Thanks for all the help
Much appreciated will get on to scanning 5r repair manual this week/weekend for you
And undoubtedly have more questions about the stout after the weekend hopefully will keep it running this time

 

Thinking of getting rid of purge tank/coal canister if so
Can I remove hoses back to tank or should I just block them up

 

all i can say is be mind full that part of the function of the purge tank coal canister is to retain pressure within the fuel tank to assist the fuel pump on start up. it releases excess pressure that builds up such as on hot days and releases it after passing through the coal filter into the air intake not just for emission but as safety as well. when the engine is running the small vacuum hose to the carby allows a free air flow and any vapor that is produced or vacuum in the tank is vented safely within the air filter so no dust or rust (moisture) can enter the fuel tank within the expansion and contraction process.

i started to play with a front disc brake conversion today and the landcruiser hilux discs are not as easy as they have been made out so i have been looking online at the newer fj cruiser and hiace van discs and that option looks better, will post a photo if i get a dummy disc but this is the idea on the stouts front hubs http://www.toyota.com.au/static/images/15q20-fj-cruiser-front-brake-940x529.jpg

 

ignition coil need for 1976 stout
whats best

 

just flick repair manual to your nominated email

thanks

any ideas
ignition coil need for 1976 stout
whats best

 

personally i have never needed to replace a coil, although on my 1969 toyota dyna (5R) a small wire inside the distributor on the points was broken at the clip that would be at times very frustrating, breaking down and not having spark and other times being perfectly fine until i eventually found it.
when i first saw this thread and your photos i looked at your timing order and the thought crossed my mind on why was the distributor facing the direction it is unless it has been out for some reason and has been fitted back in incorrectly section 10 distributor installation
if you follow those instructions the distributor should face the direction mine dose and if i remember correctly the early K block corolla and 18R are the same, the distributor appears to be out making me think someone has played with it for some reason.

edit
after looking at your 1978 version of the 5R manual i will upload section 10 the ignition of my 1968 version as it has far more detail, i will put it on via flickr link as i am not real computer talented

 

timing
this is of early 5R and 3R with timing gears and the cam rotation is opposite to timing chain, timing gears firing order is 1-2-4-3 and timing chain versions are 1-3-4-2
otherwise bottom left page 11 and top right page 12
page 11 ignition system 1968 3R and 5R engine manual | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
page 12 ignition system 1968 3R and 5R engine manual | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

thanks again for the pdf of the later 1978 5R manual

 

Okay following picture of fuel pick up completely block
So no start car
Clean and good to go…car starts runs while foot is on pedal but upon relase off clutch & in neutral it stalls and I cannot start car again

Is this flooded?
Any ideas of what to play with next to keep car running whilst in neutral and foot off pedal

 

should little pipe coming from radiator cap be attached to something?
eveytime car heats up all the fluid come shooting out
how full should radiator be?

 

If the Brakes on a Full Stout are the same as 40 and 45 series land cruisers
What are the Brakes on the lite stouts based on?
If it is the Hilux what models?

 

the small pipe from the radiator was just pressure vent 0.5kg 7psi via the cap that in newer cars has a bottle but older ones it just dumped to the ground, with the radiator cap off is it blowing bubbles as it sounds like it could have a blown head gasket.
it will not idle if the idle solenoid is not connected nor if coolant is getting into the cylinders, the idle solenoid is the small wire with the round bullet joiner that starts off from the wiring loom as white with a black stripe
if it dose have a blown head gasket it will also can obtain issues that will prevent it from running correctly pending where it is blown and which cylinders are leaking, to remove the radiator cap as well will prevent extra pressure and should slow the amount of coolant that leaks into the cylinders when the engine stops.

@subscan
the first generation of the hilux was not built or designed by toyota, it was going to be the next generation of the hino briska.
as hino and toyota were neighbors, mid to late sixties toyota acquired hino and due to the complaints about the stout in the US toyota had hino fit toyotas own engines and transmissions in the renamed hino and as the hino briska was originally six stud/lug wheels with 700 14 inch tyres, i am unsure if the the diff brakes and so on are of toyota design or hino. there was someone on the facebook group that recently posted comments about a hilux diff swap and just waiting on an update https://www.facebook.com/groups/58645012372/

 

Stout purring like a kitten ,,,well grumbling like an old cat

1 Is it worth while throwing in any of that Nulon engine flush stuff the next time i fill up do they do anything will it help clean out any crap any recommendations
2 Next on the list bleeding brakes anyone have a visual reference for how to do this & in what order back/front /master cylinder Is it the kind of think that can be done in day
3 how much oil should i be putting in dip stick has no level markers
Change oil yesterday and put a full 4.5 litres in too much or too little

 

Yea u can use those engine flush things more for maybe it helps maybe it doesn't type thing just something to do as far as oil I'd start around 4 1/2 quarts that would be a safe level

And brakes always start with the brake caliper/drum farthest from the master cylinder passenger rear then move in that order .dont let your master cylinder run dry keep it topped of while doing this its usually a two man job

 

my 5R dip stick has 4.5L as F and the 5R manual states 4.5 and 4.8 with oil filter.
before the nulon products could be sold in australia they had to go through testing for australian standards, which was done by my uncle in the engineering company he worked for. the products must do what they say or better, but some are just putting a band aid on something that might need stitches.
to bleed the brakes dose not take long and can be done within an hour, it is the adjusting of the brakes that takes time and i did a rough explanation earlier, oh and the rear brakes are two double acting cylinders unlike what i stated earlier with only one bleeder between them unlike the front where both wheel cylinders have bleeders.



it is far easier to make sure all your adjusters move freely before even attempting to bleed the brakes

 

Any information on the felt channel that hold windscreen in place
Are these difficult to find? & any particular size
What’s the best to stop water running into door from widow? All the picture of stout i have seen none of seem to have any window seals

might be time to call in an expert

 

the felt so often just slips down in the door when the glue perishes yet i think are standard toyota of the era. the rubber window seal i obtained mine from rare spares as a universal with an old one in hand, make sure in the bottom of the door all the dirt/dust and crap is out and water flows out of the drains nicely as that is why the doors rust.

photo of the universal window seal


and one for those in the US only RK40 1962-64, RK41 1963-67, RK43 1965-1971 had coils springs
RK45 1960-64, RK100 1963-67 RK47 1965-67 RK101 1968-78 and the later hilux style RK110, RK111 and YK110 were all leaf front suspension

 

thanks if your ever in west aust come work on my car hahaha
thanks for all this info going to be a long process but its all helping

 

okay ...perhaps im a little retarded but i can seem to find reverse on this thing
in and up or in and down side to side
frickin column shift

 

on my 1974 when i first obtained that i could not find reverse and it was not until i removed the rusted cab to fit the 1962 did i stumble across that the linkage was out of adjustment, it only took a couple of turns and all is good, the early hiace vans had the same issue when the linkage bushes were worn.

here is the shift instructions off my 1962

 

If possible could you scan and email to me