's time to out everything back together lol )

My gasket came off without any mess as well so ill prep mine the same when it comes time. Thanks!!

 

Yeah, im putting it back together on a tight budget. So if i get a month or more from these bolts and gasket im okay with another tear down later lol. Swap to studs and get another $25 felpro gasket. Simple enough. Ive been doing yard work all day, havent touched the truck yet except to squeeze by for a dirtbike ride this morning lol.

 

Get you a set from engnbldr there good and cheap. Used them on my first build no problems . After i discovered mine were strecthed ..Woulda used them on second build but I went full retard on it ..

 

I barely ha funds to get the oil for it so he's bolts had to be reused. I just busted that little **** bolt under the front of the cam. I ****ing hate that ****ing bolt. So everything has to come back apart and get redone and new gaskets. I wanna just sell the stupid truck at this point. I wish I would have just stuck a dependable dodge small block in there years ago instead I ****ing with these fragile jap motors. Way too much aluminum on these ****in things.

 

** major update **

The hybrid motor is back in action! For those who don't know, my combo is as follows:
* .020" over 22R block with stock type domed pistons
* 20R head with mild porting work, stock size valves
* "Stage 2 cam", will measure specs tomorrow
* Matching dual valve springs
* 4-1 pace setter 1-5/8" header to 2.5" exhaust with chambered muffler
* Msd blaster 2 coil, ngk v power spark plugs, Taylor spiral core wires, new stock type dizzy and cap/rotor
* gasket matched non-egr port 20r intake without the bar between the plenum ports
* weber 32/36 with choke horns cut off, larger jets on idle and main circuits by 3-4 steps
* W52 trans from '79 celica. Same 5th as the trucks. Not like a W58.
* 8" 4.10 spider gear rear end
* 215/45/17 rear tire (noted for gearing sake)
* aluminum radiator for a '95 V6 4runner

If I missed something it's minor. The new changes going from a stock head and cam. Should be more power. Requires 93 with the high compression. Videos tomorrow. Pics later tonight. Still in dirty mode

 

Here's a pic of everything all put back together. I'm gonna pressure wash everything and start painting accessories and small parts. The valve cover paint came out kinda fuchsia but its getting modded a bit so a repaint is planned anyways. Header needs some welds them want to wrap it. Like the look and keep the heat going down the tubes. Few small changes and going to tidy up the passenger fender wiring and rerout the air horns. That's all I can think of right now.

 

Another pic

 

One more

 

I'm also going to remove the windshield squirters and lines. Any other suggestions to clean things up I'm down to consider. I do have new spark plug wire holders , just need to modify them a little.

 

Looks cool, iv always liked those corrugated radiator hoses,looks like a car in the 30s-50s would have.

 

Bout time you got it running. Have you taken it out for a drive yet. Just curious if you can tell a difference in power

 

I use that rad hose because it doesn't suck flat. I put a spring in the lower hose. An yeah, it runs great. Ill take it up the block later. Me and my dad are going to the 1/8 mile drag races first lol. I'm not racin it today.

 

Sweet. I just rolled mine out from hibernating, going to toss the 21r in it so I can move it around.

 

I measured out that "stage 2" cam. It's about .465" lift. Runs really smooth. Took it up and down the street a few times. Now for a real road test. Go run some errands and put about 50 miles on it today. Ill let people know how things go.

I also stuck another interior light in. It's from the center console of an 82-85 celica. Uses the standard Toyota 2 wire plug. I ran it through the glove box wall to the map light plug. Can reach anywhere in the interior if need be. And has a switch to keep it off unless I need it. Also turns off with the interior lights on the head light switch. Here's a pic. Has a magnet base.

 

you happen to see a company name or part number on the end of that bump stick?

 

Nope. No names on the cam. 77yoter got it from whatever shop did his head work. It's about a 465" lift. Runs super strong.