much help...
not on face book as yet, may endeavor to do so

Nikki Carburetor... would this have anti dieseling solenoids
fuel pump kyosan denki... think this is working will replace fuel filter and try your choke trick

 

the large sight glass version is prone to leaking, it also is known to have needle and seat issues and so in the past many fked with them and caused them to leak, or caused the so called many problems.
as a fail safe i would drain the fuel tank, disconnect the fuel line on the suction side of the fuel pump and air compress back to the tank, yet first i would as i so love the taste of petrol see if i can suck on the fuel hose near the fuel filter and see what i get, fuel air or nothing. there is a section to the rear of the cab on the right side that the steel fuel line has a rubber hose section, if it is cracked the fuel pump can not pump air, so replace that bit of hose if need be.
now the fuel pump itself is lower than a full tank of fuel and therefore if the engine is turned over the valves in the pump let the air out and (sometimes it dribbles out if the pressure side hose is off and lower) thus the system dose not need priming. if the fuel filter is not broken (a new one would be wiser) fuel should come out the pump under pressure when the key is turned.
many f-ed with the needle and seat and the float level due to fuel starvation and that causes the large sight glass to leak. now if there is no air leak in the fuel line (the rubber hose to the rear right of the cabin in the chassis) that allows the fuel to drain back to the tank as a syphon/siphon and so has no visual leak, it leaves only the pressure side of the fuel pump to the carby. i have never seen one of those ryco plastic fuel filters blocked, so if the pump is pumping it leaves only the fine mesh filter in the brass fitting on top of the carby (if it still has one) that also contains the needle and seat, yet i doubt and the last thing you should need to do is remove the three screws that hold the sight glass in place as before then if you do not have fuel go an electric fuel pump or re ask

 

geeez... sounds like i need you to come to my place for the day....haha
thanks for all the info

i wlll get there in the end

 

not sure if this would be of interest to the Facebook group. will endeavour to scan the pages in the next week
and put into pdf

 

what year is the 5R manual? as i have a april 1968 version that is of the earliest version of the 5R and 3R which was basically a larger 3R. the 1968 5R was a square inlet and exhaust port with timing gears, 1969 was same with round ports and 1970 introduced timing chain and the timing chain version is the most common version and that info on the timing chain version would be appreciated

 

1974 & 1978 published
appears quite comprehensive

headings as follows

GENERAL
ENGINE TUNE UP
ENGINE
INTAKE & EXAUST
FUEL SYSTEM
LUBRICATING SYSTEM
COOLING SYSTEM
STARTING SYSTEM
IGNITION SYSTEM
CHARGING SYSTEM
SST & SERVICE SPECIFICATIONS....

SUB HEADINGS
GENERAL
ENGINE OIL
COOLANT
FAN BELT
AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
BATTERY
SPARK PLUGS
DISTRIBUTOR
HIGT TENSION CORD
DWELL ANGLE
IGNITION TIMING
VALVE CLEARANCE
CARBURETOR
COMPRESSION PRESSURE

 

lots of pictures

 

are you able to do one of those pdf things (i don't) or put it on flickr or something like that, as i thought about such with mine so it could be shared with others as it dose not have anything about copy right

 

sure will give it ago

just change all fuel lines in engine bay new fuel filter re-connected purge tank / / coal canister
mesh in little brass thing seemed clean & clear
appears no fuel is making it to the new fuel filter (not filling up whilst trying to turn over) i guess i will replace all the hoses from the engine bay back left and right and give it a crack later

im guessing fuel passes thought fuel filter before hitting fuel pump then onto carby

im sure this is car mechanics 101

 

