Thank you for the suggestions, see what ended up being the case below:

I tried all this but my end all solution was much simpler, see below:

Ok. So. We all have our points in time when we gloss over something stupid when putting stuff back together and this time, it was my turn.

Let start with the obvious problem, fuel getting to the rail. In my late hours of wrenching, i failed to recognize (to the point of aggravation), that Fuel Pressure Regulators do NOT regulate fuel pressure in the fuel line, they regulate fuel pressure in the rail. Also, the fuel filter is supposed to be in the feed line, not the return. So my issue was i put the return in the wrong spot and the feed in the wrong spot. So no one has this happen to them as well, the order is pump, feed line, fuel filter, rail, fuel pressure regulator, return line. Jeez that was a stupid mistake but i fixed it and the engine started.

With that said, we encounter the next issue (i solved this issue first which saved me some headache). 3RZ engines are fuel injected and unlike their carbureted equivalents, like fuel pressure between 35-80psi. The factory carbureted fuel pumps max out around 10psi. What will end up happening when doing this swap is that the fuel pump will flll the fuel rail, the engine will run for a little bit and then die because the fuel pump cant keep the pressure in the rail high enough. The solution is to swap out the fuel pump. With some older cars, especially carbureted vehicles, the fuel pump is in-line, not in tank. Mine luckily is an in-tank fuel pump mounted to a sending unit. Now, since i have a toyota tacoma parts truck where my engine came from, i decided to scavenge the fuel pump from the tacoma to mount in my sending unit but being the pressure difference and the 20 years of updates, obviously it didnt just drop in so i had to modify it. See below the final product:



Let me explain what i did so people can know for the future. This is the original sending unit from inside the tank of my 1978 toyota sunrader but with a 1997 tacoma fuel pump. It is titled as a 78 but it is actually a 77, this may matter for some people in terms of fuel pump location but make sure to check the Chilton manual to see what you have. What i did was remove the old fuel pump, cut the bottom out of the rubber gasket that held it in place, put that gasket around the bottom of the tacoma fuel pump, and forced it to close. It is very tight and doesnt want to spin. Next i used the original 5/16 line on the tacoma fuel pump, pushed in a 5/16 to 1/4 barbed fitting into the top of the 5/16 line, and cut the 1/4in rubber hose to accommodate to the barbed fitting and 5/16 line length. I wired the fuel pump in accordingly (i cant tell you whether the the black or blue line is positive or negative, just consult the haynes manual for the tacoma and the chilton manual for the pickup. Also remember that one of the wires coming from the original fuel pump is grounded on the hanger, this is the negative for the fuel pump, wire accordingly.

Now, with all of that, i need to note something in regards to fuel line sizing. The tacoma has 5/16 lin throughout the truck. The '78 pickup uses 1/4in line throughout the truck. In terms of stock build, no turbos or superchargers, you shouldn't run into problems with fuel starvation based on what i found online when running smaller fuel lines that original (only one size smaller, not massive differences). With that said though, i will report back once i fire this thing up and run it to redline. I plan to install a wideband o2 sensor to monitor the AFRs when i start driving it so i can test it safely.

On to the next thing, the exhaust has been mostly completed. The cross-under pipe from the factory exhaust manifold, under the trans, and over to the original exhaust in the pickup has been completed and installed using a v-band so i don’t have to deal with spacers, springs, etc. The cross-under pipe does have flex joint to keep it from breaking but the last thing that needs to be completed is a new exhaust hanger needs to be welded on to the original exhaust as i no longer have the hard mounting bracket coming off the trans for it as that is where the new 3rz slave cylinder is located.



Pictured above is the factory exhaust lower header section with new pipe welded on. I dont have a pic of the completed cross-under pipe but i'll grab one later and post it.


Next on my list was the steering, a nightmare honestly. I had my buddy try to make one but he ended up cutting it making it significantly more difficult in the lone run unfortunately. So i went to order a new one, wrong one. I looked all over online for a new one, doesn't exist for my model. So we were left with using what we had to fabricate one. We used the mounting points for the old steering rack that we cut up, welded on some chromoly to make the distance and also push the arm that goes across back and run it under the trans. He used a hydraulic press we had to bend it a little bit so it would fit under the trans and then we put it on. With steering, this was a misstep because this is one of THE MOST IMPORTANT functions of the car. I turned once to the left on gravel, then started turning back, and.....snap. Took it off, and he went to town reinforcing it with top and bottom plates, angles, and end caps on the chromoly. With it properly reinforced, i rubbered coated it and reinstalled it. Its not perfect by any means but thanks to brand new tie rods, adjustment sleeves, pitman arm, and idler arm, i got the wheels straight and it feels strong. Will post a picture later.

