Under the national code of practice to be able to modify any vehicle from factory option in Australia now such as engine suspension transmission or such modifications that require approval a collapsible steering column is required or only minor modification such as exhaust and tyre size to modern equivalents are allowed, with the starter motor so long as it turns the motor over and at a reasonable speed it is ok.

 

on another note:
need to replace brake booster & thinking underfloor option to free up some room in engine bay
anyone know of a make/brand i should be using in the stout

 

They never worked from new due to a bonded rubber bung in the vacuum hose (Australia) so both of mine have the brake line from down on the chassis straight up to the master cylinder, it only takes loosening the pipe at the bottom undoing it from the booster twisting it around to the master and without even re bleeding the system instant brake pedal improvement

 

mmmmm that sounds like a plan any more pics that show the sequence/brake line from down on the chassis straight up to the master cylinder,,,
i will probably attach it straight to the carburettor or something stupid without a little help

thanks

 

So if you can see I loosened off the brake line down near the chassis and when I removed the bendix hydrovac I just twisted this particular brake line around to the master cylinder, bent the end slightly so I could get get the thread to line up with the master cylinder and when in place and tightened up I just with minimum effort bent the brake line away slightly from the steering column

 

Thanks have got a mechanic comming around on the weekend to help me
With some stuff will keep you updated

Is that bake line pretty tuff won't brake when I bend it

 

It dose not really need bending just manipulation

 

faaaarrrrrrrrrk...damn stout

okay replace coil & spark plugs...
car ticking over fuel is getting through i think spark is the problem (no spark)

the other day wiring from cigaret lighter heated up and burnt thought wondering this may have affected some other wiring that now has stop car from going

there is a small black hose from distributor to carburettor that is crack would this be a problem ?
or perhaps i have put leads on in the wrong order (photo anyone )

oh well back to it not going to let it get the better of me

 

Timing is 1-3-4-2 little hose from carb to distributor is for vacuum advance and only has effect if engine is up in the revs or under load. Timing should be when the harmonic balance (below the fan) is around tdc top dead centre or 10º before the rotor button under the distributor cap should be pointing at roughly one toward the engine or four 180º away from the engine

 

list of parts

new points for distributor
new distributor condenser
& a good set of leads

is there a electronic ignition kit available toyota stout

are these available for stout

 

For pointless ignition research what the 18R-G options are

Edit

Or the 22r efi

 

thanks

with the brake booster hose what do you plug the other end with
once removed



got car running again this morning have a look at picture with leads as this is the configuration that got engine running but seems to be different to the lead order than suggested....mmmmmmm works though so happy
guessing there on the correct way if engine runs

 

I had some loctite e-pox-e ribbon and just used some of that to block the fitting in the manifold, although I have seen them welded up or a solid fitting.

I posted this before

 

all good car running again now i want to attempt a general tune up of engine
what s the best way to make sure throttle adjusting screw & idle screw are in there right position
seem to be burning alot of fuel at the moment lot of smoke

 

If the engine idles high when it is hot the idle mixture is lean, if it idles low and stalls when cold the idle mixture is to rich and smoke is it black or white

 

getting some new brake shoes this week and the question that i get ask is

has the stout got a Full Floating Rear Axle
apparently the rk101 had both depending on the year

 

We never had the full floating axle on the the stout, Australian governments wisdom down rated even the semi floating axle versions payload from 1.75t to 1.5t, the full floating axle was in our toyoace/dyna 1964-1984 which in the stout gave a 2 tonne metric payload and with the slightly larger 750 15" tyres 2.5t than the stouts 700 15"

 

This old car stuff is quite an experience
So the answer if someone ask about floating axle is NO
& to get the appropriate shoes
Bendix brake shoes

 

40 series landcruiser ebay, as they had the same drum brakes

 

refer to below brake supplier has the following i,m a little confused still as
to what is best for my 1976 stout
The difference between the two listings is that one is for a commerical drum and drum RK101 and the other is for a full floating commericial drum and drum RK101. You can find this outlined in the description on each of the listings.
We also have a set for semi floating commercial drum and drum RK101. Please advise which variation best suits your vehicle and I will look into organising a quote for you.