ok so your brakes are the same as 40 and 45 series land cruiser, that is brake shoes, wheel cylinders and master cylinder, to rebuild cylinders the rubbers brought as single items per size is the cheapest way rather than over priced kits (i brought all the rubbers for all four wheels cheaper than one wheel cylinder kit of which there are two per wheel, total cost of mine $54). in the engine bay up front is the big brake servo/booster it has two larger style bleeders on it that have to be bleed as well in conjunction with the wheel cylinders, the last thing you need to do is buy new wheel cylinders as they are around the $250 mark each X 8 or two per wheel.
disc brakes can be made fit on the front wheels either landcruiser or hilux yet a backing plate to mount the calipers on would need to be made (not legal in most of australia). after researching the stouts original style brakes they have actually better braking ability than the disc brakes that can be easily made to replaced them such as the land cruisers style, the only advantage of the later 60 and 70 series cruiser brakes are they are auto adjusting. in queensland to do an engine upgrade you need to do a brake upgrade and the stopping ability of the double acting twin wheel cylinders up front and the twin single acting down back are as good as it gets. to change away from the 5R engine and the gearbox/transmission there is the hand/park/E brake drum that is on the back of the gearbox/transmission and so 60 70 series cruiser have the hand brake on the rear wheels and are a bolt on swap, yet the auto adjusting cruisers are only a single acting single wheel cylinder and do not have the breaking ability in any form of the factory stouts setup. yet again in queensland if we change the engine size increasing more than 10% we need to do a brake upgrade that has to be either a factory option or a certified pre approved setup that the stouts do not have and then there is a static brake test a must stop from a certain speed in a certain distance of which the cruisers with front discs of that era fail.
when it comes to suspension the 60 series landcruiser and 4x4 hilux have the same spring length eye to eye, so it is much easier to go up than it is to go down
oh and a landcruiser 4.1:1 diff centre is a clean swap for the "full" stouts 6.1:1, so thats info if V8 auto, diff lock, lift kit and big tires like i ponder on my 1962 RK45 which is not legal in f r k n queensland

 

when i was a teenager one of my favorite items i would use when i would get a new toy aka old bomb was fit one of those squeeze fuel pumps from an outboard fuel tank in line. it made things so much easier just to slip it in and give it a few pumps and see fuel be where you want it to be quickly. to not have a licence, be in an unregistered car and run out of fuel, a few pumps after getting some fuel and away we would go again. as i grew up in the pine trees of south east south australia and at times we "mates" could be a hundred k's from home pretending we were rally drivers having a blast, i had so many cars...

 

how do i know if wheel cylinders are okay/have life left in them
car has only done 81,000km of which it seem some was serviced regularly (have the old service book)
$250x8 is alot of bickies
i guess thats the money pit of all cars

where is the best place to bye rubbers?
where is the bet place to wheel cylinders?
oops your in QS

 

general rule of thumb, if the brake wheel cylinders have no visual signs they are leaking do not touch them, make sure none of your brake adjusters are ceased or even tight to turn, or the pistons stuck in place (where the brake shoe slips into should all freely move) and get to know which way they adjust in and out.
the original wheel cylinders are made of decent material and on my 1974 some of them were rusted solid, so once i managed to get the pistons out i just sanded everything well, put new rubbers in, put grease on the threads of the adjusters. to adjust the brakes, evenly adjust both front and rear adjusters on the rear wheels at first (practice) so that the wheel is unable to turn and then loosen off and then alternate between front and back adjusters on one wheel so that with around one adjuster tighten loosen motion the brake should lock up and be free enough to turn, leaving both adjusters in the final stage that the wheel can turn yet has slight drag from both brake shoes. attempt the front brakes when you feel ready, be mindful that the brake master cylinder has a smaller capacity than all the wheel cylinders so it is important that to have a good brake pedal all the brakes need to be adjusted to have minimum travel so the brake peddle dose not need to be pumped. with bleeding i always do that by myself, i pump the brake peddle up and put a pair of pliers in where the brake light trigger switch is on the peddle. i start with the back bleeders, one a side and let the air out, re tighten check fluid level, remove pliers repump replace pliers to keep the peddle down and under pressure and do the other rear wheel. the front has two bleeders per wheel same process, then i repeat same process on all four wheels again and last of all i do the two on the brake booster servo and if there is not a full brake peddle by then i move the car "a drive" use what brakes i do have and then re check and adjust brake shoes and that normally has that sorted.

