Landcruiser and dual cab dyna/toyoace, earlier the better as in some countries this style rear load deck was standard on Toyota pickups anyway

 

thanks will start looking fora 1976 tray

 

would a fj45 tray fit the stout ?

 

NOOOOOOOOOOOO! dont destroy a FJ45!!!

from what I am told on other forum ih8mud.com I believe that they will not fit. Believe the FJ45 is a smidge wider and unsure on length.

(I can say the above as the FJ45 is almost as rare as the Stout in the states)

 

45's in Australia were very very common.
I have had a stout cab on a 75 series, mildura Victoria to bundaberg Queensland, back window to back window and they are the same width, something that surprised many that it caught the eye of and I can not find photos atm.
It was a story I have been told a few times by some older boys is that the rk100-rk101 had the same chassis rails and it was only how the rails were fitted out to make either a 45 or stout chassis on the same production line, which I doubt is true. The cruiser have a longer cab to accommodate the larger engine, so if the stout and 45 share wheel base there will be issues and the wheel wells and arches might need cutting and grafting to suit the stout

If you can find one of these dyna/toyoace as they are basically a cab over engine version of a stout and the stouts replacement in Australia the dyna/toyoace 1968- now http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/midland/cars-vans-utes/1981-toyota-dyna-truck/1018621529 this one is a 2.4 2l diesel

 

Here is a comment from a Facebook 40 series group that I am expanding my knowledge via in regards to a photo of my stout.

That's really cool, I have never heard of them before. Would look cool mini trucked with a 40 series style side tray

 

http://m.gumtree.com.au/v?adId=1020204982

Found a tray but sounds like this is not a good fit
From the other posts
Thoughts?

 

Seriously I wish I had it, by the sounds of things that the RK101 have the same chassis rails as 45 47 so it could bolt on.
It sounds possible that the diffs from the 40 series just bolt to the stouts springs, the holes are in the chassis rails for the cross member for the 40's transfer case and it is not rusted out like the one I ponder over for mine

Edit

It's in mildura and I was born there, only if I had the $ I would get one of my cousins to get it and store it til I could arrange to get it back here. Then reality hits and atm I am chasing up the legalities under the new national code of practice to put a turbo on my stout sole lpg, total head phuk and yet if I can I could be able to cut running costs down 30-50%.
And now an explanation, lpg propane dose not suffer pre detonation and burns more efficiently at higher compression than petroleum gasoline. So as lpg is cheaper in Australia than petrol 4psi of boost more than compensates power loss and increasing boost only makes the lpg burn more efficiently and @ 7 psi swapping out the 6.1:1 diff ratio for a 40's 4.1:1 the engine should not struggle when under load as they do without turbo, thats if the test engine can handle 10 psi of boost

 

Yeah it looks nice but mildura is a long way from perth

Keep looking I guess

 

That toyoace/dyna I posted the link above is good if you think tires rims diff 2.4 2l diesel brake parts tray and it is in western Australia, it was because my dad once had one of them that I got a stout and part of me has pondered the 2l diesel swap

 

I have near been going out of my mind looking at every possible angle to be able to do a collapsible steering column without major changes and it looks like this model dyna/toyoace have the closest thing to bolt on for engine swap under the national code of practice
The earlier model has the same as a rk101 stout

Edit

Old style same as rk101 stout



Newer style

 

mechanics 101
stout has been running like a dream for the past months went to stat her this morning, but no go

battery charged
fuel in float
sparks plugs are new
turning over

want avoid playing with things i no nothing about could make s mall problem worse

would appreciate some thoughts on where to start looking for problem

 

Remove a spark plug ground it and see if there is spark

 

ground plugs ? how?

spark plugs are about 4-6months old
could it be a coil or distributor problem

 

Ground the plug by putting against earth/any steel part and turn the key, if no spark it is normally plugs points leeds coil power supply as the standard procedure is air fuel spark. Air it sucks, if not with a spark plug removed put your thumb over the plug hole and turn key, if it has compression it should blow passed your thumb no matter how hard you try to stop it (basic mechanics here). Fuel it has it and if you turn the key with a hand over the air intake on top of the carburetor it should get wet or at least smell of fuel. Spark if it does not have any check points are opening and closing that the rotor and cap do not have build up and that the carbon tip in cente of the distributor cap touches the rotor and that the coil has power, so with a test light make contact on both sides of the coils power supply(not high tension output) and turn key the light should flash and on positive side and earth the lght should glow with ignition on

 

see rubber ball like thing its getting very hot on underside when trying to start car
as well as lead next to it that runs to battery is that the starter motor below it and could it be F*#ked

also what is the little knob on the distributer that can be turned

 

are starter motors hard to get for the stout if need be

 

Starter motors are normally interchangeable between many makes, it is normally the location of the solenoid the bit on the sides location to which side of the engine the starter mounts. When I had suzuki lj I had corolla corona gemini and Sigma starter motor all bolted in, recently I replaced the starter motor in my 1962 after buying a new battery because I could not get it to start as at first I thought the battery was stuffed and the starter motor was turning way to slow.
The adjuster on the side of the distributor after initial timing idle 800rpm @ 10ºbtc set by turning the distributor, it adjusts timing when up in the revs or under load it lessens or increases spring tension against vacuum advance and the centrifugal of the counterweights to optimal timing and control of pre detonation that elevation climate and fuel can cause, crank angle and anti knock sensors on modern efi replace such

 

The other issue now we are at this point is "the" wire, inside the distributor is an uninsulated wire that earths between the body and the internals of the distributor and as the engine revs by vacuum and counterweight the internal part moves separately to the body and "the" wire can break away from the body which can cause a break down causing the engine to misfire and carry on and if it fails to get contact altogether drives many crazy in the quest to find wtf is wrong

 

anyway to check if starter motor is rooted , before i go replacing this that & everything in between...its driving me crazy had the car for 4 or so months & have not even been around the block
time money time....

whats the purpose of the collapsible steering column with regards to your older post