I am fascinated and confused by this thread. I think all the US guys are lol. Combination of lingo and being unfamiliar with stouts. Good luck buddy. Keep up the good work.
ha thats funny I'm confused to & its my stout & i nothing about it or cars in general, but its good fun, keep posting... this is going to be a long long thread many years to go (mate yeah under coolabah tree)
o....got some pieces gold zinc plated thinking of doing hood & engine bay made a liitle room removed bendix hydrovac would like to find somewhere else for battery (not in engine bay ) any suggestions
Joysus I have the donk outta mine, love the fact that the gearbox can be removed from within the cab via the removable tunnel, did not like the fact I had to remove the bonnet off it to get the donk out and I am so glad it has the six wheel studs and a diff the same as a cruiser. Anyway as as I have not seen a firearm in years and petrol is getting expensive I am glad my oldest daughter is here and I can teach her the difference between a ute and a truck, it saddens me much to need to pull the donk apart as if I put citronella in the oil I doubt I would ever see another mozzie again, but time is short and soon she will return to her mum. Oh such is life...
good to see your back online thought my mechanic had left town... car is coming along well ...thought there is a strong fuel smell (no leaks) wondering if its burning to much fuel & how to rectify problem ...
I can not think of why you could smell fuel, one of the downfalls of cast iron cylinder heads is that it retains heat moreso than alloy and so under modern emission laws cast iron cylinder heads are a thing of the past except in diesels as a cast iron cylinder head require a richer fuel to air ratio than alloy heads to reduce combustion temperature.
Bugger these rust repair guys... Going to give a go myself Any idea what gauge Steel I should use for Repairs/welding... It's going to be rough but at least I did It myself
I was once informed to just get a panel off a old bomb aka a freebie that already has similar curves to what you are trying to fix
Couple little holes in the roof & door where rubber seals go... & some lager work needed where door jamb meets floor pan
whysmee...going to try get reverse again with a mate to lend a hand if your get a chance can you point to the bits & pieces we should be pushing & pulling on in engine bay/shifters so we know exactly where to go fingers crossed cheers
If what I have my hand on can not move to it's end of travel forward reverse can not be selected On the column the arm that moves forwards and backwards if is maxed out in travel before reverse can be fully selected on the gearbox is the issue and it is as easy as loosening the ends on the connecting rod and shorten it's overall length by a twist or two pending
I'm guessing you loosen bolt near the Bosch label in picture & twist back towards firewall ? Will let you know how I go Thanks
If you peel back the rubber boot slightly there is the ability to put a 10mm spanner and a 12mm the other side, remove the hiem joint and release the lock nut on the connecting rod and twist the heim joint two turns to shorten the connecting rods length and reinstall
Sh*t... rubber boot split & fell of will that be a problem Is there after market rubber boots if needed
The rubber boot is not that much of an issue, most fell off years ago anyway Edit If you would like to try and fix it, clean it preferably without petrol or solvents and use the cheap and nasty $2 super glue that comes in the five pack from the cheap shops as thats all the local rare spares dude used on everything