no, i pulled it out of a 95 lexus sc 300. it's before vvit or whatever they call it. more power then the little truck is ever going to need though.
nothing wrong with it. i dont know much about it other than its a non turbo. so to make it one is a bit of work, but they are pretty sweet cars. one of my favorite 4 doors, and my favorite newer wagon period. but it may have that vvti mentioned. i dunno. drove one with a 6 speed. was sweet.
i want to say the late 90's had the vvti, and are the more desirable engines, but if i remember right the blocks are the same across the board, aside from the oil passages on the turbo models.
thats what i had thought. turbos obviously have different pistons, not sure if the rods and crank are the same or not. probably.
I just nutted in my pants!!!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-...ies?hash=item48373a9fdd&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245
^ thats a good deal for all of that. most places ive been looking at want at least 3 for just the engine. no ecu or wiring or anything else
X2 But he is correct, that is a good price but then again how do you know the engine does not have any problems? And if it does, are you going to go through all the trouble of sending it back? It sure would be bad ass though James
I got the perfect radiator for you I have been working on my engine swap for some time now. I had a custom aluminum double pass radiator made for my swap. The radiator was made by afco radiators. The reason I am not going to use it is I would have to cut my radiator support. By the way my swap is a 7MGTE and I do not want to do that. But with a 2jz swap your support would have to be cut anyway. The 2jz engine is about 2 - 3 inches longer than the 7MGTE. Afco stated that with this radiator there will not be any cooling issues. I ended up ordering another one from them, which allow me to mount it without cutting the radiator support. I paid close to 400.00 for the radiator with shipping. I will let it go for about half that. Its brand new and never been mounted. Can supply photos if needed.
If your radiator support is cut the hood latch will not be there to work. You will have to use hood pins to keep the hood down and locked. I just want to keep the inside latch, to retain the stock look and configuration. My choice.
if you put the radiator further forward than needed, and moved the latch back it would still work. but, you went the route you like. which is cleaner. i dont like hood pins much myself either.