I've had those tires on a few months and I mash through bumps and pot holes pretty hard. Haven't bent one yet, but have managed to skip a modern car CD player a ton so that shows how hard it hits some gnarly holes

They are kuhmo esca I got from discount tire for $56 each. Was like $125 out the door for the fronts. For the price I don't care if they last but they hold great in corners and haven shown too much camber wear for my angle and the miles on them. Deff wanna run them again in the future.

 

I got Kumho Solus tires and hopefully they work out well. I am excited and nervous on how they will fit with the new rims. I have a feelin it gon' scrape

 

I barely scrape. Just gotta tuck that exhaust up from factory.

 

Ok, so this was odd and not what I figured, but I can actually run less backspacing aka deeper front dish with a wider rim.

The section width of the tire sets what will fit, and since the difference in section width from a 5" rim (7.2) to a 7" rim (8), for my 185/60/15 tire, is only 0.8" I can get a deeper front dish with the 7" rim since it's closer to the section width of the tire.

Only thing I see being a hang up, is a 185/60 is only recommended for a 6.5" rim. There's got to be someone out there that will mount it on a 7" rim. Of course I won't even bother with Discount Tire.

It still doesn't sound right, but I've drawn it up several times and part of me says it makes sense. I'm ordering custom steel wheels and have to get this right.

 

C'mon, you live in Texas! When I lived in Texas I could find someone willing to do anything automotive-wise.

Best advice is to find a mom and pop shop and stay away from the lawyered-up franchise tire stores. I know I can find someone to get these mounted locally, but I love a challenge and I know mounting tires isn't rocket science. I have done it before with a machine and by hand. It can't be any worse than mount kart tires by hand, last time I mount some it took almost an hour for 4 tires. 5 inch rims and tires are a PAIN, no leverage.

My tires are out for delivery now but I know they won't arrive before I go to work around 230.

The more I think about it the more I figure I might just massage the fender out a little bit at a time till it will tuck nice. If jdbragg can pull his fenders over a 10" wheel with similar backspace, I should be able to stretch over an 8"!

 

O yea, there are plenty of "tire shops" around here that will probably mount anything. I sold one some old wheels and tires, and they were drilling like the 3rd set of mounting holes in a rim for a guy.

 

Well the tires and spoons showed up at about 2:08 and it was on like donkey-kong. At a frantic pace I got one tore up, mounted on rim, ethered, aired and mounted on truck for a quick pic and removed again to leave for work by 2:30. Lemme tell ya it was chaotic....





^ 4 tires equals 3 rims!



















I regret not straightening out the steering for the pic!!

I will definitely be massaging the wheel well lip a bit.

Tires were fairly easy to get mount on the rims by hand, used soapy water in a spray bottle to lube up the bead area for slipping on the rim. First try at the ether didn't work due to how close the bead was to the inner rim lip, it wasn't allowing the flames to get too the trapped ether. This led to adding more ether thinking I didn't have enough, same thing happened, only a small strip on the outside of the tire lit up from having ether on it. When I realized this and step on the tire to open it up she went pop and fully seated the bead, filling it up to pressure was not extend the bead any further. Just aired it up after that.

 

Yea, a little massaging. Lol. Are those 175/55/16's? What size rim are you mounting them too?

 

They are 175/55R15 Kumhos mounted on ProComp series 97 15x8s.



ATTENTION EVERYONE:

I need opinions on the chrome trim around the wheel-wells, it attaches via the same bolts that hold the plastic inner fender liner so currently on friction and the bent tabs are keeping it on. I might pry it off soon see what the paint looks like underneath, the little spot I did check looked ok. It may be easier to 'massage' the fenders without it. Should I go without or keep it?

And center caps, black or chrome or none. Cost 8$ a piece so idk
Example here

 

With you front fenders, plastic removed, I just tugged with both hands. Little by little until it came out the way I wanted. Did it by accident the first time, but came out nice. Just need to flatten the inner lip now.

 

I did exactly this this morning followed by an aluminum jack handle roll to flatten the inner lip and I got it driving without rubbing while driving, it will still rub with moderate body roll while turning but going straight it will bottom hard before it rubs.

I will try and get some good pics later.

