I also have got the last 2 sensors needed so this weekend should be able to get it up and running.

 

So got the AEM standalone installed and got the sensors installed but Rodney's brother stole the laptop so we could not put the base tune on it and get it started. Once we can get the base tune on it it should be good to go.

 

So going to attempt to get the base tune on the truck this weekend and if still a no go then it will be getting towed up to the tuner. Regardless it goes to the tuner this weekend and should be back on the road in by end of this month

 

sounds like a master plan! what fuel are you going to run?

 

For now just 91 to get it back up and running. I might do a C16 tune once I pickup a HKS DLI so I don't get spark blow out at higher boost. Once I go to VA I will tune it on E85 tho.

 

hks dli is a waste of money

 

I have heard that from the 7m guys but the 2jz guys are all about it if you are running a MapECU or AEM V1 as I am.

 

Hks dli is spark fancy capsitor that has 6 channels


really the stock coil will do fine for pump fuel/meth or e85

that turbo's hp limt is about 550 to 600 at the wheel 66 comp wheel mix with the 68 hot side means it will be one fun turbo, but not a huge power maker

for example

my old turbo pte 67,65 t serires with a 68 hot side 24 psi net me 585 @24 psi and power fell at 7000 rpm

same turbo but a 81 hot side 20 psi low comp motor from damage 616 @20 psi and power goes to 8250


so the max my turbo will do is roughly 700

 

Oh I know it will not be a crazy power maker but very fun in a light weight pickup. I know that the 2jz has spark blow out issues if you run anything over 18psi unless you have brand new coils and those are spendy. I am planning to run about 26psi on race gas or E85. I know a lot of 2jz people running that high of PSI on a AEM V1 ECU all have the HKS DLI because it fixes the spark blow out.

 

we had alot of 2jz that don't blow out spark at thing close to that

run copper plugs 1 heat range cooler and gap em a little tighter

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHU_MD5L1x0

he's at 540 plus and 700 pus now and no hks and runs a aem and no not my mk3 the red car stock coils

bad coil's are bad coil's replace them

 

I am just saying off of experience from others that are running the same setup as me. The tuner who I just dropped it off at today has done many supras and that is a common issue with MAPECUs and AEM V1.

With that said truck is in some amazing hands as far as getting it tuned cant wait!

 

doesn't matter what system you run

if your got bad coils/weak, replace them with some thing better band-aids are just what there name say's

 

What kind of lubricants are you running in everything?
I hear a lot of different things to do when you start up the first time and then after so many miles you have to switch to something else.

 

As mine was a JDM used motor just been using the Toyota recommended stuff. I cant remember the grade of the top of my head but I would say you are safe to do the same on your motor and give it some time to break in before you start trying to add power.

 

10 30 make sure it is slippery and none systhick tell full break in is done

but for newer break in it's best to run addtives since the newer oil are stripped of stuff ya need

i run this stuff in all my motor's

ZDDT Engine Oil Supplement

 

Yeah I was thinking that had a newer rebuild for some reason.

Hope your tuner place can get ya fixed up, by the way. I love seeing a fast mini truck.

 

I've heard 10W-30 to start it up with and run it a minute or so. Next, drain it and add your synthetic. Then drain and add again after 500 miles or so. I guess I could do my drain, add regular 10W-30 again but with some additives and then do my synthetic change after 500 miles. I'll have to check that stuff out you recommended.

 

Yeah no rebuild on mine. But he will truck was not in bad shape just some minor issues. From the call I had yesterday it will be finished on the 21st.

 

no ya don't switch that fast

how i break in cars is


get car running make sure no leaks and she is warm then go for a nice hard drive by floorinbg it tell close 1500 away from red line and let decell all the way down and punch the gas again and repeat for about 10 to 15 mins


come home drain oil (retorq head gasket if you have arp and mhg)

then drive it norm and stuff since the major break in is done then swap out oil after 100 km I drain the oil once more then at 500 then at a 1000

then I switch at 6000km

 

So had one last hiccup but sorted that all out now looking like this Wednesday it will be back in my hands. Last thing to do is have the custom tubular bumper made for it.