Next up on my large collection of things to do, here is my list:

• Grease new steering rack ball joints
• Weld Exhaust hangers
• Complete the weld on the backside of the v-band (we ran out of gas)
• Replace Front Brakes (first time working with spindles and for some reason, toyota thought it was a good idea to mount the brake disks on the BACK of the hub. So now i have to repack the bearings...fun)
• Remove secondary auxiliary fuel pump installed by the previous owner.
• Plumb and Organize fuel lines
• Remove, paint, and reinstall the modified transmission crossmember
• Seal the trans tunnel (its still a gapping hole where i cut the floor for the new trans shift mech)
• Cut out and replace rusted area under battery tray
• Wire coolant fan and manual control switch
• Finish mounting the 3rz ecu
• Figure out the speedometer (i honestly need some help with this. The w55 is electronic, my truck ins mechanical, id love to not modify the factory gauge cluster and just make it work but i don’t know how to do that or if they even sell a geared speedo cable that can work)
• Find and fix brake pedal electrical issue (when i did start the engine, it stayed on when i turned the key to off until i released the brake pedal. Don’t know what thats all about the wiring in this is a night more so now i have to go and chase that problem)
• Replace turn signal switch (it clicks once and then the turn signal stays on....wonderful)
• Rewire turn signals and brake lights (may just completely replace them and start from scratch)
• Replace windshield......Where can i find one? Anyone know?
• Replace door seals (rock auto stocks them thankfully)
• Fill transmission with new gear oil
• Plumb intake (i think im going to stick with the original factory intake and just install a cone filter with a wrap on it to keep sand and smaller particulates out)
• Plumb coolant lines (still not quite sure how im going to make this work with the entry to the heater core being right next to the exhaust but the heater core isnt a priority right now)
• Purchase and install new coolant overflow and wiper fluid tanks (mine were disintegrating thanks to the New Mexico heat and dry air)
• Bleed coolant system
• Organize under-hood wiring (mostly need to clean it up and delete all the plugs i don’t need)
• Delete unnecessary under-dash wiring (theres house wire ties and a nightmare of unnecessary wiring all over the place underneath, need to get rid of everything that goes to nowhere)
• Replace and install new o2 sensors (the tacoma o2 sensors have a 2 bolt mounting bracket rather than a typical screw type. I found that the downstream 1997 corolla has the same wire harness plug but the screw type mount so i bought 2 of those to solve that issue)
• Cap and seal old and unnecessary EVAP lines

Any help on where i could find a windshield would be greatly appreciated because I cant find them online anywhere. Thanks!

 

Nice progress! My resources and knowledge are limited, but I can try to help with your sourcing of a new Coolant/Washer Fluid Jar Assembly and related parts. I can't find an exact part number for a 1977 overflow, but the closest I got to is the 1979 jar, which is Toyota Part #'s as follows with specs:

JAR ASSY.
1.7 Litre : Toyota Part # 85330-14012
2.5 Litre : (08/1978 - 01/1979) - Toyota Part # 85330-89106
2.5 Litre : (02/1979 - 06/1983) - Toyota Part # 85330-89107
1.7 Litre : (02/1979 - 06/1983) - Toyota Part # 85330-89108

CAP (For the windshield washer container!)
1.7 Litre : 85332-20020
2.5 Litre, 2.1 Litre : 85332-20060 (NOTE: Not sure if there is a difference of sizing for the jar fitments, but given theres two different parts for it, I'd double check it somehow, where'd the 2.1 Litre came from, i dunno!)

CAP (For the coolant container!)
(08/1978 - 01/1979) - 85037-14010
(02/1979 - 06/1983) - 85339-14010

HOSE (The hose that runs from the coolant reserve tank to the top of where your radiator cap goes!)
90445-12077

A Bracket of some sort that apparently attaches to the above-mentioned hose for the 1979s
90463-10012

Another bracket, but specifically for the 1.7 Litre jars (Screws included)
1.7 Litre - 85361-14071
Screw 1 - 91651-40816
Screw 2 - 91651-40818 (Why these are different part #'s and potentially different screws? Beats me)

CLIPS (For that hose from coolant tank-to-radiator)
90467-11085 (TWO REQUIRED)

BREATHER HOSE (aka that hose that runs off the coolant cap in between the jars and down onto the fender for any sort of overfilling)
85338-14020
COLD SPEC - 85338-20020

I also have the part #'s for all the windshield washer nozzle piping and whatnot if you also need those, but hopefully this should help. Sorry it's not exactly for a 1977, but maybe it can work somehow? Not sure if you can still find the jars themselves online anywhere, for any of the 4th/3rd gens, so maybe a wrecking yard or ebay could work; thankfully my jars are still in good condition miraculously, shame I don't have any spares. Kinda wish they were metal... thanks Arizona heat

 

You need to use hose and connections that are rated for fuel injection. Your barb and rubber hose connections will not last. Just a heads-up.