now with the wheel cylinder rubbers i found to go to a place that just fix brakes and clutches have all rubbers in boxes in shelves in there parts department.
i would not even think of buying wheel cylinders, but they can be found on ebay under stout and 40-45 series landcruiser

i think the rubbers cost around $1
Slave Cylinder Toyota Coaster RU18/19 6/69-1/72, Dyna RU 10/12/15, Stout Toyoace | eBay
the front and back brake shoes are the same remember 40-45 series l/cruiser, i think i payed around $80 for all four wheels from the local brake and clutch
Toyota Stout Rear Brake Shoes RK101 1974-79 f/floataxle | eBay
as i said about $1.30 locally
Toyota Stout 1964/71 clutch slave cylinder kit new old stock (aftermarket) | eBay
and the wheel cylinders have come down in price and front and back are different
Wheel Cylinder Toyota Stout Litestout RK 100 101 110 | eBay
Wheel Cylinder Toyota Stout Litestout RK 100 101 110 | eBay

 

all day at it...still no frickin love still putts away with some carby cleaner down it...fuel float level still not filling up, all hose's changed & fuel pump taken apart cleaned put back together( not sure if working or not)
seems like there is alot of hoses o tank ....one that is screwed to/goes into tank can be unscrewed and pulled out
should this be clear all the way through, put thin piece of wire down but only got a third of the way
seem like some thing prevents it from going further

oh and the thing with electric attached to it

 

oh am i better to get electric fuel pump or replace old one with the same

 

the only fuel line that matters is the steel one, the others allow air out of the tank so it dose not get an air lock and that way the tank can be filled to the very top with fuel, venting through the hose on the filler neck when the cap is off.
that black plastic joiner is the highest point to let air out and in and is connected only to the purge/coal canister up front "breather", the wire is for the fuel gauge.
if you have an air compressor i would undo the steel fuel line at the tank and blow air down in the tank and back along the fuel line in the direction of the fuel pump or from the pump back to the tank, remember if there is any form of air leak between the tank and the fuel pump, the pump can not pump air (certain electric ones can).
i hope you found that piece of rubber hose in the steel fuel line, it is under the rear of the cab on the drivers side "right side" photo

the second photo is why a RK101 is hard to lower in the front, it is the spring to the sway bar bracket has less than 2 inches clearance roughly 40mm, so it is easier to go up six inches or more with either standard or lifted hilux 4x4 or 60 series cruiser front springs

 

yeah found that hose...and replaced... how would i know if fuel pump id dead

 

the fuel pump are very basic and i would imagine it would be a standard feature on many toyota engines of the era, personally i have never had an issue with a fuel pump on any of the toyota i have owned. when i was younger i had suzuki lj80 and on the f8a engines the diaphragm would split and that would then pump all the fuel into the engine oil until it would start to come out the oil fill cap or pcv, from when that happened i put one of these on instead.
2.5
in my engine manual in section five is the fuel pump, all it takes is a bit of 5hit under one of the valves so it dose not seat properly and it can not pump. if the pump is removed you should be able to blow through it one way but not the other. this is where one of these are good if you have one to put in the fuel line as they pump air and make getting fuel through the fuel line trough the engines fuel pump and up into the fuel bowl easy.
Outboard Reinforced Fuel Line Hose Any Motor Fuel Tank | eBay

 

(the only fuel line that matters is the steel one)
that fuel line goes into/screws to tank has an extended steel tube that lowers into tank should this be completely hollow tried putting thin piece of wire down it but gets stuck
Think that may be where blockage occurs
Will have to remove tank to get that fuel line out of the tank it hits the tray above whist trying to pull out
Someone’s stupid design
Or can i replace steel tube with some rubber hose or something

 

i would remove the fuel tank as they are prone to rust where dirt and stones jam between the tank and the chassis, on my 74 after cleaning it to paint i found some pin holes there that i used that blue and white putty stuff that comes in a flat strip to plug them.
i have never actually played with that part of the fuel pickup inside the tank so i will not state what to do there, but one would think if you take the fuel tank off and and sucked on the fuel pickup on the tank that you should get air or fuel, if not i would take to it with an air compressor.