Recently started this project and although the motor/trans are now physically in the truck it needs to be whipped with a wire feed; anything but a bolt in process.
... And stupid cell phone won't allow me to attach pics. I have gotten quite a few ideas for this swap from this forum and owe gratitude to the members here. Wound up moving the whole trans xmember back instead of chopping it and plan to mount it with a combo of bolting and welding. The trans mount itself is now dropped down into the xmember and bolted to the bottom instead of top as would be stock. Lines up well but I expect to hear some contact in the tunnel when it's finally driven... oh well. Still tinkering with motor mounts but those should be easier. Will try to get more pics of the hacking a.m.
Any pics or information about your swap would be GREATLY appreciated. I know I will be doing this to my '74 in the near future if end up keeping for any amount of time. Why will it make contact in the tunnel is the clearance that tight?
18rc to 2xr is a straight bolt in process... if you have the 75 20r motor mount brackets. iirc they are a bit taller then the 18r brackets and a lil bit forward. you can use the OG tranny i realize its a bit late for this info. i did a swap into my 74 corona, never really looked under the hood on a 74 hilux, dont think they'd be that much different.
It sits high on the stock motor mount brackets. Should be fine though. The orig tranny (l42?) was first option but it was making a fair bit of noise. I'm not sure where to run the heater core lines. Can I bypass the intake manifold coolant?
One can hopefully see in avatar pic where the mount has been dropped into and bolted to the bottom of xmember. This lines up surprisingly well when the motor mounts are aligned for and aft to original bolt holes. Will run a bead around the 2 flat washers, though it's prob not needed. Trying to keep welding to a minimum as I have faith in the penetration of my 90 amp flux core.
run a heater line from the center intake port on the head and off one side of the timing cover. or loop from tcover to intake and plug the rest. your tranny mount looks good, how does the driveline like it?
Many thanx! I'm assuming then that the 2 off back of timing cover are both outs (or +). For some odd reason the motor/trans ends at the exact same place. The og trans had a flanged yoke that bolted on to the 2 piece carrier bearing equipped driveline. The spline however is different. If I can disassemble the u-joint and replace the yoke with the standard style that goes in the later trucks it will fit perfectly. This was one of the few saving graces to this swap.
Poor old Pathfinder went to a better place today so this is the wknd. Pic shows the mating of 87 to 74 motor mount. Drilled new hole and simply bolted up 2 halves offset by1.75" then bolted right to 74 brackets. Pass side same. Apologies for inability to attach pics to individual postings but I'm all stupid and junk. And HTC evos suck.
I might be selling my 73, has a 22r and a w58 with the 8" diff with 1:307 rear end in it. jest needs a steering bot which you have, or you can swap my parts into yours...
Thanx for offer but I'll get this one going. Just had a prissy moment. The adaptation to motor and w55 is done so now it's just down bolting all the parts on- dist, rad, driveline, etc. If I was to do this again I would have got a Datsun 260z and thrown a 795$ GM goodwrench 350 and wc T5 in. In prob have the time no less.
87 radiator fits after drilling new mounting holes. 74 was at least a core thicker but newer rad clears clutch fan, barely. Must install fan BEFORE dropping rad in.
So I'm at the stage of wiring on the 22r. Would appreciate advice on wiring a newer internally regulated alternator. Have white to batt., red to ign., yellow to charge light, but am unsure if this is correct. Also unsure of which wire should supply ign. 12v+ to ignitor/coil. Anybody remember offhandedly what they did to adapt the newer 22r stuff to Hilux?
Not sure how or why but I bumped the starter and it fired up into smooth idle. Wasn't expected and I didn't get to crank some oil pressure into it first but it's prob fine. Did run it up around 2 for 1st 15mns, though I suspect cam break in isn't as critical on an OHC motor. Now if I can get the exhaust to clear frame- pretty loud leak out of manifold- head pipe junction.
Exhaust headpipe needs to be cut and extended 1" on both tubes to clear frame rail due to the height at which the 22r is mounted in truck. Other than that it should be ready to go.