Types of bags

Discussion in 'Suspension/Chassis' started by ChickenTaco, Jun 24, 2011.

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  1. ChickenTaco

    ChickenTaco Enthusiast

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    I can't just put a plate on the arm, and put another plate at an angle on the frame with gussets above it? I've never heard of having to put it in a cup.
     
    ChickenTaco, Jun 24, 2011
    #21
  2. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

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    No, you don't need a full cup. You will need a regular bag plate for the front, but by pushing the frame back where the bag sits, you can get the larger diameter bag in place.

    I've never heard of any toyota front suspension getting 18" of travel. Except maybe a long arm setup for a prerunner.

    Also, if you push the bag in towards the frame, you get less leverage, requiring more pressure to get the same lift.

    My setup from Cando Specialties gets about 11-12" of wheel travel with the RE 6's, I'm not sure you could get more without custom arms and spherical ball joints and misalignment bushings.
     
    Litneon, Jun 24, 2011
    #22
  3. TRUCK ACTION

    TRUCK ACTION Grand Toyotaholic

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    TRUCK ACTION, Jun 24, 2011
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  4. jeremystephens

    jeremystephens Enthusiast

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    sorry 16" (measuring fender from ground) is lock out and you get better leverage by cupping and more lift with less psi... same way cando did anti hack project..
     
    jeremystephens, Jun 24, 2011
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  5. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Yes, but Anti-hack used the RE 7 like I suggested earlier which is why it requires less pressure. I thought you meant less pressure with the same size bag.

    Even so, the center of the Anti-hack's RE-7 is the same as the RE-6 would be. The frame is only clearanced to allow the extra diameter of the RE-7, so technically there isn't more leverage, just more surface area inside the bag, resulting in more lift with less pressure.

    I followed the Anti-hack build with input from Steve the whole way through my build. Jeremystephens, I'd like to see pics of measurements and setups, I'll start a new thread for that... I can't figure out how to get that much lift from my setup, I blew a bag trying.
     
    Litneon, Jun 24, 2011
    #25
  6. Robert m

    Robert m Addict

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    there is no way you are getting 16'' or 18'' of travel using stock balljoints and arms. the max suspension travel you can get is between 10'' and 11'' and that pushing it, and you will be maxing out the balljoints to the failure point.
    you might be getting 16'' of lift but thats still a lot for any bag setup on the front.
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2011
    Robert m, Jun 25, 2011
    #26
  7. ChickenTaco

    ChickenTaco Enthusiast

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    ChickenTaco, Jun 25, 2011
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  8. ChickenTaco

    ChickenTaco Enthusiast

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    ChickenTaco, Jun 25, 2011
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  9. ChickenTaco

    ChickenTaco Enthusiast

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    After some more research I just realized what you meant when you said "pocket" the frame. You confused me when you said cup it.
     
    ChickenTaco, Jun 25, 2011
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  10. yota4life

    yota4life Grand Toyotaholic

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    You could do those pictured above. But they are suggesting a different route which will give you more benefits. Like less psi to lift to ride height an more lift.
     
    yota4life, Jun 25, 2011
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  11. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Those setups are fine. I would suggest however to set the upper bag plate to sit a bit more parellel to the lower plate at ride height. While it looks nice to have a perfectly collapsed bag when laid out, the side load on that bag is enormous.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    You can see that the bag is not perfectly compressed flat. That's ok, it saves a lot of stress on the bag the rest of the time.

    Check out Steve NIELSEN Photos | Myspace for tons more pics...

    I used the pictorial to build my front suspension.
     
    Litneon, Jun 25, 2011
    #31
  12. ChickenTaco

    ChickenTaco Enthusiast

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    I was actually looking at the Anti-hack build photos last night. Amazing work. I will most likely be using that as referrance and building off exactly how they did it. I love the look at everything. Only thing that will be different is the rear set up.
     
    ChickenTaco, Jun 25, 2011
    #32
  13. planemos

    planemos Toyotaholic

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    I have those control arms. Hey I was wondering... You know the castle nut on the bottom ball joint in that picture? Well I have to run a spacer between the spindle and the nut. Is that what everyone does? It seems kinda bad so is there a better way to do it? Even in that pic it looks like there is a washer in there...
     
    planemos, Jun 25, 2011
    #33
  14. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Nope, the spacers are normal. As long as the nut is tight with a cotter pin installed, everything's Ok.
     
    Litneon, Jun 25, 2011
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  15. ChickenTaco

    ChickenTaco Enthusiast

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    Here are some more ideas that I found of the upper control arms and lowers. I honestly can't afford tubed arms like the anti-hack build.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    ChickenTaco, Jun 25, 2011
    #35
  16. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Yep, setups like that will work. Honestly don't know why you'd plate the underside of the uppers though.
     
    Litneon, Jun 25, 2011
    #36
  17. ChickenTaco

    ChickenTaco Enthusiast

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    He had to trim it up to clear the bag. The upper arm kept hitting the upper bag plate. Plus it looks alot nicer boxed in IMO.
     
    ChickenTaco, Jun 25, 2011
    #37
  18. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Oh, good call.
     
    Litneon, Jun 25, 2011
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  19. ChickenTaco

    ChickenTaco Enthusiast

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    Does an upper bj flip even do anything or would I be waisting my time?
     
    ChickenTaco, Jun 25, 2011
    #39
  20. planemos

    planemos Toyotaholic

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    It does lower your truck a bit. Sometimes people cut the end with the bj and bend it down a bit then weld it back up. Because it is hard to get it to lay out on big rims.
     
    planemos, Jun 25, 2011
    #40
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