Probably going to do my headlights this week. Plan on installing some relays. Came up with a hack for solder seal. They are great little splice connectors that are lacking material for higher loads. So I use 2 to make one doubling my solder. You lose half your stock but you really shouldn't need to do a bunch of splicing. I bought a bunch of them then released I need ring terminals and things like that more then splices.

 

Headlights are in. Still need to wire the relays in. I'll work on that later. Really just wanted to make sure they fit. Turns out I've been running my surrounds the opposite way this whole time. When I went to line up the new ones I was way out of wack and I was never able to get the old ones to line up right. I still need to do some tweaking and make a date with a tree and ratchet strap. The passenger side is pushed in a bit.

 

Huh!

Looking at your pic, something totally inconsequential and irrelevant struck me:

It's funny how square fog/driving auxiliary lights look good on a car with round headlights and round fog/driving auxiliary lights look good on a car with square headlights...

Truck looks good. Like those Amber high beams...

 

I think it depends on the style of the car and how you have them placed. The ae86 looks really good with square fog lights down low but if you have round ones in the same spot it looks out of place.

 

True, but I think big, round Oscars mounted above the bumpers would be cool looking but big rectangular fog/driving lights not so much...

Hmmmmm... maybe my first thought applies mainly to lights mounted above the bumpers...

 

Went ahead and installed the o2 for the wideband. It finally works. Spent a little time tuning on the carbs and got them a lot closers to where they need to be. Seems I worked out the dead spot when you cracked the throttle. Does seem to go a little lean at 3000k then fatten up after.

 

Nice! Wideband is such the way to go.
Glad you got things up to snuff.

 

With the duel carbs it's a mix of everything. The flow meter, color tune, reading plugs, and wideband are all things you get familiar with when you work with them.

 

Hit up the car show. I made a video of the little drive there but it's uneventful so not worth posting. I will do a full pull soon. Wish I would of rolled the camera on the way home because I let it really rip for the first time. All I can say is man does it pull hard.

 

I guess the video is worth posting because the mic did pick up this weird ringing I've been getting. Not all that sure what it is. Doesn't sound like a knock and I feel like if it was my valves it would go bad fast ( Im a little closer then stock lol) Thinking body panels but they mostly make it sound like it has a knock of really bad rocker tic. Pulled a lot of lose shit out of the cab and bed so I don't think its something like that. The glove box isn't packed with shit. I think its up front. Only happens while driving. It might be hard to hear. On my pc I cant hear it but my phone I can clear as day. Its like a school bell. You'll hear it after the first few seconds for over a minute.

Ps there is a good joke to be made about this. Hoping someone says it.

 

I've come up with a couple things on my own about what the ringing could. Read that a header can make a motor ring because of how it absorbs frequencies. Even a really heavy motor can do it. It can also be detonation and the header is helping it be more audible. I've been playing with my fuel type and accidently got 87 last time. Ran 91 at first not sure if I heard it then. From my calculations I'm at 10.5 to 1. Pretty sure I do need higher octane fuel.

 

The joke I'm looking for.

 

It could be your fuel. Lower octane does knock more. I know it's not necessary, but I always run 91. I tested that in a shop once with two gas cans on a carb'd ford 289. Idk if it's the additives or the higher octane but it runs smoother, quieter, and adds pepp to the engine.

On a different note, I've heard engines run noisier when warm. Viscosity within the oil when heated makes it thin.. thinner oil, looser tolerances? Idk just a thought. But it sounds valve train related as opposed to combustion chamber/bottom end noise.

 

Need to go back and do the lash and check the cam again but a majority of that sound is the lower part or the grill hitting the valance. It's a full floater. The sound is like a school or fire bell. Pretty rpm dependent. Very distinct. I've never had a good reference of what pinging sounded like but leaning towards it. I'll bump the octane level and go through ignition timing.

 

You can really hear it 28 seconds in. Then again I'm off throttle. So I'm lost again.

 

Someone brought up the dust shield on the transmission and that it being lose can give a weird ting sound. Just checked mine its not lose but tapping it does give me pretty much the same ring I hear. I'm going to look at rigging up a mic to pick it up.

 

Oh I see what you're saying, it's at 10sec and 28sec in your video. Oh yeah, that's definitely an external vibration. It does sound like lite metal clap.. [tranny heatshield, loose exhaust, exhaust heatshield, dust/flywheel cover, cowl before the windshield, under dash loose panel contact, etc] sick vibration tho, I bet it gets annoying.

 

I definitely heard the sound, sounded like something large and metal that’s loose and vibrating when you start to accelerate - like a body panel, the bed, something like that to me

 

Not really annoying for me but worrying. Had me thinking I was going to blow up my motor and have parts hit a Ferrari. Lmao

Thinking the dust shield on the back of the trans for the driveshaft. Tapping it gives out the same frequency. Funny thing is it's shaped like a bell.

 

Did my valve lash hot. Didn't make a noticeable difference in the valve train noise. May have to be one of those people that claims these motors always tic. I don't really believe that. I do remember it being pretty quite when I first took it home. The cam looked really good and no metal in the oil. I did talk to a guy that had a problem with a rocker giving him a bad noise. Might be my case. I didn't get the oem rockers just some 60 dollar rockers from yotashop. Might motivate me to get my spare head fully built. I've been holding on to 48mm intake and 44mm exhaust valves with duel springs and ti retainers for the last year. But those should wait. Got other plans.