 

Holy part numbers. You have your info locked and loaded. I appreciate all this and hope i am able to use some of it! Thank you!

So the hose that is between the pump and the barbed connection is the factory hose that was on the fuel pump inside the tacoma part vehicle's tank with the clips that were being used on it. As for the hose that is going from the barbed connection to the 1/4in line, that is the original hose inside the '78 pickup's tank. Im not too worried about it as it is all factory equipment, but i will keep it in mind if my vehicle suddenly dies and is fuel starved.

 

Fuel injection operates at extremely high pressure. Not the low pressure used in carburetors.
You also will
need a low pressure return line to the tank.
You try to run injection pressure through any non rated line and the outcome will not be good.
I’m done here. Hopefully the worst that will happen is a leak.

 

I have an update with a bunch of pictures.

So, i've been slowly but surely checking off that massive list. So far i have repacked the bearings and installed the new brake disks. I noticed the calipers had torn slide boots and rather than just going out on the road with those, for $30 each, i bought new calipers for the front that i am going to replace this week. Pic below of the new disks installed:



Yesterday i got the coolant lines sorted and ready to be bled. Using the original radiator for the rv, i cut the heater core return line near the heater core exit, put a 5/8in 3 way tee adapter that hooked up to one of the coolant exit holes at the back of the 3rz. Then, using the original hose for the heater core entry, i pulled on the heater core entry pipe and forced it into an upward angle. Then i installed a 1in cable clamp from home depot to hold to hose where i wanted it, then merged it with the factory hose coming out of the other exit on the back on the 3rz using a 5/8 to 3/4 brass adapter from advanced. I don’t have a picture as those areas are very tight back there.

As promised previously, here are pictures of the exhaust cross-under pipe:







You can see 2 o2 sensor bungs welded to it, that is where i have since mounted the o2 sensors. Now, i couldnt use the original o2 sensors from the tacoma due to them being of the flange (2 mounting holes with gasket) style so i bought a downstream (upstream wont work) o2 sensor off a 1997 toyota corolla with a 2L which has the same exact plug and it a screw type o2 sensor. I actually bought and upstream and downstream which helped me know the upstream doesnt work (its only a 2 prong, not a 4 prong).

Next step was to fix the fuel lines. I havent found a good place for these to live permanently but for right now, they are wire tied together and sitting on the engine cross member with a direct line of sight from the road. This is not a good location for obvious reasons so im thinking about where i could safely move them to.

Intake has been plumbed. Im using the original resonator box that sat above the valve cover, directly connected to the MAF housing, and will be installing a cone filter onto that i got of ebay for $30. I plan to run a mesh filter over the cone filter to keep misc crap out of there. It is sufficient.

Trans crossmember has been removed and painted with rust resistant paint. I can't install it back in until i cut the floor out to compensate for the taller shifter mech of the W55. Will post pictures when i get that done. Also still need to take care of the battery tray situation as that is currently a rust mess.

I currently am waiting on new door seals and a new windshield seal. if you look closely at my windshield in any of the pics, you can see some one shot it with a gun. It didnt make it through as the glass is not tempered and is original from 1978 but i need to get that replaced. This next part is important for anyone looking for glass for these.

Glass America, a windshield installer, directed me to the site www.glass-seekers.com after they couldn't find me glass. I called glass seekers immediately and within 3hrs they called me back and found a windshield for $550. With freight shipping and packaging, im looking at $850 for a windshield, not even installed. Im gonna hold off on that for now but i don’t really have a choice as the chance of being able to remove a windshield from a parts truck without breaking it is borderline impossible so im gonna have to suffer through that soon.