 

This first picture is before the Jack handle rolling



And these to are post Jack handle from a distance, I will get some close-ups soon. I turned the torsion bolts up 3 turns and I will probably go 2 more turns to help with bottoming on everywhere. I love how it sits in front, rear needs to come down bad.

 

Well now that I am static low is it time to bag this bucket? I really need to make friends with someone who can weld good either locally or that can travel. I have a buddy coming out in April but thats just so far away.

Like I mentioned before I plan on a simple wishbone 3 link out back with either double convoluted air bag on bar or sleeved bag on bar. Torsion bar plates and plated lowers(stock or my DJMs) up front.

I have the design all figure out in my head but without being able to weld I am at a stand still for that part of this project.

 

If your going to bag it you will first need to get different tire & rims that sit inside the fenders!
Than do all the research you can for your year ride & see what others have done & used!
Than it is start to collection of the parts :
Dropped front spindles,rear notch,front & rear bag plates , link bars,bags ,what never type of air controller,valves,air tank/tanks,compressor/compressors, air line ,& all the fittings!

Plan it all out /draw it out & do it right & only once!!!

 

Yes! These rims are actually going on my jeep but the tires on the jeep now are not worn out yet. I am looking at the Axis OG 17" in 17x8. The +35 offset works out to a 5.87" backspace which will bring the wheel in 2.5 inches and should tuck nicely. Only foreseeable issue is inner clearance.

I have some experience with bag components and know exactly what I want, if I have an experienced welder around I would just as soon mount up a york 210 for onboard. I really like the accu-air setup but $$$ could be better spent on a simpler valve system. I am used to Chevy C10 setups which are more fun with 1/2" valves, which was a downside to accu-air being 3/8" manifold. I think the weight of these little yotas would be fine with 3/8" though.

 

Well I have been thinking about a rear bag setup and am leaning toward a wishbone three link similar to the one off 3 link that Seth formerly of twistedminis made. My one question is whether a half triangulated 4 link would work as well keeping one link roughly centered front to back, offset from the driveline and rear pumpkin and one link angled.

Something like this, would it be too wacky? Upper links would obviously have to be beefy.

 

Front and rear shocks and my other lowering leaf finally showed up today. Might get things put on tomorrow but I think I want to run by property management office and send a letter to my home owner asking about having 220 installed in the garage. I need to get a welder and get to learning cause I got welding projects to get done on the toyota and my jeep. I can start learning without equipment and that would be a good start. A friend from miami will hopefully be out here in april for work so I can make him weld my crap.

I still need to crank my torsions up some more, I have gone 5 full turns up from stock and still can't go without scraping around here or even get into my driveway.

 

I have that same exact link setup planned for my 78. I already have the link bars. 90-95 4runner lower rear bars and 90s Toyota previa minivan lower rear bars. Cut and ground off the little ebrake cable tabs and shock mounts from previa bars. They have nice rubber mounts. Should work perfect with front leaf hanger trimmed and redrilled. It would push the wheelbase back a hair if you want the lower bar pivoting directing under the axle center from a side view. If you don't mind the rear lower link tab being clocked back a bit they will work fine. That's for a ride height of about 2" off the ground but bar not parallel to street. That would be higher height.

Provide room and board and ill bring my welders and tools down for a week and help you bag it up. I used to live in Vegas a few years back. Would love to go back for a bit. A 220 welder isn't needed for everything. Proper technique with a strong 110 will so yota frames. They aren't that thick.

 

We might be able to make this work! I gotta work on getting this thing registered first and the emissions sniffer may be an issue. Ordered a timing light to rule that out and fixed the two vacuum lines to the distributor, I was under the hood looking at the clutch MC cause it has started leaking under the dash onto the vinyl.

I haven't checked the parts store but are there replacement pistons for these MC or do I have to replace the whole unit. I am gonna see what I can find out but any info would be good.

Also ordered a vacuum hand pump as I believe I have yet another leak somewhere, might be the carb to intake seal as I had to crack the carb loose from the base to access the AAP screws. I'll hit it with some carb cleaner or ether to see if I can pinpoint.


Most importantly I submitted a request thru my property management office for permission from the home-owner to be able to install a 220 outlet in the garage. I am crossing my fingers and hoping big. A positive outcome there would be crazy good!

If approved I am ordering a hobart 190 or similar.

 

Why? Are you getting an electric dryer? (the correct answer is "yes")