Now this here, is what I want my rear setup to be. But if you look close, you'll see they have it mounted BEHIND the axle. I wanna do this in the front of the axle. Would it work? I dont care about the hard air lines right now...

 

Links to my 4 link setup. ****ty vids @ night. Let me know if you need better vid / more info.

20121218_172723_zps10cf8b38.mp4 video by pumpkinpirate13 | Photobucket


20121218_173840_zps122150c4.mp4 video by pumpkinpirate13 | Photobucket

 

Thanks for the videos my friend. Helped alot! Cant wait to return the favor...

 

How does all that drop work treat the windshield?

 

Doesn't affect it at all.

 

your truck is coming along nicely!

the only problem i see with doing this exact setup forward is the front upper link bar mounts wouldn't clear the driveshaft. flip the uppers so they're wide in the front and narrow on the axle and it would work.

 

kind of late now but this thread has lots of body drop pics

http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/exterior-body-68/body-drop-2778/

 

Nice to see anothe truck in GA, I'm up in Rome GA.

Truck is coming along quick!! Looking super sweet already. I worked on mine all weekend in the rain. Can't wait for more updates...

 

Yeah im ditching the above picture. Another member here advised me that the upper arms looked short which would allow excess pinion angle change thought the axle travel. So im going simpler. Christmas and the rain has kept me off of it lately. But the cab and body is off of it and the frame has been cleaned and repainted. I'll throw some pics up tonight.

 

A lil mini update I guess. Ive actually done alot, but it was tying up loose ends. Like reinforcing the cab supports, final welding everything and grinding welds, cleaning frame, brake lines, etc. Heres some pics...

These lines had 1/16" of dirt and road grime and oil, etc caked on. Not no mo!


Before I cleaned and painted the frame...


After:


And to help the contours fit back together in the bed, I took the 2.5" for the body drop outta the middle right here, and it turned out good I think.
I am going to grind these welds, but not be too crazy about it being smooth, as I intend on getting color matched Line-X sprayed in...



And thats where I am...Winter temps finally arrived and its gusting wind to 40 mph and rain every other day...makes me wish I had a shop! I have ordered the CanDo trans x-member and I am ordering the 4 link and the notch soon, sometime in January we are going to roll it up to the fab shop to install the notch, 4-link, and Z it. Hopefully we can have all that welded in in a wknd...

I am a Twizted Intentions Prospect member now too...Ga Chapter of course...

 

Hi folks, glad the holidays are over. Ive been dodging rain, wind and cold weather to get stuff done. The entire harness has been re-wire loomed black. Engine has been cleaned, painted up, gasket kit will be here friday...Trans x member should be here anyday. Ordering stuff around the holidays sucks. Cant get anything done. I am leaving for a week Sunday, and wont get anything done. then finally on the 14th I go back to work after being out for a month! Back to 10 hr days...but 3 day wknds! I am selling some stuff in the marketplace and have my PS3 on Ebay to work up some play money..(I dont like messing with my paycheck much)

I cut the gas tank crossmember out in preparation for the notch..As much as I can do to maximize what we get done at the fab shop in a weekend. Once the frames Z'd the cab is going back on.

Thanks to Jason, (UnderConstruction93) He is awesome at giving help, I was looking over some of your posts is the suspension forum about bag plate placement and learned alot...

Im rambling..so Ill post pics later..

 

Anything to help a fellow minitrucker bro! What are you doing for your clutch master cylander? (Pretty sure my spelling is off ) Im gonna start ripping mine apart for the Z this weekend and I was wondering the easiest way to deal with that. I'm told an older model truck has a shorter one? Dunno if that will buy me enough space for 20's... Keep up the good work Bro!

 

I'm gonna follow the method in Steve's cando anti hack build. And am only gonna do 1.25" I have seen about ppl doin 1.5" but what's a 1/4". And if I need to get that I can trim it off the crossmember. Speaking of, my oil pan sits exactly 1" off the engine crossmember. I removed it and looked it over. It's basically a U shaped piece of steel with a piece of flat plate recessed into the U a qtr of an inch. I marked where the oil pan is on the x member and I cut that 1/4" lip off the crossmember.

Now I have 1.25 inches of clearance above the xmember. Once I drop the motor mounts an inch, I'll have a 1/4" clear!

At full left and right lock the draglink clears but strait ahead it's dead on 1 inch from the pan. So when I drop the motor mounts 1 " I'll either section it, shave it a lil bit or bend it down a touch.

Just remember you'll have to drop your motor mounts with the Z.

 

im not even close to this part of building yet but dont you leave the mounts when you z the frame and re tunnel the cab? i may be way off on this but if im wrong ill learn by a response...

 

No my drop was a traditional. The tranny tunnel was never touched. Z ing the frame moves it up a inch and a qtr and the lowers mounts bring it back down an inch. It's for hood clearance, especially with a body drop. Now with no body drop I'm not sure it's an issue.

 

ahhhhh, yes yes....was thinking it was bodied. i stand corrected...

 

Oh and Jason, a friend was telling me to use an '87 Yota clutch cylinder, it's smaller, and the reservoir cap is threaded on, so you can thread a line into it after you flip it into the cab and fill it from the firewall via that line...

 

Oh. What does everyone do with the wire harness that run from the firewall to the engine bay once your bagged and bodied? It has to go somewhere and I'm guessing tuck it up into the top most part of the fender on the inside?

 

Yup. Just tuck it up

 

nice progress in these pages! lookin good