Lastly, i wanted to share some details and images of my steering rack. I was able to get brand new inner and outer tie rods, pitman arm, and idler arm off rockauto all brand new. My current set up involved cutting the rack about 2in after the inner tie rod hole and welding on 1in diameter by 6in long chromoly tubing towards the rear of the vehicle. Then, we bent that same 1in chromoly tubing to have a similar roundness to the transmission and welded that to the ends of the 6in chromoly rear extensions. Next we reinforced the hell out of it with inner triangles, welded end caps, and fuel tig weld penetration through the tubing. I followed that up by coating it in 3 coats of rust preventative and 5 heavy coats of rubberized undercoating to keep it from ever rusting. I plan to cap the ends with rubber to keep water from collecting in the lower section. Let me know what you think:







Should be in a good enough place to drive it for a vin check this Friday, will post some pictures once i get it on the road!

 

The lines that im running to and from the tank, both feed and return are 20 Bar line meant to withstand those kinds of pressures. The only line i can see being the issue is the small 3in of line in the tank going from the barbed fitting to the 1/4in feed hard line. The factory tacoma fuel pressure produced by the fuel pump is between 35 and 80 psi or about 2 1/3 bar to about 6 bar. With 20 bar line, i don’t know how i would have an issue other than the 3in of in tank hose. Any line that wasn't a hard line on the vehicle was replaces with 20bar line on both feed and return.

 

Looks like you're making good progress.

Personally I dunno if I'd ever ride in a rig with no airbags and a 6" offset steering link like that

 

That drag link is scary tbh. Should've made it shorter and fit closer to the space between the oil pan/trans. Or even better notch the pan if possible

 

Any chance of the 20r oil pan fitting? The gaskets look very similar a bit of drilling new holes maybe?

 

Does the amount its offset make a different if it is properly supported and strong material? I feel like if it was gonna break, it would break on gravel or turning in a parking lot so at low speeds.

If i had tried to notch the pan, it would have had to cut into the oil pickup as it was way too far back where the steering link would go straight through the pan like a GTR RB26 front drive shaft. Also we tried to fit it between the trans and oil pan and we ran into serious clearance issues as the link moves slightly back and forth when going from side to side.

 

It looks really close, id be worried about getting a good seal and the oil pickup working

 

Update.

Brakes are installed, just need to be bled. With pads, rotors, and reman calipers, the front brake rebuild was like $150. Can't say no to that. Also repacked the bearings in the process so even better. Pic below:



Next i went to tackling the hole in the trans tunnel. The shifter mech is mounted on top of the W55 trans unlike the old side mounted mech of the L43 4-speed that previously took its place. See the hole below:



Now, for anyone wondering why the hole is that big, i wanted enough room for the trans to move around without hitting anything if i hit a big bump. I think back to my uncle's only volva 240 with bad trans mounts that used to jump and hit the bottom of the trans tunnel every time he shifted. It was hilarious but i don’t want that in my rolling house so extra room is need. I will preface this like i have in the past...I am not a welder. I can get a good tack now and then but the majority are terrible but hold it together enough to be structurally sound.

To get started, i made a cardboard template that fit the way i wanted it to and moved to cutting out the pieces i needed out of a decent thickness steel plate. I could have been thinner but i didnt want to burn through it as quickly when welding it. Then i bent it in a sheet metal break and drilled it with a 3in hole bit. See below:



Next i cut 2 side pieces that roughly fit, tacked them on either side and test fit:





Its by no means perfect but it is good enough. Then i used this time to try and weld a little extra just to try to get better, i had some burn through and some ugly welds but i finally got an ok one on the flat front filler piece.



Next i prepped the surface in the car with a flap disk and started welding. I didnt attempt to fill all the gaps as i plan to seam seal it from the top and bottom to keep water from getting through. Its not perfect but i plan to cover it with carpet and a new circular shift boot as i love the old look of those. But this is where i finished with this for the night. Wanted to let it all cool down before going at it with the seam sealer. Here is the final product. Again, not professional but good enough to serve its purpose:







We then moved on to start patching the rust under the battery tray area. We made it this far before calling it a night as it was getting late and i had to be up for work in the morning:



Still got a ways to go on the battery tray area but we started molding it into place with a sledge. I plan to seam seal this as well to keep water out and protect the bad welds from water.

The last thing i worked on was figuring out the throttle cable situation. I tried to use the tacoma throttle pedal assembly but the heater core mounting bracket was in the way in the back and if i spaced it out, when pressing the gas pedal, it would hit the heater core pipe so the factory throttle went back in. The factory was a solid arm based throttle linkage system while the 3RZ is a cable based system. We thought through a few options but ultimately decided to keep one of the original rods. I ordered a throttle cable with a ball at one end and a pipe style at the other end. I will need to make a bracket to mount the ball side but otherwise it should work. Hope to be driving it this weekend for the first time!

