SWAP?
motor is a dream rattles a little,,,new exhaust & muffler needed

 

any ideas for a weld body tray i can put on the back of stout if one cannot be sourced through wreckers

 

The easiest option is an alloy tray, easy to find, easy to fit and the only downfall is the increased ability of ease of rear wheel spin.
The original rear body/load deck are near impossible to find in Australia because they cost more to have fitted than a steel timber tray as they were only imported in cab chassis format, although if you can find a factory land cruiser unit they should fit with some tweaking

 

Sorry no hijack intended. Got a '67 coming to live with me, was planning on 3rz swap but will see how the motor does before I make that decision...

 

Check your PMs

 

would an original 62 stout weld body/rear body tray fit a 76 stout rk101...

 

Possibly not without modifications, because pre 1965 the cabin was two inches shorter and when this happened the lite stouts wheel base was extended and the RK40 became RK43 combined with an engine upgrade, so there is a very good possibility that a two inch 50mm section would need to be cut out of it as on the export RK100 and it's successor RK101 all that was done is the riveted mounts for the body on the chassis were moved and a redesigned shorter rear body/load deck was fitted. If you use Google use Google translate and Google Toyota stout images in Japanese just for an extra eye opener, as there were many wheel base options and the extended cabin was only export models RK41, RK43, RK100 and RK101

 

do i use brake fluid for both clutch & brake mastrer cylinders...& what type the good stuff

eg dot 3/dot 4

 

Yes, it is brake and clutch fluid and power steering/automatic transmission fluid is also one and the same, which is another common question

 

Brake and clutch fluid is hygroscopic and some replace it annually to prevent rust formations that cause cylinder pitting and the pistons becoming seized.
Myself I use gulf western products, they are cheap and I have never had issues with any of them

 

thanks , new problem stout has been starting regularly once/twice a week...turn it over this morning let it run 10 minutes or so gave it a rev or two turn it off,,, now i cant get stout to start again

fuel float level was extremely high perhaps flooded , should i just let it sit awhile ,,, how long?

any help

 

got it going again but fuel float chamber/glass window is fool to the brim
how to i get it back down to white level line on glass window

 

Do not remove the glass.
It will be that the needle is not shutting off and it is located within the brass fitting where the fuel line joins the carb.
Diagrams are easy to find online for the nikki carbs but the needle will be sticking open because of the smallest bit of 5hit that you will struggle to see and most not knowing will cause more problems.
Sometimes it is as easy and so often the small particle will pass with use, sometimes if you drain the carbs fuel bowl and then try and start it again the bit of grit with the initial flow of fuel will dislodge it and sometimes you need to remove the needle.
To remove the needle remove the fuel line first and then remove the brass fitting and the needle should just be sitting there and by this stage the bit of 5hit that has caused the needle to stick open is gone and at worse case scenario the needle tip is worn and should be replaced and they are I think a standard thing

 

oops window already taken off,,,window back on, needle out and cleaned does not look worn
started it up & carby fills up to brim again, ,,

any other solutions

 

Is the float floating

 

yep but fuel level right at top....oh carb fuel bowl where and how

 

It can only be the needle not shutting off as I doubt that where the needle sits on the float has bent.
Needles not shutting off is near on the only cause of the fuel bowl flooding, unlike some carburetor that were fitted on so many Australian made cars the float level should not need adjusting and this is why I stated that so many playing with them unknowingly do more damage than good because the brass on the float is a lot thicker than Strombergs and the likes and dose not bend as easy, caused by such as on rough roads.
Have a play with the needle and seat and make sure it is shutting off and this can be done by mouth and blowing down the fuel entry point and the float and why at first I said not to touch the glass is they are prone to leak when the gasket is old and hardened.

 

every time i go to put needle back on slips of contact spot on flot falls into glass chamber

 

I am not home atm down in broken hill and only on my phone.
Many have a Jesus clip that holds the needle in place, I know them as Jesus clips because so often they go ka ping soon followed by a Jesus where the fuk did that go, the clip that holds the window winder handle on is another.
It is long enough that I can not picture in my mind exactly how the needle setup is and can on suggest to Google the nikki carburetor

 

okay have play with carby for two days straight ,,,NO LUCK, what would be my options for new carby
Alternatively i could by a new carby from here toyota 5r

any thoughts

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