The nikki carburetor has rebuild kits on ebay and I have never needed to buy anything for one and they were on many japanese engines.
myself i refuse to spend money on cars and if I can not fix something then I am going to totally fuk it learning about it and so so often solve the issue first, as before I was put on a disability pension realized that I was working to pay for my suzuki lj 4x4 obsession and just one of them I used to get to work I was spending more on it daily than myself and hence why I opted Toyota.
Personally pull what you have off, pull it apart completely and get to know it as a friend and when you know your friend seek him out and your friend becomes like wally, as the nikki carburetor has little issues and most of the time it is human error.
Over the past three years I have picked up many spare carburetors and have not spent a cent doing so, none of them have an issue and the brass needle and seat all appear the same and even on this phone today saw a couple of images on Google of nikki carburetor needle kits.

 

My 1974/62 and 1976

And spares

1977 model left and 1968 right

12R small sight glass assume around 1977- and the 1977 large sight glass version again off a rusted out dyna truck
I took these photos not so recently to show the difference between the two main style of carburetor the stouts had, both the small sight glass Asian and the large sight glass nikki have different formats such as auto choke and other vacuum options but they are all basically the same including jetting if they are off similar displacement engines

The engine in my 1974 with the 1962 body is completely made of bits, even the head gasket came with the 1974 as the previous owners son had ideas and started to play and after two years of it sitting in his yard untouched I was given it without engine

 

thanks have had a good play, seems to be fuel coming out/leaking around little screw above spring in pic next to the pin of sorts
any idea so determined to figure this out

fuel float chamber still full

 

I will be back home (bundaberg) in a few days hopefully, stuck on the sunshine coast atm until the shops have food and the bridge is open over the river to actually get home, so by the weekend I will be sorted again hopefully

 

thanks whysmee..that carburetor is a world of pain but fun ....

another quick question have come a across a stout 1900 1971 being wrecked was wondering if parts like car door/panels/fenders would fit my 1976 rk101 though it might bee worth while grabing some spare stuff

thanks

 

My 67 is made up of bit from a 64 and 76...yes all the panels will fit.. I would grab it.

 

If you can get parts for stouts or whole stouts and have the ability to store them do so, as I have had people chasing parts from me and even though the stouts were reasonably common here once, they are starting to get hard to find

 

thanks
any advice in reference to question about fuel comming form screew above spring on carby in the previous post refer to picture

cheers

 

i have been thinking of your question and i assume that you are still having issues with flooding and at that, when the fuel bowl is over full i assume it is leaking out through it's air vents into the venturi and and via the shaft of the butterfly is exiting as per flow the lowest point.
the air vents are the two angle cut tubes at the top, if the fuel bowl is over filling fuel will come out of them at either a gush or just weep pending on why the fuel bowl is flooding and how badly. the shaft of the butterflies are half round, one barrel the shaft is up the other down and so i guess when you stop the flooding issue the mystery drip should also disappear

 

Stout parts

trying to find some plastic headlight surrounds for rk101

 

went had a look at a 71 stout 1900 today got some bits & pieces door winder widow winders dash parts headlights & so-on
do not have room to store veichle but all parts are free & was wondering what would be the the best mechanical parts to grab( things that are hard to come past & useful to have spares of)
its a 5r engine

any suggestions

 

1971 is rk101 , rk100 1963-67 were 1900 3r
Grab what you can and put exras on gumtree/ebay, if it were a 1971 5r dose it not have the headlight bezels you seek, I do have a spare pair but I doubt that they are worth posting when it is possible you will find another stout locally

 

looks the same as this minus tub tray and reads toyota on front grill not toyopet has 1900 badges on front fenders & does not have the extra 1/4 windows like on my 1976...
under hood has plate with rk101 on it thought was a little confussed because i did not know rk101,s came with that front grill &1900 badges on the fenders

 

that style grille was only on 1963-64 model stouts in australia with toyota and not toyopet, the 1900 was only the RK100 and the 1500 RK40.
now as of yet i have found no official records so this is not solid fact and should not be quoted as fact.

the very first stouts in australia were private import RK45 (10?) and were near given to the importer thiess constructions as they had obtained so many landcruisers, at this point in time theiss also signed contracts for the autralian market 1962-63. within the next 12 months many toyota arrived in australia and the first of stout were not sold as such to the general public but were used within thiess contracts and demonstration models in the new thiess toyota dealerships for test drive and ordering purposes only.
it is possible that there were three RK41 3r 1900 lite stouts RHD were sent here in 1964 and they never got approval for sale, the 1963-64 RK40 R engine 1500 did get approval and so there were more of them until the upgraded RK43 2R engine 1500 that had full approval for the australian market and was painted in grey only.
the first of RK100 at first were green only and had the 3R 1900 which received clearance to be sold in late 1963 and after the 1965 launch of the RK43, RK100 sales suffered and are now hard to find post 1965.
pre 1965 lite stouts or the RK40 were sold off cheap in mid late 1964 prior to the launch of the RK43 and as time past and the demand for the stouts increase thiess started to sell off their own fleets of stouts as they naturally upgraded for newer models. it is really hard to find anything on the stout in australia as they were never a priority as the focus was first the landcruiser and then the australian made toyota tiara, all the stout did was give the australian government a reason to create ADR australian design rules and try and control the influx of cheaper better quality Japanese vehicles to protect the uncompetitive australian industry.

supposedly "a" thiess toyota dealership 1965

 

cool i love al this information will head out to the paddock where the car is next week & take some pics
will put them up for for you have a look at

 

1960's Toyota Lite Stout ute suit restore. | Wrecking | Gumtree Australia Bunbury Region - Boyup Brook Area

JUST OUT OF PERTH

 

few updates new dash/glove box ,,,removed large head board will re weld short rolled section back on...given it a little shine,,,will make a start on new interior door pannels this week thinking peg board for now

 

brake bleeding this weekend

do i need to bleed brake booster servo & where in the order of bleeding should it be done ?

i undersatnd i should work from passenger side rear, then backwards, lastly to drivers side front...
any information welcomed it has been spoken bout in previous post but would like some more detailed information

do i need to bleed clutch master cylinder how does it work?

 

anyone have some toyota manuals for gears diff so-on so forth,,,for 1976 stout

spent about 3 hours trying to find reverse, sending me mad

any help much appreciated

 

If same as '67 mine here goes.

Best way to describe is take a 4spd on the floor pattern, rotate 90 degrees to the left.

1st is back towards driver and up
2nd is back and down
3rd is forward and up
4th is down from 3rd
Reverse is from neutral- forward all the way and down. (Behind 4th)