 

Ok, so here is where i stand currently.

It runs but it is having problems. I am able to move it but it bogs hard which i'll explain further down below but for now, heres a pic:



So heres whats been happening. I was able to drive it up and down the street the other day but it was running horribly. It was backfiring through the intake, bogging down, and didnt want to accelerate. We assumed it may be a grounding issue so we played with some of the grounds and then it wouldn't start. We checked the codes and got the code p1310 which says its an ignition coil issue at coil #3. We replaced the coil but it still wouldn't start. Played with some grounds and sanding off some paint at the ground that comes off the ignition coil area and now it runs again but with issues.

The code p1310 has since gone away but now we have the code p0450 which is an EVAP code that i don't think should actually cause the following problem but i could be wrong. So heres whats happening. It starts up great and idles perfectly. Then you give it throttle and it will bog. When you give it full throttle it will work its way, struggling to do so, up to 3800rpms and then just sit there for a few seconds despite being full throttle and then you come off the gas a little bit and go back to full throttle and then it takes off to redline. Its not the throttle linkage as we already checked that. Then when i try to move the truck, it bogs under any load like it has no power to actually more the rv but i am not getting any other codes other than the p0450.

From the research i've done, people are saying it could be a couple different things. Some say its the MAF so i am going to clean that today and see if that works. Some say its fuel, i know i have plenty of fuel pressure and i know the fuel pump is running because i can here it and it idles fine and revs to redline cleanly after the stuttering at 3800rpms. So that makes me feel like i can eliminate fueling as the cause. The next thing people say is tuning. I have the o2 sensors relatively close to each other with no catalytic converter in between so they should read the same despite not having any codes for that which is strange but whatever. Another thing people say is that it could be a bad camshaft position sensor but this engine ran with no issues prior to being installed into this.

Im at a loss at this point so any help or thoughts are much appreciated.

 

it's great that you got it running and moving, don't give up! from what you describe how the engine is running it sounds like fuel pressure to me, (I did read what you said) I would recommend you get a gauge and read the pressure at the rail. You can Tee into the fuel line, or some rails have a plug that can be removed and a gauge fitted. It's possible that the fuel pressure regulator was damaged when you hooked up the fuel lines the wrong way. Put the gauge somewhere you can see it when driving. Low pressure could also be a blocked filter, sucking in air, a bad pump, bad voltage to pump, I'm sure you checked already.
The other thing is if you have a timing light you can pull a coil and fit a spark plug lead to it and check that the timing is at least correct and not jumping around everywhere. If it has no timing marks just make your own with a paint pen.

 

So, ended up being a bad ground...of course. Fixed the ground from the ignition coils to the frame and this seemed to solve the issue. I managed to drive the RV 40 miles to my parents house for the next phase but experienced a few issues along the way.





Issue 1: No power on hills. It surges hard core and i believe it is due to it not getting enough fuel. Its a 1978 so i don’t believe i have a baffled fuel tank so that could be why it surges and i lose all power as the power comes back when im on flat ground. I'm looking into solving this with a surge tank or a new baffled gas tank but i'm honestly not sure what to do, maybe someone has a better idea.

Issue 2: More wiring issues related to the ignition switch. Vehicle will stay running if i pull the key out with the brake pushed in or the lights on. Obviously some previous owners did NOT know what they were doing when they wired some stuff in. Thinking of ripping out all the factory wiring and starting from scratch. Seems like the only way to fix it.

Issue 3: No headlights. Probably a grounding issue. Would be solved with the solution above.

Issue 4: Heater core was leaking inside the RV so i bypassed it entirely. I plan to just remove everything from the front of the RV and rebuild it, fix some possible rust holes, and clean up the wiring shit show back there.

Issue 5: The suspension is completely shot. Borderline unsafe to drive. Need to replace the front shocks and swap in the new 1 ton rear end with heavy duty RV shocks. The new rear end has air bags for rv leveling, don’t know if im going to hook them up, might just use chocks for leveling.

Issue 6: After much consideration and peoples fear of dying over my steering situation, i plan to buy another t-100 pan and have my welder friend notch it for a steering center link replacement. I already ordered one that is similar, just need to get a pitman arm and idler arm that don’t have the ball joints in them. Harder to find than i thought but considering that the one i need is in Cali and the dismantler wont ship it, theres not much that i can do even though they have one.

