Been rainy and cold with no garage so no progress. I’m toying with the idea of converting from drums to rotors. Has anyone done this conversion?

 

You're one of the only active members here with a Stout, so you're likely to not get much fresh feedback on that question. I have seen a few references here on TM about doing the disc conversion on Stouts, they used Hilux parts I believe. If this was my truck I'd for sure do the disc conversion at least up front.

 

Ive read about the swap being done a few times. I highly recommend it.

 

Drums are pretty solid. Last alot longer and better stopping because surface area. The only worry is warping after long braking.

 

I though it was the opposite. They don’t stop as well.

 

Oh no. The rear is different. How the shoes are set up in the typical fashion the braking is amplify as soon as the shoe hits the drum. It's like I wedging action or something. Alot of drag racers keep there drums.

And think about this. Do you see many big rigs with disk?

 

Shawny is right. Drum brakes are vastly inferior to disks. The effect you are talking about is "self-energizing brakes". This was a band-aid solution to increase braking force before power brakes were invented. Another band-aid was using finned aluminum drums with iron liners, such as on Datsun 240Z to help cooling.

IIRC, drag racers use drums most likely because there is no drag. In a properly adjusted disc brake system, the pads are always dragging on the disk to wipe off gunk and water to keep it clean. In a drum system, the shoes are adjusted so there is no contact until you press the brake pedal. Drag racers don't rely on brakes to stop. They have chutes and only need brakes at the very end when they're just plodding along.

I'm guessing big rigs get by with drums for the same reason. While drum brakes are good enough in normal traffic, those long steep downhills will cause fade which is why they use engine braking or their "Jake brakes". Just a side note Jake brakes are prohibited in a lot of populated areas because of the noise.

And finally, two personal anecdotes:
1. When I was looking at a 1979 Celica (to buy in 1979), my dad was against it because he "had heard" Toyotas had lousy brakes. I asked the salesman, and he laughed, and said, "oh, he's talking about Toyotas from the 60s".
2. My second anecdote was more frightening. I was driving my dad's 1964 Oldsmobile Delta 88 (with four-wheel drums) to school on the freeway one day. I was doing about 70 when some old lady cut in front if me doing 55. I jumped on the brakes and at first started slowing down. Suddenly, the brake pedal became rock hard and the car started just coasting. I was standing so hard on the pedal that my butt came off the seat. This is the problem with drums, brake fade. Because the shoes are fully enclosed, the gasses from the overheated brakes had nowhere to go and so created basically an "air bearing" between the shoe and drum. Kind of like an air hockey table. This is not that big of a problem on the rear which is why cars only recently have come with four-wheel discs (plus the marketing advantage). But if you're going to do any aggressive driving, I suggest you consider converting your fronts to discs.

Sorry for the long post...

 

Drum brakes require less fluid pressure to operate as well.

Drums just flat out work but if you want improved braking gotta get some discs

 

I probably live in the worst place for drums and it's not bad. For about 200 you can get everything for the front. Master cylinder, wheel cylinders, hardware, shoes, lines, consumables, and even brembo drums (part number 21043) I think for the same price you could get just about everything you need for the conversion minus rotors and pads unless you're thrifty. Depending on your wants and need they can get up there. Anything will make a difference tho. I'm guessing it's all the og stock parts like mine. Probably the case for most vehicles with drums.

I want to point out there is alot of technique in driving both drums or disc without ABS. Opposite effects.

Heres my story. Just got my permit and the boss throws me in some rigs right away. He let's me know postman the old USPS truck has drums and I need to feather them or I'll warp them or experience fade. It goes without incident. I then get put in the ford van and he let's me know the abs is out. I'm cruising and I start to go a little to fast and am coming up on a car. I start to press the brake to correct my speed and then lock them up. So far the most frightening thing I've done in a vehicle. I told this guy I was thinking about the conversion. He said you dont want to do that you dont have abs. I was quickly reminded of that incident.

 

No ABS and a faulty ABS system im sure are completey different.

Been driving my truck hard for the last 2 years with the discs up front and ive had to make some panic stops and have yet to lock them up.

now on one of my previous trucks i had the master cylinder go out on me, barely tapping the brakes and the fronts lock up. Thats some scary shit.


Just switch to discs and enjoy the truck, you wont be dissapointed

 

if you go for the disc brake conversion, you will have to fit a brake booster and different master cylinder. Discs require higher fluid pressure. I'm, not 100% sure but I think the booster, master cylinder, stub axles, rotors and callipers off a 78 Hilux fit. you might need the brake hoses as well.
Have a read through this thread before you start.
https://toyotaminis.com/forum/threads/stout-disc-conversion.12205/

 

I pulled the master and booster off a 83 pickup and it fit directly in place of what was in my 72(with a bit of trimming to the pinch weld.) Maybe the same will work in your truck.

 

Been running motor a bit, but no progress. Work just continues to suck up all my time.

Here is a shot of the interior as I realized I never posted it before.

 

wow that is a great looking interior