It is a sticker on the dash, I have only ever seen it on 1961-62 RK45 in Australia as the four speed column shift the stout were the first to have it in Australia as everything else only had and were known as three on the tree

edit
it took me ages to find this and is referred to as a reverse pattern

 

PARTS///

trying to get my hands on a new/used air vent for dash 1976 stout
...got the stout running
will get some one to gut out all the rust in the coming months and get engine tuned by professional

 

thanks for shifting pattern

 

which air vet are you looking for?? Photo ??

 

try Matt Jordan his profile name is rxtoy http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/members/rxtoy/ he had a couple of parts stouts near Perth as well as a 1976 back in new Zealand, his 1976 is very nice but not legal in Australia http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/in...ere-bagged-76-stout-project-new-zealand-3764/
and is this the air vent

 

yes that is the one i am after

 

is this what other stout outside /in front of dash look like why would some one silicon up front centre panel

 

my original 1974 had the same kind of thing done and part of the issue is that the metal that can not be seen could not be painted and as the air vent when the original foam rubber seal hardens and brakes that once sealed where the silicone is, it allows water in on metal that only ever was primed before being spot welded together. the stouts without a roof lining over night the roof condensates and the condensation runs down the door pillars down to the door sills, although some runs down into the area such as where that has been plated and rusts inside mainly mixed with years of dust makes perfect conditions for rust. the air vent that has now silicone keeping it closed behind it if water makes it through it it basically has nowhere to drain and so eventually wet feet, or seal the vent.

the photos are of my 1974 it was used to cart sugarcane bales of mulch, so dry dusty superphosphate and then the wet season rains


the second photo is of the inside of the air vent and a small rust hole can be seen

 

thanks how hard would it be to find propriety seal for vent so it could be re-opened agin as it would have originally been
have got someone coming around to look at cutting rust out tomorrow and my dash suffer the same fate as your picture 1 hope it can be fixed

 

The seal is not a issue for me but preventing future rust is, I brought a cheap as air brush and use kill rust quit rust paint mixed with equal portion of fish oil with mineral turps to thin it out. The air bush is very effective for getting into places nothing else can, it was only a couple of bucks more to get the base paint tinted the same color green and far cheaper than spray cans. I am no expert, I am 34 and have been on a disability pension for 11 years and the RK101 stouts are about being extremely cheap, easy to get parts for, very basic and were sold new with a garentee that the engines could do 300, 000 miles 500, 000 km before needing major service and so a little bit of rust is nothing. My 76 has no rust at all yet my 62 on the 74 has, when I started on the 74 62 was after thinking of what I could afford and what I knew could last me another 30-50 years and then the 76 came up and I swapped my 83 750 Suzuki motor bike for it

 

so i have started taking of bolts to remove side fenders & front fender / grill , all bolts removed but its not going anywhere notice back silicon...between front front fender/grill
should i be giving it a good smack with rubber mallet or get screw driver between rubber/silicon and
wedge them apart ...nervous i might damage something

what is the best way to remove exterior panels...

 

Best to remove the front nose panel first just leaving the radiator mounting panel, the side guards/fenders once the bottom section nearest the cab pops out closest the bottom front of the doors work at separating the section near the headlights from the radiator support and after that the panel should want to start to tilt out at the bottom. To actually remove the fenders, move them forward slightly so the back of the headlights clear the radiator support panel and lift up, moving the fenders forward slightly first will also allow the air ducts to come apart without the need to unbolt them first

 

thanks will give that a crack
did not have any luck with dash vent if you here of anyone wrecking or come across vent let me know

thanks

 

was just reading some forums about appropriate oil for older style engines...is there a particular oil i should be putting in the stout

 

A multi grade 20w 40 is standard, my old dyna stated a 10- 20 for temperatures up to 30ºC and 5 10w sae for 10º either Side of freezing. The 5R do not suffer from carbon or sludge buildup as certain newer engines do so synthetic oils are not needed and as they are low revving and a full cast iron engine they do not wear much to warrant an old engine style oil, so just a brand of your choice in a multi grade 20w 40 as most of Australia dose not see prolonged periods below freezing but rather 20-30ºC and the multi grade sae 20w 40 covers that +- another 10ºC

 

just had a small barny with a mate about fuel for the stout 1976 rk101
he is convinced its unleaded no lead replacement needed
i beg to differ please clarify before i wreck engine

thanks

 

There has never been lead in fuel in Japan and many Toyota engines had factory LPG as an option and were low compression around 8:1 combined with idle jet cutoff only standard and even crappier fuel can be used without issue, it is only water and foreign material within the fuel that could cause issues

 

so i do not need to added the lead additive ?

 

Many engines were basically crap compared to Toyota engines and had poor quality valves and valve stem seals, higher compression around 9:1 and single barrel carburetor that were unable to offer a more precise fuel mixture.
Lead in fuel helped to slow valve wear and prevent pre detonation/ pinging in cast iron headed engines as well as run on or dieseling.
Stellite valves and valve seats were fitted into many older engines as a sports upgrade or for lpg use as they do not need lubrication (lead) and valves and seats in all Toyota had such or simular quality items standard and this is why Toyota earned such a good reputation and could grantee such as the 5R engine for 500, 000km in the stouts unlike certain iconic locally made items.

No you do not need anything, these engines are made extremely well out off extremely good material and require very little maintenance and were built stout to be used and abused for many years without anything being done to them and that is exactly how most were treated

 

I'm excited to see how the motor does.. I may like it enough to not do a swap! I appreciate all your useful Info whysmee!