 

Issue 2 sounds similar to my Van with the key; i can pull out the key any time while the ignition is on ACC or RUN, running or not and you can drive it without a key. I use this method to take the key with me and keep it idling somewhere as it suffers from heat soak and i'd rather not sit and wait for the fuel to return to a liquid state in the rail.
Probably a worn out tumbler. However, given it's very specific "Vehicle will stay running if i pull the key out with the brake pushed in or the lights on" i'm guessing the truck will not continue running if the brake is not applied or any lights (Head, Hi Beam, or Running) on? quite unusual... could help with a bit more elaboration on this.

Issue 3, same boat for my Van, although replacing the hi and low beam sealed beams did somewhat fix the issue as they come on more often, but not at my command per se. did note my 40Amp fuse for the headlights was blown, but how or what caused it is still unknown. can't say much here except checking fuses, associated relay(s) and wiring perhaps.

 

For issue 2, the ignition and key are brand new so i know its not a broken tumbler, just wiring. There are so many wire taps and stuff like that underneath the dash from years of being messed with by previous owners that it is probably a wiring issue.

As for issue 3, i know the fuse isnt blow and the headlights worked great prior to the engine swap so i know they work. Just more wiring shit to chase down unfortunately.

 

Im not sure if this is helpful, Toyota Corona about 74 to 83 have very similar front steering and brakes, its possible the steering link is the same but you would have to measure it, they have no ball joints. The Corona was far more common here in AU
Also, the headlight brake light engine running sounds like an earth, the headlights have power supplied to them and are earth via the dip switch. I would check around the dip switch area, as if the earth is shared with other systems it will supply power via the headlights through the dip switch, via the earth connection (which is not earthed) and to other systems like your brake lights or ECU

 

Figured after over a month of silence, id give an update:

I've mostly moved on from mechanical stuff at this point with a few exceptions that will need to be fixed within the next month in a half.

First is the rear foolie axle. Its a 1/2 axle with an additional wheel bolted on each side that can't handle the weight from factory. Post 1985? i think had a recall but mine being a '78 model year (actually '77 chassis), that doesn't apply to me. I picked up a 1986 toyota motorhome 1 ton full float rear end i plan to swap in. I understand the spring perches need to be moved inward a little bit to match the old frame but that isn't the difficult part. The part im curious about is the driveshaft mounting to the new rear end. From my understanding, i can swap the center section from my 1/2 ton for the center section of the 1 ton and then everything should bolt up. Correct me if im wrong, but that information came from the following link:

https://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/...78-toyota-chinook/&tab=comments#comment-36219

If that doesn't work, i'll just need to get the driveshaft modified to be able to attached to the newer center section.

Second mechanical item that needs to be addressed is the steering center link. Based on what you guys said, its worrisome so i tracked down an unmodified center link from a member here on the forum and he sent it over. With that in had, i will snag another oil pan and get it notched to accommodate the original location of the factory center link.

Third non-rv specific item is the wiring. Its all over the place and needs to be cleaned up.

Fourth item is the speedometer cable. i'd love to keep the factory mechanical speedometer so i'll need to purchase the adapters needed for the W55 to swap from electronic to mechanical as well as remove the electronic sensor in the first place as the screw used to bolt it in is stripped....of course.

Fifth and last item is the alternator, im going to need to go with a monster alternator to accommodate the RV and other vehicle related power draws. Factory 3RZ alternator is either 70amp or 80amp...either or it doesnt matter, its not enough. Between my new 500w light bar (42amp draw), 60amp dc-dc lithium battery charger, running lights, potential electronic AC/Heat installation, and additional 20% overhead to prevent killing the alternator, im gonna need about a 240amp alternator aka a custom option. They run around $350-$400 but will be worth it considering my rv build has no propane and runs entirely off of batteries.

As for RV related problems, we completely gutted the interior to rebuild from scratch. The original RV had no wall insulation, minimal roof insulation, R-5 floor insulation, and multiple roof leaks (i bought a fiberglass rv so we didnt have leaks but its 45 years old, i can't say im surprised. I've patched, sealed, used bondo, and sprayed primer over all the holes that weren't needed to decrease the chances of leaks as well. Also replaced the front passenger side upper window gasket as it was leaking and dried out.

Here is where we are at. Wall and ceiling insulation is going in, subfloor with additional r-6 insulation is in, both roof fans are install, solar wiring duct is installed, dual AC vent ducts are installed, shore power plug is installed, and the sliding bed will be going in this weekend.


Moving along, slowly but surely.

Pics for reference: