no problem!

 

hey if you check out the cando specialties myspace there is an album with a ton of pictures body dropping a 94 toyota reg cab.

 

Hey man, that's why we're all here!! And I promise I'll get you those pics of the radiator hose, I start a 3 day weekend after work today and then it's allllll minitrucks. I'll take some pics of how it is now and see if I have any from before...by the way, body drop is going well man!! FYI, and I'm sure you know, make sure you clear out all that left over fuzz from the carpet when you start welding it up....just a smidgin flammable....I found out the fun way..LOL

 

That is an awesome collection of pics! I have seen a couple of the minitruckin mags with that truck build but the myspace has a ton of stuff. Too bad they aren't categorized or something. There are almost 1000 pics just in the first two albums for that truck. Kinda hard to dig through, but I will later on when I have more time. Thanks for the tip!

I finally got to do some actual welding on my truck!

I just need to weld the other side up. It is all tacked in place. Then I think I am ready to drop the body. I left a few inches of floor at the front and back corners of the cab to hold it until I was actually ready to drop it. I was wondering about moving the cab back a 1/4" or so. Is there enough slop in the body mounts? After raising the engine up 1.5" it's pretty close to the firewall, and I still need to drop the body 2.25" so if I could squeeze a quarter inch of clearance by moving the cab back a little it would be nice.

 

I plated the frame on both sides and realized I had to open up the firewall openings on the floor to clear the exhaust and clutch linkage. Anyway I cut those bigger.

Now about the only thing stopping me from dropping the body is this little pinchweld seam.

I wonder how people usually deal with it? I am guessing flatten it down agaisnt the firewall? I pulled those brake lines out of the way. They were right behind the engine. I will have to move them up once I flatten out that seam. Also I am still wondering about moving the cab back slightly or if that wont work maybe I should reshape my firewall a little bit. Try to pull it into the cab an inch or so? Any advice?

 

fish plates look great! good job man!

 

i think you could get away with a 1/4".

 

Thanks! I like this part of the job a lot better than the cutting of the cab. I'll be moving on to the front of the frame soon. So what about that pinchweld behind the valve cover? Should I flatten it out against the firewall?

 

Welds look great! No grinding there!

 

Thank you for noticing! I'm glad you are checking out my body drop project. I have checked out your ride in MT magazine and on their website and it is an amazing truck! It is inspiring for sure. A very quality build in every aspect!

 

won't the pinch weld clear once you drop the motor mounts?

 

Ahhh right. Forgot about that. It will just clear as it is, but it will be basically right on top of the valve cover but I will just do it that way for now. Thanks.

 

Very nice work on the z...looks very clean and stock..good work. I would just hammer the pinch flat like you were saying to get clearance.

 

Thanks still2hi! I might do that with the pinch weld but the motor mount thing might take care of the problem.

I am thinking while I have the truck in the shop I should just go ahead and drop the motor mounts 1.5". Otherwise it is going to be tight on clearance to the firewall when I pull this thing out of the shop. I have a pretty good idea how I am going to do the mounts, but the steering drag link is a bit of a problem. I am wondering if I can alter my steering arm and my idler arm a bit so they drop 1". I am thinking heat them up and bend them in two places on each arm so they have a ~ shape to them. I know some people are really weary of modifying these parts, but I have seen similar parts on 4x4s successfully welded on to add bracing so it would seem the metal would be good for forging a bit. I could add bracing the arm to strengthen it too. Anyone seen it done or have any advice about this?

I am going to alter the crossmember that goes under the engine so it drops down 1" too. Hopefully this will mean the stock oil pan will be ok.

 

So I was just looking at it and I don't even think that would work. Looks like the tie rod end would hit the nut on the lower control arm (there is maybe a 1/2" that could be gained there before the rod end would hit). So I guess I might be stuck modifying the oil pan?

 

I am searching for info on this and I see stuff about sectioning the oil pan and drag link, but I can't find any specific info yet. I have a little over an inch between the oil pan and the drag link right now so I can probably get by with just sectioning one or the other assuming I can take a good .75" out of the oilpan and still clear the bearing caps and rods and all. I am curious about sectioning the drag link though. I wonder how it is done.

 

I've never done any of this personally, but I've read lots and lots of articles. I've never seen anyone modify that crossmember and steering linkages to clear the oil pan. It's always been vice versa. I know you have to shorten the pickup tube and relocate your drain plug, but that sounds alot easier and safer than the alternative. Here's a link to the pan Seth builds.

http://shop.twistedminis.com/product.sc?categoryId=2&productId=12

 

Thanks for the link. I checked it out and just judging by the pic it looks like it is sectioned on the wrong side. The deep side of my pan doesn't concern me so much. I can deal with the crossmember under there without too much trouble, but the shallow side of the pan is only about 1" from the draglink. I don't know how much you can even section this side without the pan hitting the bearing caps. I must be missing something. Maybe that pan of Seths is shallower on the shallow side than mine, but it seems like you can see where he sectioned it just on the one area of the deep part.

 

looks good

 

Progress progress progress, you are getting far! wish i had access to a welder now...